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למחרת קבעתי לטייל עם גיא שפגשתי אתמול ועם פלוריאן הגרמני שאיתי בחדר בהוסטל, אל הלגונה הקפואה. אגם יפהפה הנמצא למרגלות קרחון. נפגשנו בבוקר וחלקנו מונית אל נקודת ההתחלה. הפעם, בשונה מאתמול, לא נדרשנו לשלם כלל, רק להתחיל ללכת. הלכנו בשביל מסודר לצד נחל שוצף, עברנו בגשר מאולתר מעליו והתחלנו לטפס במעלה חורש צפוף ומחטני, בדומה לאתמול, לכיוון הקרחון הגדול שבצבץ בין ההרים. הדרך הייתה לא פשוטה ובוצית מאוד בחלק מהמקרים. בנקודה מסוימת החלקתי פנימה היישר לתוך בוץ עמוק והאייפון עף גם הוא היישר לתוך הבוץ. תענוג. לאורך הדרך פגשנו תיירת צרפתייה שהתבלבלה בדרך והצטרפה אלינו. לאחר כשעתיים הליכה הגענו ללגונה (שאיננה באמת קפואה). אגם קרחוני מהמם, שמזכיר בערך את לגונה 69 שראיתי בפרו. הלגונה בצבעי תכלת בהיר ומסביבה קרחון ענק ולבן. אכלנו צהריים לצד הלגונה ולאחר מכן ניגשנו לחקור את הקרחון. הלכנו מסביב ללגונה שנראתה מדהים ושינתה את צבעיה כאשר השמש האירה עליה. כשהגענו לקרחון הבחנו מיד בשתי מערות קרח. לא עמדנו בפיתוי ומיד ניגשנו לחקור אותן. הפחיד אותי מאוד להיכנס למערות, קרחונים ידועים בשינויים המהירים שלהם וממש לא התחשק לי להימחץ או להיתקע בתוך קרחון. למרות זאת עזרתי אומץ ונכנסתי פנימה. הצבע של הקרח בפנים לא אמיתי. השמש מעירה אותו בכחול בוהק והקרח עצמו צלול לחלוטין. אפשר לראות התוך הקרח אבנים ובועות אוויר שנלכדו בתוכו לפני אלפי שנים. פשוט מחזה שלא מהעולם הזה. יצאנו מהמערה ואחרי הליכה קצרה על הקרחון התחלנו בדרכינו בחזרה למטה. בדרך, פלוריאן וגיא החליטו ללכת ולטבול בנחל, שכמובן מוזן ממי הקרחונים. אני השתפנתי הפעם וראיתי אותם נכנסים למים וצורחים. כשהגענו בחזרה לכניסה למסלול נתקלנו בבעיה, כיצד לחזור לעיר. היינו ללא קליטה ובמרחק של כמה קילומטרים טובים מאושוואיה. התחלנו ללכת לאורך השביל ובמזל עברה לידינו מונית שלקחה אותנו בחזרה. בערב נפגשנו כולנו בבר נחמד ונהנינו מבירה מקומית. ניסיתי גם לשתות את המשקה הארגנטינאי הלאומי והדוחה שמזכיר תרופה. הצטרפו אלינו לשולחן גם שני ארגנטינאים מבואנוס איירס שפלוריאן הכיר. זהו בעצם היה יומי האחרון באושוואיה, מחר בבוקר אקח סירה קטנה ואשוט אל העיירה פורטו וויליאמס שמצידה השני של תעלת ביגל, בצ׳ילה.

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