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התעוררנו בקמפינג הנחמד והתחלנו בנוהל הבוקר הרגיל. כמה שאנחנו מתורגלים כבר בהכנת הסנדוויצ׳ים וקיפול האוהל בבוקר. הלכנו אל היציאה מהיישוב והתחלנו במלאכת הטרמפים. מאוד פחדנו מהטרמפ הזה. ל״לה חונטה״ יצא שם מאוד רע מבחינת טרמפים. שמענו סיפורים על אנשים שנתקעו במקום שעות ארוכות. קיווינו לנצח את הסטטיסטיקה, ובאמת לאחר לא הרבה זמן עצר לידינו רכב מסחרי והזמין אותנו לעלות. היה ברשותו רק מקום אחד פנוי ולכן אני נקראתי אל הדגל והתיישבתי בחלקו האחורי של הרכב, בין מטפי כיבוי אש רבים. גם הפעם הנהג היה סופר נחמד אלינו והתעניין מאוד בסיפורי המסע שלנו והתיאורים אודות ישראל. הנהג הוא משווק מטפים שעובר בין הישובים השונים לאורך הדרך. עצרנו בתצפית יפה לאורך הכביש והמשכנו עוד נסיעה של כחצי שעה. ירדנו בכפר סנטה לוסיה. הכפר שממנו מתפצל הכביש אשר מגיע לפוטלאפו. סנטה לוסיה הוא כפר שנפגע קשה מאוד במפולת אדמה שפקדה את האזור לפני כמה שנים. אפשר לראות בבירור היכן המפולת פגעה, שכן חצי מהכפר פשוט נמחק. מאות אנשים נהרגו והדבר מורגש באווירה שבמקום. חיכינו בכניסה אל הכביש במשך דקות ארוכות. מעט מאוד מכוניות עברו. עצר לידינו אופנוען צרפתי בכדי לנוח מעט אחרי כמה שעות קשות של נסיעה. לבסוף עצר לידינו ג׳יפ עמוס בצ׳יליאנים. הגי׳יפ היה מפוצץ מאוד ולכן הופתעתי שהם בכלל מציעים לקחת אותנו, אבל מי אנחנו שנתנגד. הצלחנו איכשהו להכניס את כל הציוד ואותנו. בג׳יפ היו משפחה מסנטיאגו שנסעו לחופש בפוטלאפו. גם הם היו מאוד נחמדים ולימדו אותנו מנהגים צ׳יליאנים, סלנג צ׳יליאני ושירי כדורגל של קבוצתם האהובה קולו קולו מסנטיאגו. הגענו לפוטלאפו בשעות הצהריים, מצאנו במהרה קמפינג ופרסנו את ציודינו. מיד הלכנו לברר ולהזמין רפטינג למחר. הרפטינג של פוטלאפו נחשב (בצדק) לאחד הטובים בעולם ומדורג שני אחרי נהר הזמבזי באפריקה. לאחר שהזמנו את הרפטינג התפצלנו, אני הלכתי לחדש את חבילת הגלישה של הטלפון ולהסתובב בעיירה בעוד אור הלך לנסות למצוא חדר כושר. בעיניי פוטלאפו היא העיירה הנחמדה ביותר שעברנו בה בקרטרה. הכיכר המרכזית הייתה הומה באדם ובילדים ששיחקו. הרחובות שקטים ומסודרים וכל המקום מוקף בהרים מושלגים. מקום מקסים. כל כך אהבתי את המקום שהטיול הקצר שעשיתי בעיירה הפך לכמעט שעתיים שבהם ראיתי את הנהר והאגם שלצד העיירה. בישלנו לנו ארוחת ערב נחמדה בקמפינג וחיסלנו את היין שנשאר מאתמול. היה יום מצוין.
למחרת השכמתי והתחלתי לקפל את האוהל ולארגן את הציוד. רציתי לקפל הכל כבר לפני שנצא אל הרפטינג, כך שאוכל לצמצם את הזמן ולצאת לתפוס טרמפים מיד אחרי שנחזור. יצאנו אל סוכנות הרפטינג ואפילו הצלחנו להקדים. מיד גילינו שכמעט כל האנשים שמצטרפים אלינו אל השייט הם גם ישראלים. הפעם חבורה נחמדה יותר מהישראלים של הוואן. יצאנו לדרך ונסענו כארבעים וחמש דקות עד למסעדה שבה קיבלנו את כל בגדי הרפטינג. חליפה רטובה, בוטיז, חליפת הצלה, ז׳אקט וקסדה. ציוד טוב ואיכותי. המשכנו עוד מספר דקות והגענו לנהר. המדריך שלנו, סנטיאגו, עבר על כל הדגשים והיה מאוד מקצועי. בכל זאת, אנחנו הולכים לעבור אשדים בדרגה חמש. לקחתי את הטלפון איתי בשקית האטומה למים וקיוויתי לטוב. בראפט שלנו היו אותי ואת אור, ארבעת הישראלים הנוספים, שני צ׳יליאנים וסנטיאגו. שני הצ׳יליאנים לא ממש הבינו אנגלית ולכן לא קלטו את הוראותיו של סנטיאגו. דבר שהוביל לכך שהם תמיד היו לא מתואמים. אנחנו פיצינו על כך והצלחנו לבצע את ההוראות בצורה טובה. הצטרפו אלינו לרפטינג גם שתי רפסודות וקיאק אישי כאמצעי בטיחות לכל מקרה. יצאנו לדרך וכבר על האשדים הראשונים מבינים שזו לא בדיחה. פחד אלוהים, גלים עצומים, זרמים ומערבולות. איכשהו ובאופן לא ברור הראפט שלנו פשוט דילג מעליהם ללא מאמץ תוך שהוא דואג להרטיב אותנו כהוגן. סנטיאגו הצליח לנווט אותנו במקומות הנכונים של האשדים וכך הצלחנו לעבור אותם בצורה מעולה. הפעם אף אחד לא עף למים. על חלק מהאשדים אפשר לראות בבירור שהם רציניים, והגלים שאותם נדרשים לעבור הם של כמה מטרים. לא סתם דרגה חמש. לקראת סוף השייט סנטיאגו אמר לנו שאת האשדים הבאים נעשה בשחייה. לא ממש הבנו למה הוא מתכוון עד שהתחיל לצעוק עלינו לקפוץ מהראפט. היה נחמד ביותר ובייחוד שלאחר מכן עלינו לסלע גבוה שממנו קפצנו אל הנהר הקר. תענוג. לחוסר מזלינו הראפטינג היה קצר יחסית, אך מאוד אינטנסיבי. החזירו אותנו אל המסעדה, החלפנו בגדים וקיבלנו ארוחה קלה לסיום. היה מוצלח בסך הכל. כשחזרנו לפוטלאפו אור ואני לקחנו את החפצים ונפרדנו סופית. הוא המשיך לברילוצ׳ה שבארגנטינה בעוד אני בחזרה לקרטרה ולכיוון העיירה צ׳אייטן. לא ברור איך הזמן ביחד עבר כל כך מהר. טיילנו ביחד כמעט שבוע. הלכתי אל היציאה מהעיירה והתחלתי במלאכת הטרמפים. חיכיתי כשעה וחצי עד שלבסוף עצר לי טנדר מתפרק שבתוכו שלושה קיאקריסטים: אמריקאי, קנדי ודנית. מסתבר שבאזור פוטלאפו ישנה סצנה שלמה של מערביים חובבי קיאקינג ורפטינג שמגיעים לאזור ושוהים במקום כמה חודשים. כאלו בדיוק היו החבר׳ה. הם התריעו לי שבכוונתם לנסוע אל חלק בנהר שבאמצע הדרך אך מבחינתי כל התקדמות בכיוון מועילה. לאורך הדרך רכבים רבים שחלפו על פנינו אותתו לנו עם האורות. לא הבנו מה הסיבה לכך. לאחר כחצי שעה של נסיעה הבנו סופסוף על מה המהומה. מפולת אדמה גדולה חסמה לחלוטין את הכביש. שוטרים מבולבלים עמדו במקום ומנעו מכולם להתקרב. הבנו שיעברו עוד יומיים או שלושה עד שהדרך תיפתח, בעיה. החלטנו לרדת אל גדת הנהר שזרם לצד הכביש ולנסות לחצות את החסימה ברגל, אך גם שם היו שוטרים שחסמו אותנו. כבר התחלתי לחשוב כיצד לסדר את תוכניותיי, האם לשונות כיוון ולנסוע לארגנטינה? אולי לחכות יומיים בעיירה? אך בעודי חושב מה לעשות עבר בנהר על קיאק – רפסודה אחד מהקיאקרים שהחבר׳ה שלקחו אותי הכירו. בחור פרואני שהציע בשמחה לקחת אותנו טרמפ לצד השני של החסימה. טרמפ על הנהר, דבר כזה עוד לא היה. עלינו ארבעתינו ועברנו לצידה השני של החסימה. מחזה די סוריאליסטי לראות את כולנו על רפסודה קטנה עוברים על הנהר עם כל החפצים. ממש כמו פליטים. בצידה השני של החסימה הייתה גם התקהלות של אנשים שניסו להבין מה לעשות וכמו כן אנשים רבים שיוצאים מאותה נקודה לתחילת רפטינג. הרבה מכוניות שהגיעו לשם והבינו שאין מעבר הסתובבו והתחילו לחזור. הודתי לקיאקריסטים והצלחתי לתפוס טרמפ עם אחת המכוניות שהסתובבו. בלאגן שלם נוצר בגלל החסימה. נאלצתי לרדת בצומת באמצע הדרך ולתפוס משם עוד טרמפ בחזרה אל סנטה לוסיה. לא עברו יותר מחמש עשרה שניות וכבר עצר לי הטרמפ האחרון להיום אל היישוב צ׳אייטן. איזה מזל מדהים. לא ייאמן שהצלחתי לעבור את החסימה, ועוד דרך הנהר! מזג האוויר השתנה כעת לרעה והתחיל להמטיר גשם זלעפות. מהירידה מהטרמפ ועד הקמפינג נאלצתי ללכת ולספוג את הטיפות. הקמתי את האוהל יחסית במהרה וזהו, סופסוף קצת הפוגה מהיום העמוס. בקמפינג פגשתי צ׳יליאנים מאוד נחמדים. דיברתי איתם על המסלול שלי ועל הטיול באופן כללי. הם דיברו אנגלית מצוינת ולכן עזרו לי מאוד כשתיקנו אותי על הדיבור בספרדית.
ביום שלמחרת תכננתי כבר לעזוב את צ׳אייטן ולעלות על מעבורת אל האי צ׳ילואה, אך לחוסר מזלי באותו יום לא הייתה הפלגה. נאלצתי בעל כורחי להישאר עוד יום במקום. מזג האוויר עדיין היה גשום ומעונן, דבר אשר סיכל את תוכניותיי ללכת ולטפס על הר הגעש צ׳אייטן שבקרבת מקום. על כן, ניצלתי את היום למנוחה ואחר הצהריים לשיטוט בעיירה הנחמדה. בשעות השפל, הים מתרחק מאות מטרים מהעיירה ויוצר חוף ענק. טיילתי לי על החול הנעים ובין בתי העיירה היפים. באחד הרחובות חנה אוטובוס שהומר לסוכנות טיולים ומסעדה. רעיון ממש מגניב. באופן כללי העיירה לא הייתה אפרורית כמו שחשבתי ואופיינה בחנויות בוטיק נחמדות ובהרים ירוקים שמידי פעם הציצו מבעד לעננים.
למחרת בבוקר התעוררתי מאוד מוקדם. היה עליי לקפל את כל הציוד והאוהל ולהגיע אל סוכנות הנסיעות כבר בשבע. עמדתי יפה במשימה ועליתי על המעבורת. זהו זה, בזאת סיימתי את המסע המטורף בקרטרה. מסע שנמשך כמעט 1200 ק״מ. וואו. התחנה הבאה שלי, כפר הדייגים קייון שבאי צ׳ילואה.

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