התעוררתי מוקדם והתחלתי לארוז את הציוד ולהכין אותו למצב טרק. גם עם כל ההכנות ומקדמי הזמן שלקחתי, מצאתי את עצמי לחוץ למצוא מונית ומגיע לטרמינל האוטובוסים דקות בודדות לפני יציאת האוטובוס. הצלחתי לעלות עליו ויצאנו לדרך. דרך של כשעתיים שמתוכן חצי השעה האחרונה יפה ביותר. נכנסים לשטח שמורת טורס דל פיינה ומתחילים לראות את הרי האבן העצומים שנמצאים בשטחה. אפילו את המגדלים המפורסמים ניתן היה לראות מהכניסה. הגענו למרכז המבקרים הראשי של הפארק שבו עמדו מאות תיירים בתור לרכוש את כרטיס הכניסה לפארק. תחילה נדרשתי לראות סרט המסביר על הכללים בפארק, לחתום על טפסים רבים ולבסוף לשלם סכום כסף מטורף. מעצבן מאוד. כל הכללים בפארק הוחמרו בגלל הישראלי המטומטם שגרם שם לשריפה לפני כמה שנים. קניתי כרטיס וחזרתי לאוטובוס, תחילת הטרק שלי היא מהתחנה השנייה של האוטובוס. האוטובוס כבר התחיל לנסוע אך אז הגיע אליו בריצה אדם שתוך שנייה אפשר לזהות כישראלי ונופף לנהג לעצור. כל הסטראוטיפים על ישראלים בטיול היו שם, תלתלים, זקן, סנדלי שורש על התיק ולהתחיל לדבר עם כל הנוסעים בקולניות. התיישב ליד שתי הולנדיות שרציתי לדבר איתן והתחיל לפטפט איתן. ברגעים כאלו בדיוק אני מנסה להחביא את הישראליות כמה שיותר וברור שלא ניגשתי אליהן אחר כך. האוטובוס הוריד אותנו לצד אגם קפוא בצבע תכלת לא אמיתי. כעת עליי לקחת קטמראן אל הקמפינג שבצידו השני של האגם. חיכיתי בתור הארוך שלא זז, ולכן החלטתי להכין את ארוחת הבוקר שלי בינתיים. כמובן שחוקי מרפי פעלו לרעתי וברגע שפתחתי את חבילת הנקניק, התחילה העלייה לקטמראן. לא הייתה לי ברירה חוץ מלדחוף אותו במהרה בחזרה לתיק וללכת למעבורת. מובן מאליו שכל מיצי הנקניק המסריחים נשפכו בשקית האוכל שלי ונמרחו על כל האוכל. בכדי להוסיף לתענוג, השייט על האגם, אשר הייתי משוכנע שכולל בכרטיס הכניסה לפארק התברר כיקר במיוחד. תוך כדי ההפלגה נפתח דוכן כרטיסים על הקטמראן אך לא היה ברשותי מספיק מזומן לתשלום ונאלצתי לשלם בדולרים. לפחות השייט היה מקסים במימי האגם הקפואים. הגעתי למחנה פיינה גראנדה. עשרות אוהלים כבר היו פרוסים על המדשאה הגדולה שמעליהם מתנשא הר פיינה גראנדה העצום והמושלג. מקום פשוט מקסים ביופיו. הבעיה העיקרית במקום הייתה הרוחות המטורפות שנשבו שם. ממש פחדתי להקים את האוהל (שגם ככה יחסית שבור מרוחות) ולתת לו להישבר סופית מהרוח. לקחתי את הסיכון, שמתי את כל היתדות ואיכשהו הוא שרד. מחנות וקמפינגים אמורים להיות במקומות מוגנים מרוח, איזה מיקום מחורבן לבחור להקים בו מחנה ראשי. לקחתי את הכובע של המוצ׳ילה שלי, הפכתי אותו לתיק קטן, לתוכו הכנסתי רק כמה דברים הכרחיים ויצאתי למסלול הראשון (הצלע השמאלית של ה-w) אל קרחון גריי. מסלול הלוך חזור, כ-12 ק״מ לכל כיוון, לצידו שם אגם גריי המדהים ביופיו. בדרך הלוך נאלצתי ללכת נגד רוח מטורפת. משבים של אולי 100 קמ״ש ויותר. בחלקים מסוימים הרוח פשוט דוחפת אותך אחורה ולא מאפשרת להתקדם. מסלול לא פשוט אך בסופו הגעתי למחנה גריי ומיד אחריו אל שתי התצפיות על הקרחון. במקום נותרה בריכת קרחונים מטורפת עם עשרות קרחונים ענקיים צפים על המים, כאשר מאחוריהם בולט קיר הקרח העצום של הקרחון. עצרתי לאכול צהריים במקום אך מיהרתי להתחיל את הדרך חזרה. מסתבר שהשביל נסגר בשעה ארבע והשעה כבר הייתה ארבע וחצי. התגנבתי אל השביל וחלפתי במחנה גריי בזריזות לפני שהריינג׳רים שמו לב לנוכחותי. בדרך חזרה הרוח הייתה לטובתי ועזרה לי להתקדם במהירות. צלחתי את הקילומטרים ללא שום בעיה והגעתי בחזרה לפיינה גרנדה. שחררתי אנחת רווחה כשגיליתי שהאוהל שלי עדיין עומד במקומו. בקמפינג היה מטבח נחמד ביותר, בישלתי ארוחת ערב גדולה והלכתי לישון.
בלילה התעוררתי פעמים רבות ממשבי הרוח החזקים שהכו באוהל המסכן שהצליח לשרוד עד הבוקר. התארגנתי מאוחר יחסית ויצאתי לדרך הקצרה של היום עם התיק הגדול עד למחנה ״איטליאנו״. כשהגעתי למקום הריינג׳ר אמר שאין מקום, לא הזמנתי מראש ועליי להמשיך ולנסות במחנה הבא. התחננתי לרחמיו ולבסוף סגרנו דיל שאני אנקה את המחנה ואאסוף זבל ובתמורה אקבל אישור להישאר שם ללילה. הקמתי את האוהל בשמחה ושוב הפכתי את כובע המוצ׳ילה לתיק קטן. עכשיו יצאתי למסלול הליכה קצר יחסית, כחמישה קילומטרים לכל כיוון (הזרוע האמצעית של ה- w) אל שתי תצפיות מטורפות: תצפית פרנסס ותצפית בריטניקו. הלכתי בעלייה בתוך יער סבוך ובוצי, נכנס עמוק יותר ויותר אל עמק ״פרנסס״. לאחר כשלושה קילומטרים הגעתי לתצפית פרנסס, שממנה אפשר היה לראות קרחון מטורף המשתפל מאחד הרי האבן העצומים. נהרות מים בקעו מהקרחון ובכל כמה דקות חתיכה ממנו נשברה ונפלה מטה תוך שהיא גורמת למפולת שלגים. הרעש של הקרחון והמים נשמע כמו מופע של ממש. המשכתי לעלות בשביל והגעתי אל תצפית בריטניקו, שנמצאת גבוה במעלה העמק. מהתצפית ישנו נוף עוצר נשימה של ממש. הרי האבן העצומים מקיפים אותך מכל עבר. לאן שלא מסתכלים ישנו קיר סלע של מאות מטרים וקרחונים בקצהו. מחזה באמת בלתי רגיל שסופסוף גורם לך להבין מדוע טורס דל פיינה כל כך מיוחד. ישבתי במקום דקות ארוכות עד שקפאתי סופית מהרוח וחזרתי למטה אל המחנה. כשהכנתי ארוחת ערב פגשתי חבורת ישראלים שהיו בתקשוב בצבא, ושהפעם היו סופר נחמדים. חוויה מתקנת. חברה מבוגרים יותר מהממוצע בגילאים בין 25-28 שמשלימים את הטיול אחרי צבא שלהם.
היום שלמחרת נחשב לקשה ביותר בטרק. יום הליכה ארוך עם המוצ׳ילה הגדולה במסלולים מעט טכניים ומונוטוניים, שבסופו מגיעים אל המחנה הראשי של השמורה ״סנטרל״. למרות כל ההפחדות והחששות הקילומטרים עברו בקלות ובמהרה. חלפתי על פני המחנה פרנסס ועצרתי במחנה לוס קוורנוס לארוחת צהריים קלילה. המחנות הללו מסודרים מאוד ובכדי לישון בהם נדרש לשלם. הם בנו במות עץ עם מתלים שעליהם ניתן להקים את האוהל, כך שמשטח האוהל נוח ומבודד יותר. לצד המחנות ישנם גם רפוג׳יואים ובתי מלון במחירים מופקעים לחלוטין, אך נוח לעצור בהם ולהשתמש בשירותים שלהם לאורך המסלול. המשכתי בהליכה הארוכה שכעת עברה ליד אגם נורדנסקיולד היפהפה. באחת הגבעות עצרתי לארוחה קלה ודפקתי שם חרופ צהריים מושלם. זה היה מטורף, התמלאתי באנרגיה ומשם ועד המחנה הצלחתי ללכת בקצב מהיר מאוד. בסך הכל ההליכה ממש לא הייתה קשה כמו שתיארו אותה. הפעם במחנה לא הייתה בעיה להישאר ללילה. פרסתי את האוהל והכנתי ארוחת ערב. במהלך ההכנות ראיתי שהמון אנשים עומדים וצופים על הגבעה. ניסיתי להבין על מה המהומה ונענתי שפומה הולכת לה על צלע ההר. בהתחלה ממש לא הצלחתי להבחין בה, אולם לפתע קלטתי את החיה המטורפת הזאת. חתול עצום בגודל של אריה שפסע בצעדים עדינים ואלגנטיים על צלע הגבעה. לא ממש הפריע לו שעשרות אנשים עומדים, בוהים בו ומצלמים. פגשתי במחנה גם שוב את חבורת הישראלים הנחמדים וביחד איתם השתלטתי על כל תאי המקלחות. הייתה מקלחת מעולה. הלכתי לישון מוקדם שכן למחרת אתעורר בשתיים עשרה וחצי בלילה ואתחיל ללכת אל התצפית של המגדלים (הטורוסים) בזריחה.
השעון צלצל ובאמת הצלחתי לקום ולהתארגן מהר. יצאתי לדרך. חושך מוחלט. רק אני צועד בלילה ומאיר את הדרך עם פנס הראש שלי. מסלול ארוך לפניי של כ-10 ק״מ בעלייה של כ-800 מטר עד לתצפית. ציפיתי שעוד אנשים יצטרפו וילכו לצפות בזריחה. שאני לא המשוגע היחיד. לחוסר מזלי גיליתי שאני צועד לבד, בכל כמה מטרים עצרתי והסתכלתי אחורה בניסיון למצוא עוד אנשים. לאחר כשני קילומטר חלפתי כבר על פני ההוסטלים ובתי ההארחה ונותרתי לבד בחושך המוחלט. החלטתי שלא כדאי לי לעלות לבד בכל זאת, אם משהו יקרה אכלתי אותה. רק לפני כמה שעות הייתה במקום פומה. חזרתי אחורה והמתנתי ליד המלון לעוד אנשים. באמת לאחר כמה דקות ראיתי שני פנסים מתקרבים לעברי וחולפים על פניי. הוקל לי. התחלתי ללכת אחריהם בחזרה במעלה השביל ומהר מאוד שמעתי אותם מדברים עברית. מיד הצטרפתי אליהם. אלו היו תומר ורות, זוג שבדיוק סיימו את השנה השישית שלהם בלימודי רפואה. ההליכה איתם הייתה מאוד נחמדה וישר התחברנו ודיברנו כל הדרך. מסיבה לא ברורה ההליכה בלילה עברה מהר במיוחד, הלכנו בעלייה כחמישה קילומטר עד למחנה הצ׳ילאנו, מילאנו מים והמשכנו במעלה חמשת הקילומטרים הנותרים אל התצפית של הטורוסים. מהנקודה הזו בעצם עברנו על חוקי השמורה, שכן השביל היה סגור עד 7 בבוקר. דילגנו מעל המחסום באלגנטיות והמשכנו להעפיל מעלה. גם הפעם הדרך עברה מהר מאוד. רגע לפני שנכנסנו אל הקילומטר האחרון היוצא משביל צדדי עצרנו לנוח. הפעם כבר ראינו פנסים רבים עולים מאחורינו, ומתבלבלים ומגיעים אלינו בטעות במקום להמשך השביל. התחלנו גם אנחנו להעפיל לחלק האחרון, העלייה הקשה והתלולה ביותר במסלול. רחוק מעלינו ראינו אורות של מטפסים שעלו לפנינו והבנו איזה גובה עוד עלינו לטפס. עלייה סופר תלולה שעל חלקה זורם נחל קטן ומרטיב את השביל. עלינו מעל קו העצים והגענו לאזור שכולו מכוסה בולדרים. לאחר בלבול קצר הצלחנו, עשינו את זה והגענו לתצפית לפני הזריחה. התיישבתי בפינה מוחבאת מהרוח הקרה וחיכיתי. השמש עלתה לאט והתחילה להחזיר את הצבעים לעולם. מולי התגלתה בריכה קרחונית צלולה ותכולה כשמעליה מתנשאים שלושת המגדלים הענקיים, הטורוסים. לחוסר מזלי היו עננים בשמיים, מה שאומר שהטורוסים לא קיבלו את הגוון הצהוב-כתום המפורסם שלהם בזריחה. נשארנו במקום כשעה וחצי עד שקפאנו לגמרי. הצטלמנו והתחלנו לחזור. לאורך הדרך למטה ראינו המוני אנשים עושים את הדרך ההופעה ועולים לתצפית הטורוסים בשעה נורמאלית. עכשיו כבר היה אור והיינו יכולים לראות את הנוף המטמטם שעברנו כשהיה חושך. יערות ירוקים שמעלים הרים מושלגים, אגמים כחולים- תורכיזיים מדהימים ועמקים מלאים בגבעות בצבעי ירוק בהיר וצהוב. כל כך יפה שהיינו חייבים לעצור בכל כמה דקות. כשהגענו בחזרה למחנה באזור השעה תשע בבוקר חלפתי על פני קבוצת הישראלים הנחמדה שאוד התרשמו שסיימתי את המסלול כשהם רק יוצאים אליו. אכלתי ארוחת בוקר נחמדה עם תומר ורות ונפרדתי מהם. הם לקחו אוטובוס מוקדם בחזרה לפורטו נטאלס בעוד שהאוטובוס שלי בעוד כמה שעות טובות. היו לי כמה שעות לחזור לישון ולהשלים את שעות השינה. מושלם. בצהריים התעוררתי, קיפלתי את הציוד והלכתי אל השאטל שבקרבת מקום. השאטל הקפיץ אותי אל הכניסה לשמורה ומשם עליתי על האוטובוס בחזרה לפורטו נטאלס. עוד ראיתי את הטורוסים מתנשאים מעל האופק לקילומטרים רבים ולבסוף נעלמים. בזאת נפרדתי סופית מהשמורה. נסיעת האוטובוס עברה מהר מאוד. הייתי עייף וישנתי את רובה. מיד כשהגעתי לטרמינל בפורטו נטאלס קניתי כרטיס למחר לאל קלפאטה שבארגנטינה. חזרתי אל הקמפינג הנחמד שלי בפורטו נטאלס והתאחדתי מחדש עם כל הציוד. בעיירה אכלתי לארוחת ערב פיצה ענקית כצ׳ופר על הטרק והתקלחתי כמו שצריך. פגשתי שני ישראלים מפוחדים שיוצאים למחרת לטרק והרגעתי אותם לפני היציאה עם כל הפרטים. למחרת משכתי את הזמן באוהל והתארגנתי לאט. כרגיל הגעתי למצב של לחץ זמן מטורף. הפעם כבר הייתי לגמרי בטוח שאפספס את האוטובוס, רצתי לכל עבר בכדי לתפוס מונית. בסוף עליתי על מונית ציבורית ורצתי אל האוטובוס. הגעתי כבר באיחור של חמש דקות בדיוק כשאוטובוס התחיל בנסיעה איטית לאחור. רצתי אל הנהג ונופפתי בכרטיס שלי. הנהג והעוזר הסתכלו אחד על השני בעצבים אבל עצרו. העמסתי את התרמיל ועליתי לאוטובוס. זהו, יצאתי לדרך, התחנה הבאה העיר אל קלפאטה וקרחון פריטו מורנו.
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