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התעוררנו בבוקר שלמחרת לאחר שינה נפלאה. לא פחות מחמש שכבות של שמיכות כיסו אותנו בלילה, ומסיבה מוצדקת. הטמפרטורה בפוטרה יורדת למתחת לאפס בלילות. לאחר ארוחת בוקר תכננו לצאת לדרך. זה היה יום מלא תקלות, וכעת התחלנו את הכיף. המשימה הראשונה שלנו, לתדלק את הרכב. לא משימה מורכבת במיוחד, למעט העובדה שאין תחנות דלק בכלל בקרבת מקום ובטח שלא ביישוב. המקומיים ממלאים ג׳ריקנים בכל הזדמנות שיש להם באריקה או בבוליביה וכך מתדלקים את הרכבים שלהם. אופס. לאחר חיפושים רבים, במזל מצאנו מלון שהיה מוכן למכור לנו מעט בנזין. זאת לאחר שבכל המקומות שמוכרים ג׳ריקנים עם דלק אזל כל הבנזין. קנינו עשרים ליטר במחיר מופקע שמיד התברר כאולי 15 ליטר במקרה הטוב. נאלצנו לקנות עוד נגלה כזו. למרות כל התסבוכת, הצלחנו ויצאנו לדרך לכיוון הסלאר דה סוריירי. נסענו דרומה על שבילי עפר מסודרים ונכנסנו אל השמורה ״לאס ויקוניאס״. עברנו מישורים ארוכים וצחיחים כשהרים געשיים מופיעים מדי פעם משני צידינו. ראינו עדרי ויקוניות רבות לאורך הדרך. הפרווה החומה- כתומה שלהן היא הסוואה מושלמת לסביבה המדברית. מאוד קשה להבחין בהן עד שכבר ממש קרובים. לאחר נסיעה של כשעתיים עצרנו ליד הסלאר, מישור מלח עצום ולבן שחלקים ממנו שקועים תחת המים. בחלקים הללו פלמינגואים יפים עמדו ואכלו את הבקטריות שבקרקעית. ניסיתי להתקרב ולצלם אותם אך הפלמינגואים לא פראיירים והתרחקו בכל פעם שהתקרבתי. פגשנו במקום זוג גרמנים שנוסעים בדיפנדר שהביאו מגרמניה וחורשים את כל דרום אמריקה. לאחר ארוחת צהריים קלילה על מכסה המנוע של הג׳יפ המשכנו בנסיעה קצרה עד למעיינות החמים שלצד הסלאר. מעיינות טבעיים לחלוטין שנראים כמו אגם כחול – תורכיז עם מים חמים. הכל לנגד הנוף המדברי והצחיח. מקסים מקסים. החלפנו מהר לבגד ים ונכנסנו לאגם הרותח, שהתברר כרדוד ובוצי במיוחד. בחוץ נשבה רוח עוצמתית וקרירה כך שנאלצנו להשתטח באגם החם. גם זוג הגרמנים הצטרפו אלינו. לאחר כעשרים דקות יצאנו לרוח הקרה וקפאנו עד שהתנגבנו והחלפנו בגדים. כעת יצאנו לעוד כמה שעות נסיעה בשמורה בדרך חזרה לפוטרה. שביל העפר הנוח הפך לשטח קשוח וסלעי. הפעם אני נהגתי ולמזלם של ווילבר ולאורה, לי יש ניסיון בנהיגת שטח. הצלחתי להעביר אותנו בדרך הקשוחה, לשחק עם הארבע על ארבע וכל זאת על רכב ידני, כאשר כמעט אף פעם לא נהגתי על רכב ידני בשטח. נהגתי במשך כשעתיים וחצי ולבסוף הגענו למישור ודרך נוחה יותר שאפשרה נסיעה יותר מהירה. את אחת הפניות לקחתי לא טוב והבאתי את האוטו להחלקה ולדריפט רציני. לא הצלחתי לצאת מזה והאוטו כמעט הסתחרר ב-180 מעלות. באותו רגע החלטתי שנהגתי מספיק להיום ומאחר וכמעט הרגתי אותנו לאורה הסכימה להחליף אותי בנהיגה. ווילבר ולאורה דווקא לקחו את זה מאוד בקלילות ובצחוק. המשכנו בדרך והגענו לאזור מיושב יותר. עברנו ליד כפרים קטנים באמצע המדבר וליד עבודות רבות שבוצעו על הכביש. בשלב מסוים שמנו לב שיש לנו פנצ׳ר רציני באחד הגלגלים. סיומת נפלאה ליום כשנשארו לנו עוד 60 ק״מ בכדי לחזור לפוטרה. החלפנו את הגלגל בשטח, משימה לא פשוטה עם הכלים והג׳ק הגרועים שהיו ברשותינו. היה קשה מאוד לשחרר את הברגים המחזיקים את הגלגל אך לבסוף לאחר שקפצתי ובעטתי במפתח האלן הצלחנו. נסענו בזהירות את הדרך שנשארה לפוטרה והצלחנו להגיע בשלום אך כבר בחשכה. יום מתיש וארוך. נתרקנו למיטה לאחר ארוחת הערב.
התעוררנו ליום האחרון עם הרכב. להיום תכננו נסיעה קצרה צפונה לאזור צבעוני ויפיפה שנקרא סוריפלאזה. כשישים ק״מ צפונית לפוטרה. אך ראשית, היינו חייבים לתקן את הגלגל. הרזרבי ממש לא היה במצב מספק לקחת אותנו לסוריפלאזה, ובטח שלא לנוכח זה שקראנו שהדרכים היום יהיו אף קשות יותר מאתמול. הסתובבנו בעיירה קצת מיואשים, אם בקושי מצאנו דלק, מה הסיכוי שנמצא פנצ׳ריה. למרבה ההפתעה, מדריך מקומי הוביל אותנו לאחד הבתים ולמכונאי רכב שהסכים לתקן לנו את הגלגל. מזל ענק. נשארה לנו עוד כמות דלק מכובדת מאתמול והחלטנו לא לתדלק היום ולקחת את הסיכון, גם ככה אנחנו צריכים להחזיר את הרכב כמעט ריק מדלק. עלינו על הדרך צפונה והופתענו לגלות דרך מצוינת. נראה שעבדו עליה וסידרו אותה ממש לאחרונה. עלינו ועלינו בגובה ואף עברנו מעבר הרים בגובה של 5250 מטר. ברגע שעברנו את הפאס נגלה לפנינו עמק צבעוני ומדהים. מקום שנראה כמו מאדים. המשכנו בנסיעה אל העמק היפה ובקצהו התחלנו לטפס בשביל העולה להרים שבצד השני. נפעמים מהצבעים המטורפים עצרנו בצידי הדרכים לצלם. ככל שמתקדמים נגלים עוד הרים בצבעים אפילו יותר מטורפים מהקודמים. לבסוף הגענו לסוריפלאזה, ההר המפורסם והצבעוני, שבעיני שם בכיס הקטן את הר הצבעים שבפרו. עצרנו עם הרכב, שהתקשה מאוד בשל הגובה (מעל 5000 מטר), למרגלות ההר ובישלנו צהריים על סלעים שחורים בזלתיים. אפשר היה למצוא במקום את כל הצבעים האפשריים. האדום דומיננטי בנוף, כאשר על ההר עצמו חלקים לבנים, צהובים, כתומים, שחורים וירוקים. איזה מקום מטורף. לאחר האוכל נפרדנו מהמקום והתחלנו בדרך הארוכה בחזרה לאריקה. חזרנו על עקבותינו באותה דרך עפר טובה, עצרנו בהוסטל בפוטרה לקחת את הציוד ויצאנו לכיוון אריקה. הדרך הייתה מפוצצת במשאיות בוליביאניות שהסיעו סחורה אל הנמל באריקה. הצלחנו להגיע לאריקה לאחר כשלוש שעות ואפילו עם הרבה יותר דלק ממה שתכננו. הורדנו את לאורה והציוד שלנו בהוסטל, בעוד ווילבר ואני נסענו להחזיר את הרכב וחזרנו באובר להוסטל. תכננתי לקחת אוטובוס לילה אל התחנה הבאה שלי, סן פדרו דה אטאקמה. ללכת לטרמינל ולהזמין אחד שיוצא בעוד כמה שעות. לחוסר מזלי גיליתי שהאוטובוס הטוב ביותר בשבילי יוצא בעוד שעה. הזמנתי כרטיס, התארגנתי במהרה ובלחץ ונפרדתי מווילבר ולאורה. לאחר הליכה מהירה עם כל הציוד על הגב הצלחתי להגיע ולעלות על האוטובוס. נהג האוטובוס אפילו היה נחמד והסכים לי לרוץ ולקנות משהו לנשנש ולשתות לפני שנצא לדרך. סוף טוב הכל טוב, ישבתי במקומי והתחלתי בנסיעה הארוכה של 14 שעות אל סן פדרו דה אטאקאמה.

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