אורו פרטו ומכרות הזהב

מיד כשעליתי לאוטובוס לאורו פרטו וישבתי במקומי, הבנתי שהאדם ששיושב לידי איננו רגיל. ברזילאי צעיר, עיוור לחלוטין. היה יפה לראות איך למרות מגבלותיו הוא מצליח להפעיל את הסמארטפון. פיתחנו שיחה והוא מאוד התרגש לפגוש מישהו מישראל. הוא אפילו התקשר לחברתו ונתן לה לדבר איתי. מסתבר ששניהם מעריצים גדולים של ישראל, ובעיקר של הטכנולוגיה המפותחת בארץ העוזרת לאנשים עם מוגבלויות. הנסיעה עברה בנעימים וכבר בשעות הבוקר המוקדמות הגעתי לאורו פרטו. אזור אורו פרטו שונה לחלוטין מאזור ברזיליה. מקום הרבה יותר הררי, המזכיר מעט את את אקוואדור או פרו. צמחייה עבותה וירוקה מאוד. אורו פרטו הוא עיירה קולוניאליסטית מדהימה. אחד המקומות ששומרו בצורה הטובה ביותר בכל דרום אמריקה. מקום שהיווה בירת מדינת מינה ג’ראיס במשך מאות שנים עד שאיבד את התואר לעיר בלו הוריזונטה הגדולה. בהרים ובנחלים שליד אורו פרטו התגלה זהב בכמויות ענקיות, דבר שמאוד התאים לפורטוגזים שחיפשו בנרות אוצרות טבע בקולוניות שלהם. במאה ה-18 חל תור הזהב של אורו פרטו, שהפכה לאחת הערים החשובות והגדולות ביותר בברזיל ובאימפריה הפורטוגזית בכלל. הובאו למקום עשרות אלפי עבדים שפעלו לכריית הזהב בעשרות מכרות בכל האזור. בנוסף לכך, הכרייה התבססה גם על סינון מנהרות והזרמת מי הנהרות בסכרים (סלוסים).  העיירה כולה נמצאת בין הרים ירוקים ומהווה פנינה אמיתית. טרמינל האוטובוסים נמצא בחלקה העליון של העיר. ירדתי ממנו והתחלתי ללכת במורד רחובות האבן התלולים אל ההוסטל שלי שבלב ליבה של העיירה. כבר בתחילת ההליכה נתקלתי בכנסייה ענקית ומפוארת שרק היא בעצמה מיצג היסטורי ואומנותי מכובד בראש גבעה. ככל שהתקדמתי נחשפה בפניי העיר בשלמותה. בתי אבן עתיקים, צבעוניים וסופר שמורים הנמצאים לצד רחובות קולוניאליסטים מרוצפים. בכל כמה מאות מטרים ישנה כנסייה גדולה הבולטת עם צריחיה מעל הבתים “הרגילים”. העיירה גורמת לך להרגיש כאילו שחזרת בזמן 200 שנה אחורה ומעוררת בך התרגשות בלתי מוסברת. איזה מקום מיוחד. הלכתי כקילומטר ברחובות האבן היפים, ברחובותיה הראשיים ובעלייה המובילה אל הכיכר המרכזית של העיר. כיכר אבן עצומה בצורת מלבן. משתי פאותיה נמצאות טירות ענק המשמשות כמוזיאונים ומשתי פאותיה השניות אינספור חנויות יפות. ההוסטל שלי היה ממש בקרבתה של הכיכר, כשבדרך אליו זכיתי לעבור ולראות את כנסיית סאו פרנסיסקו המהווה אחד מסמליה המוכרים של העיר. ההוסטל שלי היה בית משפחה מקסימה, קליי, פרננדו וילדם התינוק שקיבלו אותי בשמחה. קראתי מעט על האטרקציות שיש לעשות במקום והחלטתי לא לבזבז את הזמן ולצאת כבר עכשיו אל האטרקציה שעניינה אותי יותר מכל, סיור במכרה הזהב “מינה דה פאסאז’ם”. מכרה הזהב הגדול ביותר הפתוח לציבור הרחב. מכרה המכיל יותר מ-30 ק”מ של מנהרות שנחפרו ע”י העבדים השחורים בחיפוש אחר הזהב. הסלע בו נכרה המכרה מכיל מינרלים רבים כמו ברזל, עופרת, אבץ ונחושת וצבעו שחור. מסיבה זו המקום נקרא “אורו פרטו”, שבפורטוגזית אומר – זהב שחור. שם אותו קיבלה העיירה לאחר שמשך מאות שנים נקראה “וילה ריקה”. לקחתי אוטובוס מקומי וקטן לכיוון העיירה השכנה מריאנה וירדתי באמצע הדרך. קניתי כרטיס כניסה למכרה והלכתי אל הפתח. אל המכרה יורדים בקרונית רכבת המורדת אט אט פנימה באמצעות כבלים בירידה תלולה מאוד. ירידה של 120 מטרים מתחת לפני האדמה. לצערי הרב הסיור היה אך ורק בפורטוגזית, לא הייתה לי ברירה אלא להצטרף. בסיור היו מדריך, אנוכי ושני ברזילאים, ז’וסה ואדסון. הירידה בקרונית מגניבה ביותר, הסוף של המנהרות לא נראה באופק ואתה בטוח שבכל רגע תעוף למטה מהקרונית. כשהגענו לתחתית הלכנו לאורך המנהרות. המדריך הסביר לנו על תהליך הכרייה הקשה והבלתי אנושי שעברו העבדים וכן על העינויים שקיבלו במידה ולא עמדו בתפוקה היומית שלהם. למזלי גם לז’וסה וגם לאדסון הייתה אנגלית מצוינת והם תרגמו לי את דברי המדריך. שניהם אנשים סופר חכמים ומוכשרים. על אף שהם נראים רק קצת יותר מבוגרים ממני, ז’וסה סיים תואר שני במשפטים ועובד כשופט בעיר סמוכה ואדסון כותב דוקטורט באגרונומיה על האופן בו ניתן לגדל אבוקדו באופן מיטבי בברזיל. אנשים רציניים. בשלב כלשהו בזמן פעילות המכרה, הבעלות עליו עברה לידי הבריטים כחלק מתשלום חוב של הפורטוגזים לבריטים. הבריטים הביאו פנימה אל המכרה ציוד כרייה מתקדם וטכנולוגי בהרבה והצליחו להוציא ממנו טונות רבים של זהב. עד היום לא ברור כמה זהב הוצא מהמכרה מאחר וכחלק מההסכם בין הפורטוגזים לבריטים, הבריטים נדרשו לא לשמור אף תיעוד לכמות הזהב שמוציאים מהמכרה. כנראה כדי למנוע כעס על העסקה בעתיד מצד פורטוגזים שונים. גודלו של המכרה בלתי נתפס ומכיל מנהרות המגיעות לאורו פרטו מצד אחד וכל הדרך עד מריאנה בצידו השני. מרחק של קילומטרים רבים. לאחר חפירת המנהרות ולאורך השנים התמלאו חלקים מהמכרה במי תהום רבים. כיום ישנו ממש אגם תת קרקעי עצום באזור המכרה שאפילו פועלת בו סוכנות צלילה שמאפשרת לרדת ולצלול במנהרות המוצפות מים. לצערי לא ידעתי על כך מראש וכמו כן המחיר יקר מאוד. במקום, ביקשתי מהמדריך רשות להיכנס ולשחות באגם, שמימיו צלולים להפליא. הוא הסכים אך הסתכל עליי קצת כמו משוגע, לטעמו המים קרים מידי, 20 מעלות. גם ז’וסה ואדסון הסתכלו עליי בפליאה כשאני מוריד את בגדיי ונכנס ללא בעיה או היסוס למים הנפלאים. הרגשה מדהימה, מסביבך נקיקים, מערות וחושך עם אורות מנצנצים מרחוק. שקט מוחלט, כמעט אף אחד לא נמצא שם. אגם בעומק של 120 מטר מתחת לאדמה, מי היה מאמין לכזה דבר. יצאתי מהמים מרוצה מאוד. החלפתי במהרה בגדים והמשכנו אל היציאה מהמכרה. עלינו למעלה שוב בקרונית המפחידה שהצליחה להחזיר אותנו למעלה. ז’וסה ואדסון הציעו לי להצטרף אליהם לנסיעה חזור לאורו פרטו. עברנו בדרך במוזיאון הקטן של המכרה שהציג חפצים אותנטיים מהתקופה בה המכרה היה פעיל. בדרך חזרה לעיירה אדסון וז’וסה הציעו לי להצטרף אליהם עכשיו לביקור ב”קאסה דה קואוטאס”, מוזיאון נחמד שבלווא הכי התכוונתי לבקר בו. הסכמתי. המוזיאון נמצא בבית גדול ועתיק ששימש בעבר להתכת הזהב שמוצא מהמכרה והטבעתו. אסור היה שיצא מהמכרה אף חלקיק של זהב שלא יעבור בבית הזה וממנו ייגבה מס של 20% לטובת הממלכה הפורטוגזית. חלק מהעבדים היו מחביאים חלקיקי זהב בבגדיהם ובשיער וכך היו מצליחים לקנות מעט אוכל או חפצים. ישנו סיפור מפורסם על עבד בשם שיקו רי שהצליח בצורה כזו במשך שנים של הברחות לקנות את חירותו שלו ושל בנו, ובסופו של דבר אף לרכוש מכרה זהב בעצמו. כמובן שבמידה והעבדים היו נתפסים אפילו עם פתית זהב הם היו מעונים ומוענשים קשות. הסתובבנו בבית הגדול, ראינו תצוגות על הכסף של ברזיל וגלגוליו, יצירות אומנות, היסטוריה מקומית ולבסוף את הקומה התחתונה שבה היו מגורי העבדים, ובה הוצגו מתקני עינויים ששומשו נגד העבדים. כאן נתקלתי בעוד סימן להתחזקות הקורונה, במקום עמד שוטר עם מסכה על הפנים ששם לכל אדם שעבר במקום אלכוג’ל. בשיחתי עם ז’וסה הסתבר לי שכבר התגלו כמה מקרים של חולים בברזיליה. אופס. עזבנו את המוזויאון והמשכנו ברגל לכיוון כנסיית סאו פרנסיסקו. עברנו ליד המלון הגדול והמפואר של העיירה שעוצב גם הוא ע”י ניימיאר, היהודי שעיצב את כל ברזיליה. לפני שנכנסנו לכנסייה עברנו בשוק האבן היפה של המקום. אזור אורו פרטו מלא ב”סלעי סבון”, סלעים שמאוד קל לחרוט בהם ולעצב אותם. בשוק ישנם חפצים רבים ומכל הגדלים והסוגים העשויים מהסלעים הללו. מכלי מטבח לרהיטים ולדברי אומנות. ז’וסה ואדסון גם קנו לי במתנה “טבעת רגשות”, טבעת מסורתית ברזילאית המשנה את צבעה עפ”י הטמפרטורה. נכנסנו לכנסייה הגדולה והמרשימה. כנסייה מאוד עתיק אך גם שמורה להפליא. ציורים יפיפיים עיטרו את התקרה במלאכים ובסיפורי הברית החדשה. זהב ופסלים רבים. באמת מקום יפה. הכנסייה שימשה ככנסייה המרכזית של אורו פרטו, כאשר רק ללבנים הותר להשתמש בה. משם המשכנו לכנסייה נוספת, הפעם לזו השייכת לאנשי המסטיזו (המעורבים בין שחורים ללבנים) גם היא הייתה יפה אך הרבה פחות מרשימה מסאו פרנסיסקו. נפרדתי מז’וסה ואדסון, הלכתי לאכול צהריים ולנוח מעט בהוסטל אחרי היום הארוך. בשעות הערב התחלתי לשמוע מוסיקה חזקה בוקעת מהמבנה שממול. הלכתי לברר במה מדובר ומיד ראיתי מסיבה עם המון חבר’ה צעירים מאחורי שער סגור. שאלתי את אחת הבנות שראיתי מבעד לסורגים מה זאת המסיבה ונענתי שמדובר במסיבת סיום תואר של האוניברסיטה של אורו פרטו. היא הזמינה אותי להיכנס ולהצטרף למסיבה. תוך רגע פגשתי גם את כל חברותיה. שמה היה ולריה והיא הייתה תלמידת שנה ראשונה כאן באוניברסיטה. חברותיה היו במגוון גילאים ובשלבים שונים בתארים שלהן. גלוריה, נטלי, ביאנקה וג’וליה. כמובן שכולן התלהבו מזה שאני מישראל ומיד צירפו אותי לחבורה. שתינו בירה וקוקטיילים, ומיד כעבור כמה דקות עברנו ללוקיישן אחר שגם בו הייתה מסיבה. מסתבר שישנם הרבה מסיבות המתרחשות בו זמנית במספר רב של מבנים השייכים לאוניברסיטה בכל רחבי העיר. עברנו בין לוקיישן ללוקיישן, מחפשים אחר המסיבה הטובה ביותר. ממשיכים לשתות המון בין לבין ובכל פעם עוצרים לכמה דקות בכדי לרקוד ולנוח. לא אהבתי את ההתרוצצות בין המקומות אך רציתי להישאר איתן. לחלוטין לא הייתי ערוך למסיבה כעת. היה עליי את הארנק שלי והאייפון, לא הייתי לבוש כמו שצריך. להגיע למקום הייתה החלטה ספונטנית של רגע. לא נתתי לעובדה הזו להפריע לי והמשכתי לחגוג. בשלב כלשהו עלינו על אוטובוס ונסענו לצידה השני של העיירה. אואוו חשבתי לעצמי. לעשות את הדרך חזרה לבד לאחר ששתיתי כבר די הרבה זאת לא תהיה משימה פשוטה, בעיקר שאין בעיירה אובר. הגענו לשכונה מרוחקת יותר, בה גרים רוב הסטודנטים. אפשר היה לראות שהבתים שם מעט חדשים יותר וכן כמויות רבות של צעירים הולכים ברחובות. הגענו אל בית פרטי של אחד הסטודנטים שבו הייתה המסיבה הגדולה מכל. מאות סטודנטים חוגגים במוסיקה סופר רועשת ובצפיפות גדולה. מושלם בשביל קורונה, אך הלילה הזה ממש לא היה אכפת לי מכך. חגגנו, שתינו, רקדנו בצפיפות הגדולה ואפילו הצלחנו לעשות הפוגה קלה ולאכול. בשלב כלשהו גלוריה הצליחה לאבד את הפלאפון שלה, כולנו נרתמנו לחיפושים, הצלחנו למצוא את הנייד אך גלוריה נעלמה. ערב מאוד מוזר. בשעה מסוימת המוסיקה הופסקה והמסיבה נגמרה כלא הייתה. המשכנו כמו כולם אל המבורגריה קטנה ומקומית שכעת הייתה מלאה בסטודנטים שיכורים ולאחר מכן אל ביתן של הבנות, שגרות ביחד במעין קומונה מגניבה. בית אחווה כמו בקולג’ים בארה”ב. היה ערב אדיר וספונטני ביותר, ממש לא ציפיתי למסיבות שכאלו היום. בלילה הבנות עזרו לי והתקשרו אל מונית שלקחה אותי בחזרה להוסטל. לא הייתי צריך לחזור בכוחות עצמי, מזל!

בבוקר שלמחרת החלטתי לא להישאר באורו פרטו יום נוסף ולעזוב לריו דה ז’אנרו כבר באותו ערב. יצאתי אל הכיכר המרכזית והלכתי לבקר באחד המוזיאונים הגדולים, מוזיאון האינקונפידנציה, תנועה מחתרתית של פילוסופים, הוגי דעות ואנשים משכילים שפעלו ליצירת מרד במלוכה הפורטוגזית והשגת עצמאות מידיה. המרד דוכא בשנת 1791 ומנהיגה הידוע כ-“טירדנטס” הוצא להורג. עם זאת, רעיונותיה של התנועה הניחו את היסודות לעצמאות ברזיל 30 שנה מאוחר יותר. המוזיאון גדול מאוד ועוסק בהרחבה במצב לפני המרד, בתנאים שהובילו להקמת התנועה, תכנון המרד ובתגובה הפורטוגלית. מאוד מעניין. לקחתי במקום אוזניות שמע ועברתי שלב שלב בקשב רב. המוזיאון גם הכיל קומה שלמה של חפצי דת ואומנות, שביניהם יצירות רבות של האמן הברזילאי המפורסם “אלייז’דיניו” שהפך לנכה ויצירותיו נחשבות לדוגמא הטובה ביותר לקולוניאליזם הפורטוגלי. עזבתי את המוזיאון המרתק והחלטתי לצאת לסיור רכוב בג’יפ פתוח שלוקח לבריכות ומפלים באזור. הגעתי למקום, הג’יפ חיכה אך הנהג אמר שכרגע אין מספיק תיירים ושאחזור בעוד 40 דקות. אוקיי, הלכתי אל טרמינל האוטובוסים, קניתי כרטיס נסיעה לריו ללילה, קניתי אסאי וחזרתי למקום. לחוסר מזלי הג’יפ בדיוק עזב. הצלחתי לראות אותו מתרחק ממני בשדרת האבן. הבנתי שכנראה שהוא יעבור בכיכר המרכזית בעוד כמה שניות. רצתי לשם ובאמת הוא עבר שם כמה מטרים לפניי. פספסתי אותו. באסה! היו חסרות לי כמה שניות בסך הכל. הלכתי מאוכזב אל מוזיאון הכרייה והמינרולוגיה שבמקום שגם נסגר לפני דקות אחדות. זה פשוט לא היום שלי. אכלתי צהריים מאוחרים, ניסתי למצוא מקום לטעון את הטלפון, אכלתי עוד אסאי ופשוט חזרתי אל ההוסטל שלי. העברתי את הזמן היטב עד הערב. מאחר שאין בעיירה אובר, נאלצתי לבקש מבעלת ההוסטל שתזמין עבורי מונית, אך זו הזמינה את המונית רק כרבע שעה לפני האוטובוס שלי. ידעתי שאני חייב להקדים את המונית, אלו ברזילאים שבמאה אחוז יאחרו, ולמרות שתחנת האוטובוס רק במרחק של חמש דקות נסיעה, אני לא יכול לאפשר לעצמי מרווח ביטחון קטן כל כך. בעלת ההוסטל כבר יצאה ונסעה לבלו הוריזונטה ונאלצתי להסביר שאני צריך להקדים את המונית לשני העובדים שם, שכמובן לא דיברו מילה באנגלית או בספרדית. לבסוף הצלחתי. מזל שעשיתי כן, באמת נהג המונית איחר בעשרים דקות, ולמרות הקדמת המונית הצלחתי כמעט להפסיד את האוטובוס. הביקור באורו פרטו אמנם היה קצר אך עמוס בחוויות. עיירה מקסימה ומיוחדת. לא ראיתי בחיי הרבה מקומות דומים אליה, הן באווירה והן בשימור. כעת נסיעת לילה של כ-8 שעות אל העיר האגדית ואחת מנקודות השיא של הטיול, ריו דה ז’אנרו!

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