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התעוררנו בבוקר שלמחרת לאחר שינה נפלאה. לא פחות מחמש שכבות של שמיכות כיסו אותנו בלילה, ומסיבה מוצדקת. הטמפרטורה בפוטרה יורדת למתחת לאפס בלילות. לאחר ארוחת בוקר תכננו לצאת לדרך. זה היה יום מלא תקלות, וכעת התחלנו את הכיף. המשימה הראשונה שלנו, לתדלק את הרכב. לא משימה מורכבת במיוחד, למעט העובדה שאין תחנות דלק בכלל בקרבת מקום ובטח שלא ביישוב. המקומיים ממלאים ג׳ריקנים בכל הזדמנות שיש להם באריקה או בבוליביה וכך מתדלקים את הרכבים שלהם. אופס. לאחר חיפושים רבים, במזל מצאנו מלון שהיה מוכן למכור לנו מעט בנזין. זאת לאחר שבכל המקומות שמוכרים ג׳ריקנים עם דלק אזל כל הבנזין. קנינו עשרים ליטר במחיר מופקע שמיד התברר כאולי 15 ליטר במקרה הטוב. נאלצנו לקנות עוד נגלה כזו. למרות כל התסבוכת, הצלחנו ויצאנו לדרך לכיוון הסלאר דה סוריירי. נסענו דרומה על שבילי עפר מסודרים ונכנסנו אל השמורה ״לאס ויקוניאס״. עברנו מישורים ארוכים וצחיחים כשהרים געשיים מופיעים מדי פעם משני צידינו. ראינו עדרי ויקוניות רבות לאורך הדרך. הפרווה החומה- כתומה שלהן היא הסוואה מושלמת לסביבה המדברית. מאוד קשה להבחין בהן עד שכבר ממש קרובים. לאחר נסיעה של כשעתיים עצרנו ליד הסלאר, מישור מלח עצום ולבן שחלקים ממנו שקועים תחת המים. בחלקים הללו פלמינגואים יפים עמדו ואכלו את הבקטריות שבקרקעית. ניסיתי להתקרב ולצלם אותם אך הפלמינגואים לא פראיירים והתרחקו בכל פעם שהתקרבתי. פגשנו במקום זוג גרמנים שנוסעים בדיפנדר שהביאו מגרמניה וחורשים את כל דרום אמריקה. לאחר ארוחת צהריים קלילה על מכסה המנוע של הג׳יפ המשכנו בנסיעה קצרה עד למעיינות החמים שלצד הסלאר. מעיינות טבעיים לחלוטין שנראים כמו אגם כחול – תורכיז עם מים חמים. הכל לנגד הנוף המדברי והצחיח. מקסים מקסים. החלפנו מהר לבגד ים ונכנסנו לאגם הרותח, שהתברר כרדוד ובוצי במיוחד. בחוץ נשבה רוח עוצמתית וקרירה כך שנאלצנו להשתטח באגם החם. גם זוג הגרמנים הצטרפו אלינו. לאחר כעשרים דקות יצאנו לרוח הקרה וקפאנו עד שהתנגבנו והחלפנו בגדים. כעת יצאנו לעוד כמה שעות נסיעה בשמורה בדרך חזרה לפוטרה. שביל העפר הנוח הפך לשטח קשוח וסלעי. הפעם אני נהגתי ולמזלם של ווילבר ולאורה, לי יש ניסיון בנהיגת שטח. הצלחתי להעביר אותנו בדרך הקשוחה, לשחק עם הארבע על ארבע וכל זאת על רכב ידני, כאשר כמעט אף פעם לא נהגתי על רכב ידני בשטח. נהגתי במשך כשעתיים וחצי ולבסוף הגענו למישור ודרך נוחה יותר שאפשרה נסיעה יותר מהירה. את אחת הפניות לקחתי לא טוב והבאתי את האוטו להחלקה ולדריפט רציני. לא הצלחתי לצאת מזה והאוטו כמעט הסתחרר ב-180 מעלות. באותו רגע החלטתי שנהגתי מספיק להיום ומאחר וכמעט הרגתי אותנו לאורה הסכימה להחליף אותי בנהיגה. ווילבר ולאורה דווקא לקחו את זה מאוד בקלילות ובצחוק. המשכנו בדרך והגענו לאזור מיושב יותר. עברנו ליד כפרים קטנים באמצע המדבר וליד עבודות רבות שבוצעו על הכביש. בשלב מסוים שמנו לב שיש לנו פנצ׳ר רציני באחד הגלגלים. סיומת נפלאה ליום כשנשארו לנו עוד 60 ק״מ בכדי לחזור לפוטרה. החלפנו את הגלגל בשטח, משימה לא פשוטה עם הכלים והג׳ק הגרועים שהיו ברשותינו. היה קשה מאוד לשחרר את הברגים המחזיקים את הגלגל אך לבסוף לאחר שקפצתי ובעטתי במפתח האלן הצלחנו. נסענו בזהירות את הדרך שנשארה לפוטרה והצלחנו להגיע בשלום אך כבר בחשכה. יום מתיש וארוך. נתרקנו למיטה לאחר ארוחת הערב.
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