האי צ’ילואה

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ופתאום וואו, עיר של ממש. כבר הרבה מאוד זמן לא ראיתי כזו ציוויליזציה. אנשים וחנויות רבות ברחוב, מכוניות והמולה. נחמד. הרחוב היה בנוי כולו מבתי עץ צבעוניים. נראה כאילו הם עושים בכוונה שכל בית יהיה בצבעים ובעיצוב שונה לחלוטין משכנו. הגעתי לכיכר המרכזית של העיר וראיתי את כנסיית העץ המפורסמת. כנסייה יפה הצבועה בצהוב בעוד שצריחיה סגולים. מיוחד ללא ספק. ההוסטל שלי היה ממש בקרבת הכיכר והתברר כביתי ונחמד ביותר. שאבתי מהמתנדבת בהוסטל את כל פרטי המידע החשובים לגבי המקום ויצאתי להסתובב בעיר. על אף שהעיר גדולה יחסית עדיין נשמרת בה אווירת כפריות ודייג. לאורך הים נבנו דוכנים ובתי עץ מיוחדים. שוק של ממש שהזכיר במספר מובנים את פרו, עם דגים, פירות ים, בגדים מצמר אלפקה וחפצי נוי שגולפו מעץ. ראיתי גם את בתי העץ המפורסמים של קסטרו, הנמצאים לאורך קו החוף ויושבים על רגליים גבוהות מעל המים הכחולים. הערב בהוסטל היה נחמד ביותר, בו פגשתי זוג ברזילאים טיפוסיים ולבביים שקצת סידרו לי את הראש לגבי ברזיל. ביום שלמחרת יצאתי מוקדם אל טרמינל האוטובוסים ונסעתי אל שמורת הטבע צ׳ילואה שממוקמת בצידו המערבי של האי. נסיעה של כשעה וחצי, שבה שוב יוצאים מהציוויליזציה ונכנסים אל הגבעות הירוקות של האי. בסוף הדרך ישנו ישוב קטנטן בשם קוקאו שבו נמצאת הכניסה לפארק. צ׳ילואה הוא המקום הגשום ביותר בצ׳ילה, דבר היוצר בפארק מיקרואקלים מיוחד עם צמחייה שלא ניתן לראות בשום מקום אחר. במקום גדלו צמחים מיוחדים עם עלים עצומים. הרבה יותר גדולים ממני. בחיים לא ראיתי דבר כזה. זהו עוד יער גשם קר, רק שהפעם זהו מקום עם הרבה הרבה יותר גשם. בתוך הפארק נבנו מסלולי הליכה קצרים על גשרי עץ המכניסים אותך ללב יערות הגשם. הרגשה של פארק היורה. עוד רגע קופץ עליך דינוזאור. צמחים ואווירה שמרגישים מאוד פרהיסטורים. מהפארק המשכתי לעוד נסיעת אוטובוס אל אחד המקומות האייקונים ביותר בצ׳ילואה הנמצא כמה קילומטרים בודדים משם: מוולה דה לאס אלמאס. חצי אי מצוקי הבולט אל תוך הים אשר בקצהו נבנה גשר אל האינסוף, בהשראת האגדות והמיתולוגיות של האי. לאחר הליכה של כשני קילומטרים בשביל יפה ומיוער הגעתי אל תור בלתי נתפס של תיירים שעמדו וחיכו במקום כדי לצלם את התמונה המושלמת על הגשר. המתנה של לפחות שעה. בחיים לא ראיתי מחזה כל כך מוזר. טבע ונוף פראי וכל כך מיוחד, שאף אחד לא מתייחס אליו משום שעומדים בתור לתמונה מפגרת על הגשר שנראה כמו רמפה משודרגת. אני כמובן לא עמדתי בתור והייתי עסוק בלחקור את מצוקי האבן והגלים המתנפצים עליהם. האנשים שהגיעו למקום רק בשביל לצלם את התמונה כל כך הפתיעו אותי. אנשים מבוגרים מאוד שבקושי הולכים וכן אנשים שמנים שהתקשו בכל צעד בשביל, שממש לא היה פשוט להליכה. כנראה ששום דבר לא יכול לעצור את כוחה של תמונה יפה ומפורסמת באינסטגרם או בפייסבוק. חזרתי בשביל היפה אל תחנת האוטובוס רק בכדי לגלות שהאוטובוס שלי יוצא בחזרה רק בעוד שעה וחצי. החלטתי לנסות את מזלי בטרמפים, וכבר בטרמפ הראשון עצרה מכונית עם שלושה תיירים סינים ששמחו אפילו לקחת אותי כמעט עד ההוסטל שלי בקסטרו. אחד הסינים ידע קצת אנגלית ולכן הצלחנו לתקשר. באופן מוזר התיירת הסינית שהייתה שם השמיעה לי שיר של אסתר עופרים מהטלפון שלה, כדי להשמיע לי זמר ישראלי. מעט מאוד ישראלים מכירים את אסתר עופרים, אז איך לעזאזל סינית שמעה עליה. היה זה תזמון מושלם לתפוס טרמפ עם תיירים סינים, בדיוק בעת התפרצות מגפת הקורונה. לבסוף הגעתי ומשום שהצלחתי להגיע לקסטרו מוקדם החלטתי לא לבזבז זמן ולנסוע כבר באותו יום לאנקוד שבצפון האי. לקחתי את חפציי מההוסטל והצלחתי לעלות על המיניבוס האחרון שיצא באותו היום. הגעתי לאנקוד, ירדתי מהמיניבוס וכשתי דקות מאוחר יותר הבנתי ששכחתי את כובע הצמר שלי עליו. רצתי למקום אך המיניבוס כבר לא היה שם. רגע של משבר אמיתי, הכובע מלווה אותי כבר עשר שנים ונקנה בטיול המשפחתי בנורווגיה. לא הייתי מוכן לוותר, הלכתי ודיברתי עם האינפורמיישן בכדי לנסות ולהבין לאן יכול להיות שהמיניבוס נסע מכאן. אף אחד לא יכול היה לספק לי תשובה. החלטתי שהסיכוי הטוב ביותר שלי הוא להגיע לטרמינל על הבוקר ולקוות שאמצא את הכובע במיניבוס הראשון לקסטרו. מבצע כובע. נסעתי במונית לקמפינג והקמתי את האוהל. כבר היה חושך והדבר היחיד שחשבתי עליו היה הכובע. ממש עצוב. יצאתי לסיבוב קצר בעיר, אכלתי ארוחת ערב ושבתי אל האוהל שלי שספג רוחות עזות וגשם. התעוררתי בארבע בבוקר, התארגנתי במהרה ויצאתי ברגל אל הטרמינל. עדיין היה חושך בחוץ אך הייתי נחוש להשיב את הכובע. מבצע כובע יצא לדרך. הגעתי לטרמינל וחיכיתי. כמעט אף אחד לא מספיק משוגע להגיע למקום בשעות כאלו. לאט לאט אנשים התחילו להגיע. לפתע המיניבוס הגיע לתחנה. מיד זיהיתי שזהו אינו אותו אחד. איזו תחושה רעה, בהחלט רגע של משבר. חיכיתי גם לשני הבאים אחריו והבנתי שהסיפור אבוד. הכובע לא ישוב אליי יותר. חזרתי אל הקמפינג עצוב והשלמתי כמה שעות שינה לפני שקיבלתי את הציוד ויצאתי לחקור את העיר. הלכתי תחילה אל מבצר סן אנטוניו. נקודה שולטת הנמצאת בקצה מצוק ומשקיפה אל הים. זהו בעצם המעוז האחרון שהספרדים שלטו בו לפני שהובסו לחלוטין וגורשו מצ׳ילה במלחמת בעצמאות הצ׳יליאנית. המשכתי להסתובב בעיר שהתגלתה כחביבה ביותר. אווירה של עיר דייג. מכל מקום אפשר לראות את הים והספינות העוגנות לצד החוף. בתי עץ צבעוניים וטיפוסים לצ׳ילואה. הלכתי לאורך הטיילת, עברתי בכיכר המרכזית ועצרתי במסעדה מקומית בשוק כדי לטעום את המאכל המקומי והטיפוסי לצ׳ילואה – קוראנטו. קערה ענקית מפוצצת בצדפות, נקניקים, עוף, חזיר וכל בשר אפשרי. לפחות קילו בשר יש במנה הזו. הצלחתי להתגבר עליה בכוחות עצמי אך הרגשתי שאני עומד להתפוצץ בסיומה. לא רע. לאחר האוכל הספקתי גם לבקר בעוד כנסיית עץ טיפוסית לצ׳ילואה שהפכה למוזיאון כנסיות העץ. היו שם דגמים של כל הכנסיות המיוחדות והצבעוניות הפזורות בכל האי והסברים עליהן. מסתר שממש יש תיירים שמגיעים לצ׳ילואה על מנת לבקר בכל הכנסיות. מוזרים. לאחר הביקור נאלצתי לחזור לקמפינג, לקחת את חפציי ולהגיע לטרמינל בחזרה. בעל הקמפינג הנחמד נתן לי טרמפ כך שזה היה פשוט. הביקור בצ׳ילואה היה קצר ונתן הרגשה כפרית ומקומית אמיתית. כזה שלא קיבלתי בשביל התיירים הקלאסי של הקרטרה. זהו זה, עליתי על האוטובוס והתחנה הבאה, העיר פורטו מונט.

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