פוקון והר הגעש ויאריקה

התעוררתי באוהל החמים בארבע בבוקר. תענוג לקפל ולארגן את כל הציוד כשעדיין חושך בחוץ. יצאתי מהקמפינג ולקחתי מונית אל הטרמינל. דיברתי עם נהג המונית שהתקשה להאמין שאני מישראל, כנראה שהספרדית שלי כבר באמת ברמה טובה. הטרמינל היה חשוך ומנומנם, כאשר לאט לאט החלו להגיע בטפטופים אנשים. לבסוף עליתי על האוטובוס והתחלנו לנסוע צפונה בעמקים הארגנטינאים הירוקים שעדיין היו חשוכים. שמעתי כל כך הרבה דברים על פוקון, שאמורה להיות ברילוצ׳ה הצ׳יליאנית. עיירת נופש תוססת שמהווה בירת האטרקציות והאקסטרים של צ׳ילה. מוקד משיכה מרכזי לכל הישראלים שעושים את מסלול ה- ״גל עולה״. עצרנו בעיירה הקטנה חונין ומשם המשכנו מערבה לכיוון צ׳ילה. האוטובוס נסע בדיוק בדרך בה רציתי לנסוע אתמול, אל לב ליבה של שמורת לנין. בשל העלייה בגובה, הצמחייה השתנתה. עצים משונים וענקיים השתלטו על הנוף ההררי והוולקני. בסמוך למעבר הגבול ניתן היה לראות את חלקו התחתון של הר הגעש לנין, שחלקו העליון כוסה בעננים. לאורך כל הנסיעה ישבה לידי צ׳יליאנית נחמדה שאפילו גרה בישראל כשנתיים והתרגשה מאוד לפגוש אותי. בשעות הצהריים הגעתי לפוקון. כשירדתי מהאוטובוס הייתי בטוח שהתבלבלתי בתחנה. זאת פוקון? כל כך שלווה ורגועה? איפה כל התיירים והישראלים? הלכתי עם הציוד שלי לקמפינג נחמד שהיה קרוב לחופי האגם של פוקון והתמקמתי שם. יצאתי לסיבוב ראשון בעיירה, להוציא כסף ולטעון את הסים של הטלפון. רק במרכז העיירה התחלתי להבין סופסוף שקורה כאן משהו. המוני חנויות טיולים, מסעדות ובתי קפה יפים המוקפים בנחילי תיירים ההולכים לכל עבר. ולמרות זאת, עדיין העיירה מצליחה לשמור על אווירה רגועה יחסית. חזרתי אל הקמפינג וחיכיתי לאיינה שפגשתי בפורטו מונט שתצטרף אליי, לאחר שהיא הייתה כבר כיומיים בעיירה. כשהיא הגיעה הלכנו להתחיל לסגור את האטרקציות שלנו לימים הקרובים. קיבלתי טיפ מצוין מאור שפגשתי בקרטרה לסגור את כל האטרקציות דרך הוסטל ישראלים בשם קאסה מאריו. הקשבנו לעצה והלכנו לשם. פשוט לא ייאמן מה שהולך במקום הזה. איינה חטפה שוק תרבות. עשרות ישראלים וישראליות שהולכים לכל מקום, מדברים וצועקים. אז לכאן כל החבר׳ה של הגל הגיעו. בעל המקום הוא לואיס, צ׳יליאני שעובד עם ישראלים כבר 32 שנה. הוא כמעט מדבר עברית שוטף, כאשר מרבית הישראלים ששם פונים אליו כבר מראש בעברית. כשאיינה ואני הגענו לשם הוא מיד קלט שאנחנו משהו מיוחד בנוף. הדבר התעצם בעיקר כשהתחלתי לדבר איתו בספרדית. הוא מאוד התקשה להאמין שאני ישראלי, ומשום שדיברתי עם איינה באנגלית, גם כל הישראלים מאוד הופתעו. סיטואציה מצחיקה. הזמנו את כל הפעילויות דרך לואיס ביעילות רבה. לואיס התברר כסופר נחמד והתחבר אלינו מאוד. הזמנתי למחרת גלישת סנפלינג במפלים, ביום שלמחרת היידרוספיד- בודי רפטינג וביום השלישי את הטיפוס אל הר הגעש ויאריקה. איינה לעומת זאת, הזמינה צניחה חופשית למחר, ואת שתי האטרקציות הנוספות כמוני. לאחר שסיימנו ונרגענו לגבי הזמנת הדברים יצאנו להסתובב בעיירה והלכנו לאורך החוף השחור והוולקני שלה. כל כך הרבה אנשים שכבו על החוף ונהנו מהשמש. ישבנו בבית קפה ולבסוף חזרנו אל הקמפינג שבו בישלנו ארוחת ערב מופלאה עם יין.
בבוקר התעוררתי מוקדם והלכתי אל לואיס בעוד איינה נשארה לישון. עליתי שם על מיניבוס עם כעשרה ישראלים אחרים כשיעדכנו הוא נחל קניוני שבו נרד שלושה מפלים בסנפלינג. עצרנו בדרך בבקתה בפאתי העיירה בה קיבלנו חליפות רטובות, נעליים ורתמות. לאחר כעשרים דקות נוספות הגענו אל המקום. אני הייתי היחיד שהעז לקחת את הפלאפון, החלטה שהתבררה כסופר חכמה. הלכנו במשך כשעתיים בתוך מימיו הקפואים של נחל קטן ופסטורלי. מסביבינו צמחייה מסיבית וירוקה שמבהירה את כמויות הגשמים המטורפות שיורדים באזור. היה משעשע מאוד לשמוע את צווחות ותלונות הישראלים בכל פעם שמעט מהמים הקרים נכנסו לנעליהם או הרטיבו אותם. לבסוף הגענו אל המפל הראשון. צוק של כחמישה עשר מטרים שממנו אפשר לראות מעט מהמשך הדרך. לקח זמן רב עד שכולם ירדו, בכל פעם בנאדם אחד, כאשר אני עם הניסיון בטיפוס וסנפלינג ירדתי בתוך שניות בודדות. מגניב. משם הדרך למפל השני הייתה קצרה וגם בו לקח זמן עד שכולם ירדו. הפעם הייתי חכם וירדתי בין הראשונים, כך שיכולתי לנוח למטה ולצלם את האזור. הירידה במפל הייתה לתוך קניון צר ומטורף. מים טפטפו מכל צידי הקניון והאור שנכנס פנימה מבעד לפתחו העליון האיר את כל המקום בצורה מיוחדת. כשכולם ירדו המשכנו להתקדם בתוך הקניון. החלק היפה ביותר של היום. פשוט מקום מטורף שבו הצמחייה הירוקה נגלית מבעד לפתחו העליון של הקניון בליווי הסאונד המחריש של המים הזורמים והנשפכים פנימה. אני הייתי עסוק בלהתמוגג מהמקום ולצלם כל פינה בעוד שהישראלים האחרים קיטרו והתלוננו. טיפשים. המפל השלישי היה היפה ביותר, עם כי סתמי שכן אינו היווה חלק מהמסלול. כולם ירדו ועלו אותו לפני שהלכנו ברגל בחזרה אל המיניבוס. חזרתי פוקון והלכתי עם שני ישראלים נחמדים שפגשתי שם, אלון ושחף למסעדת סושי מקומית עליה קיבלנו המלצה מהמדריך. מקום פצפון שמכין כמו חטיפי סושי, רולים ארוכים מטוגנים במחיר מצחיק. התפוצצנו. לאחר מכן הגעתי לקאמפינג עייף. איינה עדיין הייתה באותו זמן בצניחה החופשית. ניצלתי את הזמן לתפוס תנומה טובה לפני שהיא חזרה בערב. סיימנו את יום האטרקציות הראשון במסעדה נחמדה.
למחרת התעוררנו מעט מאוחר יותר והלכנו ביחד שוב אל קאסה מריו. עלינו שם על מיניבוס שלקח אותנו אל הבודי רפטינג. שוב עצרנו באותה בקתה וקיבלנו את החליפות וציוד המגן לפני שהמשכנו לנהר. קיבלנו תדריך בטיחות כיצד להשתמש בקרש הקלקר הגדול שמגן עליך ומציף אותך ברפטינג. המדריך עשה לנו תרגולי התהפכות ויצאנו לדרך. בהתחלה השייט רגוע, אך ברגע שמתחילים ה״ראפידס״ המצב משתנה. היינו אמורים לשמור תמיד על טור אחד ארוך וכמובן שלא הצלחנו. ליוו אותנו עוד שני מדריכים שהיו אמונים על לחלץ את המתקשים. תמיד לפני אזורים בעייתיים היו שורקים לנו וצועקים לנו מה לעשות. הבעיה הייתה שהם היו עושים את זה הרבה לפני המקום הדרוש, דבר שבלבל אותי כמה פעמים והכניס אותי לאזורים בעייתיים. המון מים נכנסים לעיניים ולאף, בעיקר בזמן הראפידים. כך שלא באמת רואים משהו ומקווים לטוב. פגעתי כמה פעמים בסלעים ואף נתקעתי עליהם, אך ציוד המגן שומר עליך היטב. עברנו ראפיד אחד אימתני וגדול במיוחד שערבל והפך את כל הקבוצה. כולם שרדו. היה כיף אדיר. זו הפעם הראשונה שעשיתי את השגעון הזה. חזרנו מותשים לפוקון והיישר לשנ״צ נחמד. בערב חזרנו שוב לקאסה מריו על מנת לשמוע את התדריך לגבי טיפוס הויאריקה מחר. האטרקציה המרכזית והמרגשת ביותר. לחוסר מזלינו נאמר לנו שמזג האוויר צפוי להיות רע. רוחות חזקות ועננים, שיתכן ויאלצו אותנו לשוב על עקבותינו לפני הפסגה. מרבית הישראלים החליטו לוותר ולנסות ביום אחר. כולם מלבד אלון, שחף, איינה ואני שננסה בכל זאת. לאחר מכן סיימנו בסושי המוזר של אתמול.
למחרת הגיע היום הגדול של טיפוס הר הגעש ויאריקה. התעוררנו בחמש בבוקר, קיפלנו את האוהל וכל הציוד. המיניבוס הגיע לקמפינג ואסף אותנו. הגענו לקאסה מריו וקיבלנו שם נעלי וציוד טיפוס. השארנו שם את התרמילים וכל הציוד הרגיל שלנו. פגשנו את שני המדריכים ויצאנו לדרך. עדיין היה חושך בחוץ. לאחר כשעה הגענו לאתר הסקי שבתחתית ההר. הויאריקה הוא הר געש אייקוני ויפהפה בצורת חרוט מושלם. חלקו העליון לבן ומושלג כל השנה. עוד הר שנותן פייט לפוג׳י ביפן. הויאריקה הוא גם הר הגעש הפעיל ביותר בצ׳ילה ומתפרץ אחת לכמה שנים. מסיבה זו קיבלנו מסכות גז שעלינו לחבוש בפסגתו. בשל הרוחות העזות באותו יום, הרכבל שמעלה כחצי מהדרך לא עבד ונאלצנו לטפס הכל בכוחות עצמינו. כ-1200 מטר של טיפוס מאתר הסקי לפסגה. איינה מעט התקשתה בטיפוס ואני ליוויתי אותה מאחור עם אחד המדריכים. עלייה די תלולה על חול וולקני שחור. בדרך אפשר היה לראות שרידים של רכבלים ישנים שנהרסו בהתפרצויות השונות לאורך השנים. קצת לפני ההגעה לחלק המושלג והקרחוני, איינה נפצעה ברגל והחליטה להפסיק את הטיפוס, על כן, הצטרפתי לאלון ושחף במאבק העיקש ברוח והעננים בדרך לפסגה. לבשנו את הקרמפונים ונעזרנו בגרזני הקרח בהליכת הזיגזג האיטית מעלה. כמעט ואי אפשר היה לראות כלום, הכל לבן. הרוח החזקה העיפה חלקיקי קרח שהכאיבו מאוד בעיניים בכל פעם שהלכנו נגד כיוונה. עצרנו כמאה מטרים מתחת לפסגה, חבשנו את מסכות הגז והסתערנו מעלה. עשינו את זה! הגענו! חבל שאי אפשר היה לראות כלום. הכל לבן ואי אפשר לראות אפילו שני מטרים קדימה. הצטלמנו על הפסגה (למרות שהכל היה לבן) והתחלנו לרדת. בדרך כלל הירידה מההר נעשית בגלישה על מזחלות שלג. הפעם, בשל מזג האוויר הרע נאלצנו לרדת את מרבית הדרך ברגל. רק בחלקו התחתון של ההר היינו יכולים להחליק מטה. בתוך התרמילים שלנו היו בגדים חסיני מים מיוחדים וחתיכת פלסטיק המשמשת כמזחלת. הגלישה הייתה מהנה מאוד, כמו ילדים בלונה פארק. לבסוף הגענו בחזרה לתחתית ולאתר הסקי. חוויה משוגעת, למרות ואולי בגלל התנאים הקשים. רגע לפני שיצאנו לדרך, עובד של הרט״ג הצ׳יליאני שאל אותנו טונות שאלות מטומטמות. גם המדריכים מאוד זלזלו באירוע. איינה כבר חיכתה לנו בקאסה, לצד פירות חתוכים ונפלאים. בערב של אותו היום איינה ואני ניסע באוטובוס לסנטיאגו. החלטנו לנצל את השעות עד האוטובוס בגיחה למעיינות החמים הנחמדים שבאזור ובהרפיית השרירים אחרי הטיפוס המפרך. לואיס הקפיץ אותנו אל טרמינל האוטובוסים, עלינו על מיניבוס ובתוך כארבעים דקות כבר הגענו אל ״טרמאס לוס פוזונס״. נביעה חמה יפהפיה הנמצאת בליבו של קניון עמוק המוקף בהרים גבוהים. שהינו בבריכה החמה והתענגנו על המקום למרות כמות האנשים הרבה. לבסוף חזרנו לפוקון ולקאסה מריו. לואיס הנחמד נתן לנו להתקלח ולהירגע בקאסה ואף הקפיץ אותנו אל תחנת האוטובוס שלנו. באמת אדם מדהים. עלינו על האוטובוס שהיה אחד המפוארים ביותר שנסעתי בהם עד כה ונפרדנו מפוקון. התחנה הבאה, חזרה לעיר הבירה סנטיאגו דה צ׳ילה.

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