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בדרך לאל צ׳אלטן האוטובוס עצר בסוג של מלון/ פונדק דרכים הזוי. מקום באמצע הכלום, לצד נהר תכלת וקפוא ורוחות מקפיאות שגרמו גם לחזקים ביותר מאיתנו לא לשהות בחוץ יותר מכמה שניות. המשכנו בדרך והגענו לאל צ׳אלטן לאחר כשלוש שעות. לא היה לי מושג היכן שקד ועידו התמקמו להם וגם לא הייתה קליטה כלל ביישוב. ניסיתי למצוא ווייפיי ובמקרה שקד עבר במקום וראה אותי. הלכתי אל הקמפינג שלהם והתמקמתי שם. בזמן שהם הלכו לאינטרנט החלטתי לא לבזבז את הזמן וללמוד את המקום והאטרקציות שבו. בעודי יושב באינטרנט של הקמפינג זיהיתי את אופיר שטייל איתי באלסקה, בהוואיוואש ובמנדוזה. וואו, פעם רביעית שנפגשים בטיול, מטורף. אופיר הגיע לקמפינג פשוט בכדי לבדוק את מחיריו ושירותיו, ביחד עם אמנון, ישראלי אמריקאי שטייל ביחד איתו בשבוע האחרון. השלמנו פערים וקבענו לשבת כמו שצריך לאחר שאחזור מהטרק. לאחר שבניתי תוכנית והבנתי לאן אמשיך אחר כך, החלטתי ללכת לטיול קצר אל מפל בקרבת מקום. הצטיידתי באלפחורס מצוינים לדרך ויצאתי. בעודי חוצה את העיירה היפה הבחנתי בעדי וחבורת הישראלים הנחמדים מטורס דל פיינה, שעלו לצ׳אלטן מיד לאחר הטורוסים. שאבתי מהם קצת מידע על האזור ועל חוויותיהם. המשכתי בהליכה בדרך עפר קצרה של כארבעה וחצי קילומטרים מחוץ לעיירה, אל שמורה קטנה שבה מפל צ׳וריו דל סאלטו. אכלתי את האלפחורס שלי על סלע הנמצא ממול למפל ונהנתי מהשלווה של המקום. את הדרך חזרה לצ׳אלטן עשיתי בטרמפ שתפסתי מיד ביציאה מהמפל. זוג ארגנטינאים נחמדים שחזרו מדייג לקחו אותי בטנדר שלהם. אני מת על המפגשים הללו עם המקומיים שתמיד שמחים לעזור בחיוך ענק.
למחרת קיפלנו את חפצינו, העברנו את המוצ׳ילות למצב טרק ויצאנו ליומיים אל ההר פיץ רוי המרהיב. טיפסנו בעלייה תלולה אל מחוץ לעמק בה נמצאת אל צ׳אלטן ובהליכה מתמדת לכיוון ההר. עברנו ביערות ירוקים ומחטניים וחלפנו על פני נקודות תצפית יפיפיות בתוך היער שמהן ניתן לראות את העמקים הסובבים ובעיקר את הקרחונים וההר המטורף. לאחר כמה שעות הליכה עצרנו ליד אגם יפה. שקד מיד שלף את היוקיליילה שלו, וביחד עם עידו הקליטו שיר- ברכה לחברה משותפת שלהם. ההליכה עם שקד ועידו הייתה נחמדה מאוד, האינטראקציה ביניהם מצחיקה והשיחות סביב נושאים מעניינים. כיף שאעביר איתם את זמן הקרנבל. יום ההליכה היה קצר, בשעות הערב הגענו אל המחנה שלנו, קמפינג חינמי וקטן שממנו מתחילה העלייה אל התצפית המפורסמת על הפיץ רוי. כמובן שגם הפעם אעלה לשם בזריחה. פרסנו את האוהל ובישלנו ארוחת ערב. הרוח הייתה קרה ומקפיאה ועודדה אותנו להיכנס במהרה אל האוהל החם והמוגן.
התעוררנו בארבע בבוקר ויצאנו לדרך אל הפסגה אחרי כמה חטיפי אנרגיה. לקחנו איתנו את שקי השינה בכדי לא לקפוא בפסגה. עלייה קצרה של כשני קילומטר בסך הכל, אך מאוד תלולה. עצרנו מספר פעמים לאורך הדרך, בעיקר משום שהפנס של עידו היה חלש ביותר ובקושי איפשר לו לראות את הדרך. בכל עצירה ראינו את שובל הפנסים שמאחורינו, הצועדים גם הם במעלה ההר אל התצפית. עשינו את זה, הצלחנו להגיע כשעוד היה חושך. מהר מאוד זחלנו לתוך שקי השינה וחיכינו. נשנשנו חטיפים ושוקולדים כדי להישאר ערים ולפתע היא התחילה, הזריחה. אחד המראות היפיפיים ביותר שזכיתי לראות בטיול. חוויה מתקנת לחלוטין לזריחה בטורס דל פיינה. השמיים מאחורינו נצבעו בצבעי כתום- צהוב מטורף שהתחיל לטפס ולעשות את דרכו במעלה העמק. הר הפיץ רוי נצבעו לאיטם בצבעים דומים. פשוט לא אמיתי. צריחים ומגדלי סלע ענקיים בכתום בוהק שמתחתיהם הלגונה הכחולה. המשכנו לבהות בזריחה המדהימה. עידו החליט לטפס על סלע גבוה ולהיכנס לשק השינה עליו, אך לא חשב על כך שהסלע מחליק ובתוך שק השינה אין לו שליטה על הידיים או הרגליים. מצב תולעת. בתוך רגע שקד ואני התחלנו לשמוע את קריאות ההצילו של עידו שהתחיל להחליק מהסלע כלפי מטה. לא קלטנו את הסיטואציה ובעוד שקד מחפש סלע גדול להניח מתחת לרגליו של עידו, עידו החליק מהסלע ונפל מטה כמטר וחצי. מאוד נבהלנו אך כשגילינו שהוא בסדר צחקנו המון. המשכנו והעפלו אל פסגה נוספת שבקרבת התצפית אשר ממנה נגלה עוד אגם בצבעי כחול-תורכיז מתחת להר ולקרחון העצום העוטף אותו. התחלנו לרדת בחזרה לכיוון הקאמפ וממנו אל לאגו טורה המפורסם. יום לא פשוט עם המון קילומטרים. דיברנו כל הדרך, שמענו שירים ונהנינו מהנוף שהמשיך להיות מיוחד ויוצא דופן בכל רגע. בשעות אחר הצהריים הגענו לאגם. קרחון אדיר מימדים משתפל מהפיץ רוי ומגיע עד לקצה האגם. הקרחון משיר חתיכות קרח שצפו להן על המים ודואגות להזכיר כמה המים קרים. כמובן שההר העצום ניצב לפניך, כאילו שהונחת מהשמיים. עידו החליט שהוא נכנס למים והולך להגיע לאחד הקרחונים הצפים, החלטה אמיצה. הוא עזר אומץ ואכן עשה את זה. שקד לא היה יכול להישאר חייב והחליט שגם הוא הולך להיכנס למים. עידו הצטרף אליו שוב ושניהם הגיעו עד לאחד הקרחונים ואף טיפסו עליו, שני משוגעים. אני החלטתי להישאר בחוץ הפעם, הספיקו לי מי קרח בטיול הזה. בנוסף לצעקות של שניהם מהקור, כששניהם התחילו להשפריץ אחד על השני זה הצליח להפוך למצחיק יותר. מהאגם נותרו לנו עוד כעשרה קילומטרים של הליכה בחזרה לאל צ׳אלטן. אספנו את עצמנו ויצאנו לדרך. הפעם הדרך הייתה פחות יפה, סתם ארוכה ומתישה. ירידה ארוכה ומתונה שלא נגמרת ורוח חזקה. לא פשוט אחרי שהלכנו כבר כעשרים קילומטרים באותו יום. הגענו בחזרה לעיירה בשעות הערב ומיד מצאנו קמפינג מצוין בקרבת מקום. את הטיול החלטנו לסיים בטעם טוב עם סטייק מטורף, אחרי הכל אנחנו עדיין בארגנטינה. הלכנו אל מסעדת ״הכבשה השחורה״ ופירקנו כל אחד סטייק עין מדהים ובירה. איזה כיף!
היום שלמחרת היה יום סידורים ומנוחה לכולנו. לשקד ועידו היו המון סידורים לסגור. כרטיסי טיסה, אוטובוסים וכו. גם לי הייתה את הטיסה לסלבדור להזמין. התנחלנו בבית קפה קטן וישבנו שם במשך שעות. האלפחורס שהיה שם הוא בהפרש ניכר הטוב ביותר שאכלתי בטיול ובחיים. ישבנו שם כל כך הרבה זמן שבעלות המסעדה לא ידעו איך להוציא אותנו משם ולכן עשו את מהלך הגירוש הכי אפקטבי, כיבו את הווייפיי. בתוך כחמש דקות כבר לא היינו שם. גאוני. המשכנו את חיפושינו אחר מקומות נחמדים לשבת ומצאנו מסעדת המבורגרים טובה. התיישבנו בה והתחלנו את אותו התהליך מחדש, הפעם בליווי ארוחת צהריים. בעוד ששקד ועידו המשיכו לסדר את ענייניהם אני הלכתי לשבת עם אופיר ואמנון ולדבר איתם על המשך המסלול שלי צפונה, כביש הקרטרה אוסטרל. ישבנו בהוסטל הנחמד שלהם ולאחר מכן עברנו למסעדה שבה שידרו את משחק הפוטבול שהיה חשוב לאמנון לא להפסיד. הם זה עתה סיימו לעבור את הכביש בטרמפים, דבר שאני הולך לעשות בקרוב מאוד והיה חשוב לי להבין מי נגד מי ואיך זה עובד. אני בתמורה סיפרתי להם על חוויותי בנווארינו, טורס דל פיינה ואושוואיה. לאחר מכן הלכתי לפגוש עוד חברה מהטיול, קלאודיה שטיילתי איתה בסלטה וחוחוי, שבמקרה גם הייתה באל צ׳אלטן. ישבנו על בירה בפאב מקומי נחמד והשלמנו פערים על כל הזמן שעבר.
זהו זה, למחרת בבוקר צפוי לאסוף אותי מיניבוס לתחילת המסע אל היישוב וייה אוהיגינס ולדרך צפונה על כביש הקרטרה אוסטרל. שקד ועידו המשיכו באותו יום לטרק יומול סירקוט לצד הפיץ רוי. הפעם הבאה שנתראה כולנו, בקרנבל בסלבדור.


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