רסיפה, אולינדה ופורטו דה גלינס

דרך סיוטית במיוחד עברה עליי בדרכי לרסיפה. האוטובוס מאיטה קרה היה צפוף וישן, שכמובן והמזגן בו לא עבד. הדרך היחידה להתקרר הייתה לפתוח את החלון ולחטוף את הרוח החמה לפרצוף. נסיעה של שש שעות עד לבום דיספאצ׳ו שנראתה כאילו לא נגמרת. בבום דיספאצ׳ו מיהרתי לקנות כרטיס אל המעבורת לצידו השני של המפרץ, אל סלבדור. המעבורת יצאה בזמן, אך משך ההפלגה היה ארוך בהרבה ממה שציפיתי. מעבורת עצומה עם שתי קומות של מכוניות ומקום לעוד מאות נוסעים. כשהגעתי לרציף בסלבדור כבר לא נותר לי הרבה זמן, עוד שעה ורבע האוטובוס שלי לרסיפה כבר יוצא. לקחתי את המונית הראשונה שראיתי ויצאתי לכיוון הטרמינל. פקקי תנועה עצומים כיאה לעיר בסדרי גודל של סלבדור. מרחק של שמונה קילומטר עד לטרמינל לקח שעה של נסיעה. לפחות נהג המונית היה סופר נחמד, הרגיע אותי ודיבר איתי על המצב ועל סלבדור. הופתעתי מאוד לטובה שהצלחתי ממש לנהל איתו שיחה ולהבין את תשובותיו, על אף שאני דיברתי עימו בספרדית והוא בפורטוגזית. הגעתי לטרמינל בדקה ה-90 כרגיל והצלחתי לעלות על האוטובוס. נסיעה של 15 שעות לרסיפה. האוטובוס היה גדול ומרווח, הצלחתי לישון כמעט כל הדרך. להפתעתי הרבה גם באוטובוס הזה היו ישראלים, שהיו בדרכם להופעה של מארון 5 שלמחרת. אותי זה פחות עניין. הגעתי בשעות הבוקר המאוחרות אל הטרמינל המרכזי של רסיפה. עוד עיר עצומה של מיליוני אנשים. הטרמינל מרוחק מאוד מהעיר עצמה ולכן נדרשתי לקחת את הרכבת על מנת להגיע למרכז העיר. העיר עצמה מאוד אפורה. מלאה בבניינים גבוהים שנראים כאילו קפאו בזמן אי שם בשנות התשעים. כל זה על רקע גשרים גדולים המחברים בין שני האיים והיבשת המרכיבים ביחד את העיר. הרחובות מלוכלכים ומלאים גרפיטי. לא מקום מאוד נעים. ההוסטל שהזמנתי היה ממש במרכזה של רסיפה העתיקה, על האי ״איליה דה רסיפה״. המקום שבו נחגג הקרנבל בעיר, שהותיר שלטי רחוב ודוכנים רבים עדיין במקום. המקום היחיד שאיכשהו יפה ונחמד ברסיפה, עם בתים צבעוניים ומטופחים. בדרך להוסטל הבנתי שגם קמילה נמצאת בעיר, לאחר שהגיעה בטיסה אתמול בערב. קבענו לצאת ולטייל באולינדה הצמודה לרסיפה. המיטה והחדר שלי בהוסטל עדיין לא היו מוכנים ולכן השארתי את כל הציוד באחסון וחיכיתי לקמילה שתגיע אליי להוסטל. עלינו על אובר ונסענו כעשרים דקות צפונה אל אולינדה. אולינדה היא עיירה קולוניאלית מקסימה, ללא כל הלחץ ואווירת העיר של רסיפה. היא בנויה מבתים עתיקים, משומרים וצבעוניים. מזכיר במעט את הרובע העתיק של סלבדור. במקום כנסיות ומנזרים רבים ויפים. המקום היה מושבה פורטוגזית חשובה שאף היוותה את בירתה השנייה של ברזיל בשלב כלשהו. האובר הוריד אותנו בחלקה העליון של אולינדה. מקום ממנו השקפנו בתצפית על כל העיירה, הים שמתחתיה ובנייניה הגבוהים של רסיפה הנראים באופק. טיילנו ברגל בסמטאותיה הצבעוניות של אולינדה. גם כאן עדיין נותרו קישוטים רבים מהקרנבל, ובעיקר סרטים מנצנצים וענקיים התלויים מעל הרחובות. לא באמת ידענו לאן אנחנו הולכים, סתם שוטטנו לנו. ראינו שישנו מנזר יפה והחלטנו לעלות אליו. במקרה הגענו לשער האחורי שלו שהיה פתוח. העובדה שהתחיל גשם זלעפות עודדה אותנו אף יותר לא לחשוב פעמיים ופשוט להיכנס. הסתתרנו מתחת לגג בחצר המנזר וחיכינו שהגשם יפסק. המשכנו לשוטט בחצר ובגן עד שלפתע השומר קלט אותנו וקרא לנו שנגיע אליו. ציפיתי שיכעס עלינו אך לשמחתי הוא פשוט מאוד הופתע שהצלחנו להיכנס ושאל מאיפה לעזאזל חדרנו למקום. הוא הראה לנו גם את המקום הנכון, הכנסייה של המנזר וכן את הדרך בחזרה למרכז אולינדה. על תקרת הכנסייה הופיע סמל מוזר שהיה נראה אימפריאליסטי למדי. לא הצלחנו לזהות למה הוא שייך. יצאנו מהמנזר והלכנו אל מרכז העיר העתיקה. אכלנו צהריים במסעדה מקומית, בה היה האוכל הטוב ביותר שאכלתי בברזיל בפער. האופן שבו הזמנו את המנות היה מצחיק. נעמדנו מול שלט התפריט הכתוב בגיר, ללא שום יכולת להבין מהו כל דבר. המלצר לא דיבר מילה באנגלית ולכן כל ההתנהלות הייתה קצת קשה ועירבה ציורים על נייר ותנועות ידיים. לבסוף קיבלנו מנות מעולות. כמובן שאחרי אוכל כל כך טוב היינו חייבים אסאי לקינוח. חתמנו את ביקורינו באולינדה במוזיאון הבובות של העיר. הקרנבל באולינדה מפורסם בבובות הענק שהם מכינים וצועדים איתם ברחובות העיר. לכל בובה יש סיפור ורקע אישי. מוזיאון ביזארי ביותר עם עשרות בובות בכל הגדלים תלויות מהקירות. קיבלנו הזדמנות להחזיק את הבובות ואף לימדו אותנו ריקוד מסורתי של הקרנבל באולינדה. ריקוד שמאוד הביך את קמילה. כדי להוסיף לסיטואציה המצחיקה, ברגע שיצאנו מהמוזיאון הותקפנו ע״י שני גיטריסטים מבוגרים ששרו את המתרחש בסיטואציה ״הם לא מדברים פורטוגזית, אמרתי ככה והיא ככה וכו׳״ מצחיק ביותר. חזרנו באובר לרסיפה. ליוויתי את קמילה מעט ברחוב שבו מכרו מוצרי חשמל. רסיפה היא אחת הערים המסוכנות בברזיל וממש לא התחשק לי שהיא תלך שם לבד. אני ניצלתי את הזמן לקנות אוזניות שהתבררו כלא מתאימות לאייפון. אוף. לבסוף נפרדנו וחזרתי אל ההוסטל שלי. כשהתכוונתי לקחת את חפציי ולהעלות אותם לחדר פגשתי שתי ישראליות שזה עתה הגיעו להוסטל. הופתעתי לפגוש עוד ישראלים. גם שתיהן הגיעו לטובת ההופעה שלמחרת. בערב יצאנו שלושתינו אל הקניון שבאי, שהיה מת כמעט לחלוטין. לעומתו, בצידו השני של הכביש הייתה חנות ספרים ענקית, דו קומתית ומגניבה ביותר. חנות ששילבה בתוכה בית קפה, חנות יינות, חנות מוסיקה ועוד. הכל בסגנון סופר מגניב. בזבזנו שם כחצי שעה לעבור בין המדורים השונים. בדרך חזור טיילנו מעט באי והגענו ממש עד לקצהו. ראינו שעדיין מפרקים את במות הקרנבל. לא היה יותר מידי מה לעשות ולכן חזרנו להוסטל. חום אימים גם עכשיו, דבר לא הגיוני.
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