פורטו מונט ופוארטו ואראס

האוטובוס מאנקוד יצא לדרך. מהר מאוד הגענו אל המיצר. האוטובוס עלה על מעבורת שיצאה לדרך מיד ובתוך כעשרים דקות כבר היינו בצד השני – בחזרה בצ׳ילה היבשתית. במיצר היה נראה שמתבצעות עבודות בנייה, אולי מקימים גשר שיחבר את האי יבשתית לצ׳ילה. בתוך כשעה וחצי כבר הגעתי לפורטו מונט. עיר ענקית שבעצם מהווה כמרכז האורבני הגדול הדרומי ביותר בצ׳ילה. העיר, כמו כל העיירות בסביבתה נבנתה על ידי מהגרים גרמנים שהגיעו לאזור באמצע המאה ה-19. העיר נמצאת על מפרץ ומרגישה יפה וצבעונית יותר ממה שהיא באמת. צבעי השקיעה שהשתקפו בים לצד הבניינים הגבוהים והמודרניים של העיר היו מראה יפה. לקחתי את כל הציוד והלכתי ברגל אל ההוסטל שלי. בגלל טעות במפה שאיתה ניוטתי עליתי עלייה ענקית בהמון מדרגות. הבנתי שאני במקום הלא נכון וכמו כן שאני בשכונה מאוד לא טובה בשעות מאוחרות. לא מצב אידאלי ומאוד מלחיץ. ירדתי מהר את המדרגות והצלחתי להבין את המיקום האמיתי. הוסטל ביתי חמוד וחם. אלחנדרה, בעלת הבית קיבלה אותי בשמחה והראתה לי את המקום. בהוסטל היו גרמנים, צרפתים, צ׳יליאנים ונורווגית בשם איינה שהייתה שותפתי לחדר. כמה כיף לישון במיטה רכה ונוחה אחרי ימים ארוכים בקמפינג.
למחרת אכלתי ארוחת בוקר טובה שאלחנדרה הכינה ויצאתי לטיול בעיר פורטו מונט. בתחזית מזג האוויר להיום היה רע מאוד עם גשם זלעפות, אולם עם המזל שלי הצלחתי לחמוק לחלוטין מכל הגשם. רק כשעצרתי לאכול התחיל מטר אימתני. הלכתי לאורך הטיילת היפה הצמודה אל מימי המפרץ, בכיכר המרכזית של העיר, ברובע המודרני ובשוק מקומי שמוכר דברי אומנות תוצרת יד. בכך פחות או יותר סיימתי את מה שיש לעשות בפורטו מונט. העיר אמנם גדולה וחשובה, אך גם די אפרורית בסופו של דבר. חזרתי אל ההוסטל והחלטתי להמשיך כבר באותו יום אל העיירה פורטו ואראס היפה שנמצאת רק 20 ק״מ מפורטו מונט. הצטרפו אליי לנסיעה איינה וחבר הודי שפגשה בדרך בשם מארוו. עלינו על אובר ובאמת הגענו בתוך דקות ספורות. פוארטו ואראס היא מקום עם יותר חן וקסם מפורטו מונט. העיירה ממוקמת לשפת אגם יאנקיהו הכחול כאשר ממנה משתקף על מימי האגם הר הגעש העצום אוסורנו. התשובה של דרום אמריקה להר הגעש פוג׳י שביפן. הר בצורת חרוט ענק שפסגתו מושלגת. לחוסר מזלנו באותו יום היו עננים שגרמו לכך שהצלחנו לראות רק חלקים מההר בכל זמן נתון, כך שהצלחנו לקבל מושג לגבי גודלו, אך לא הרבה מעבר לכך. גם פורטו ואראס הוקמה ע״י מהגרים גרמנים, ובה העובדה הזו הרבה יותר מורגשת. הרבה בתים בווארים צבעוניים טיפוסיים ואווירה גרמנית כללית עוטפת את המקום. טיילנו לאורך החוף עד למרכז העיר, ראינו את הכנסייה המפורסמת של העיר ושתינו בירה יקרה להחריד. עובדה שלא הפריע למארוו שעובד כדאטה סיינטיסט, אך פחות התאימה לאיינה ולי. בטיילת נבנתה תערוכה מגניבה של רובוטים העשויים מחלקי מתכת משומשים. בערב איינה ומארוו חזרו לפורטו מונט ואני נשארתי בהוסטל מצוין בפורטו ואראס. בהוסטל פגשתי בלגית עם הורים ישראלים שאפילו דיברה עברית.
למחרת קבעתי עם איינה ומארוו שנצא לטייל באזור, אל מפלי פטרואוה המפורסמים. הפעם הצטרף אלינו עוד חבר גרמני שלהם בשם גבריאל. עלינו על קולקטיבו מצ׳וקמק ממרכז פורטו ואראס ויצאנו לדרך. מהר מאוד יצאנו מהעיר ונכנסנו לאזור מבודד, כפרי ומיוער. קיווינו לטוב, שהעננים יתפוגגו ונצליח לראות את ההר. הגענו למפלים ונכנסנו לשמורה. המראה של ההר עדיין היה חלקי ולכן החלטנו לבצע קודם כל את שבילי ההליכה הקצרים שבשמורה, בתקווה שלאחר מכן המראה יתבהר לנו. השבילים היו יפים עם כמה פינות חמד אמיתיות, באחת מהם ישבנו על אבנים בתוך היער כאשר כל האזור מסביבינו זרם כנחל צלול ופסטורלי. הלכנו גם לאורך הנהר הגדול ואשדיו שזה עתה ירדו את המפלים. לבסוף הגענו אל המפלים עצמם. מפלים גדולים ועוצמתיים שמה שהופך אותם לכל כך מיוחדים הוא הר אוסורנו שברקע. על אף שכעת מצבנו היה יותר טוב מבחינת הראות, עדיין לא הצלחנו להשיג את המראה שקיווינו להשיג. אכלנו צהריים והחלטנו להמשיך עוד מספר קילומטרים במעלה הדרך אל מה שחשבנו שהוא עיירה – פטרואוה. איינה ואני תפסנו טרמפ עם שני צ׳יליאנים נחמדים, ומארוו וגבריאל הגיעו למקום מספר דקות אחרינו בטרמפ אחר. עד שהם הגיעו איינה ואני הלכנו לנו במקום, שהתברר כלא הרבה יותר ממעגן סירות לחופי אגם טודוס לוס סנטוס. אגם יפהפה, כחול וצלול. בצידיו אפשר היה לראות הרי אבן משוננים עם שלג על פסגותיהם. הכל ירוק ירוק. פשוט מקום מדהים, וכמובן שגם כאן הר אוסורנו מביע את נוכחותו הדומיננטית בנוף. איינה ואני החלטנו שלנוכח המקום, חייבים להיכנס ולשחות באגם. הלכנו לפינה מרוחקת יותר ועשינו את זה. נכנסנו למים הקרים. איזו חוויה מטורפת. מארוו וגבריאל שהגיעו למקום ראו אותנו במים וצחקו על צעקות האימה שלנו מהקור של המים. כשיצאנו הספקנו לשחק פריסבי על החוף ועלינו על הקולקטיבו בחזרה לפורטו ואראס. את היום סיימתי בהכנת סטייק ענק בהוסטל וכן במנה נכבדת של יין. יום נהדר. בתוכניתי, ביום שלמחרת רציתי לעבור כבר אל היעד הבא, עיר הבשר והשוקולד ברילוצ׳ה שבארגנטינה. הייתה לי בעיה קטנה, לא משנה כמה בדקתי וחיפשתי, כל האוטובוסים למחרת לברילוצ׳ה כבר היו מלאים. החלטתי להתגמש ושוב לצאת מקופסת התיירים. הבנתי שהדרך לברילוצ׳ה עוברת בעיר הגדולה אוסורנו (שאליה אף תייר אינו מגיע) ולכן ישנו סיכוי שאצליח לתפוס אוטובוס משם, או לחילופין אמשיך את הדרך משם בטרמפים.
בבוקר ארזתי את חפציי ועליתי על אוטובוס אל אוסורנו. נסעתי צפונה לאורך חופיו של האגם של פורטו ואראס כאשר היום כבר הייתה ראות טובה והצלחתי לראות את הר אוסורנו במלוא הדרו. לאחר כשעתיים הגעתי לאוסורנו, ולמרבה שמחתי מיד מצאתי אוטובוס המשך משם לברילוצ׳ה. ווהוו. הייתי גאה בעצמי ששוב הגדלתי ראש וסידרתי לעצמי את הטיול. עליתי על האוטובוס השני ויצאתי לדרך, הפעם לנסיעה יותר ארוכה. כאשר האוטובוס התקרב לגבול הארגנטינאי הנוף התחיל להשתנות ולהפוך לדרמטי והררי יותר. עברנו בתוך שמורת פויהו בצד הצ׳יליאני שהפכה לשמורת נואל הואפי בצד הארגנטינאי. ככל שהתקרבנו לברילוצ׳ה התחלתי להיחשף לנוף הפסטורלי והייחודי של האזור. עשרות אגמים צלולים כחולים שמעליהם מתנשאים הרים גבוהים ומיוערים. מקום משגע. לבסוף, אחרי יום הנסיעה הארוך והמתיש הצלחתי להגיע אל הטרמינל של ברילוצ׳ה, שהיה רחוק מהעיר. השעה כבר הייתה כמעט עשר בלילה. כעת נתקלתי בבעיה חדשה, איך להגיע אל הקמפינג שלי בשעה מאוחרת כל כך וללא כסף ארגנטינאי כלל. התחננתי לעזרה במסעדה היחידה שהייתה פתוחה בטרמינל עד שלבסוף הם היו מוכנים להמיר את הכסף הצ׳יליאני שלי לארגנטינאי. ניצלתי. לקחתי מונית אל הקמפינג שהיה מעט מחוץ לעיר, עדיין ללא הבנה או מראה איפה בכלל אני נמצא. הגעתי לקמפינג, נרשמתי, פרסתי את האוהל והלכתי לישון. עשיתי את זה, הגעתי לברילוצ׳ה!

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