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הריינג׳רים שלימד איך לנפות זהב. קיבלתי ממנו את כל הכלים הדרושים והלכתי לנסות בעצמי, כל זהב שמוצאים מותר לשמור אותו לעצמך. אני הולך להיות עשיר. לאחר כשעה של ניפוי לא נהייתי עשיר אך כן הצלחתי למצוא פתית זהב (שזה יותר ממה שרוב האנשים מצליחים!). זאת הייתה חוויה כיפית מאוד ומזכירה קצת דייג… המון עבודה והמון זמן בשביל רגע קצר של הצלחה, שממש לא יהיה שווה הרבה כסף. עצם העובדה וההרגשה שהצלחת בעצמך היא זאת ששווה הכל. לאחר מכן המשכתי בדרכי והגעתי למעבר ההרים. בשל העשן והראות המוגבלת הנוף לא היה מרשים מידי, אך ההרים הגבוהים שמסביבך והשלוגיות שמנקודות אותם בהחלט נותנים אווירה של פסגה. המשכתי לצידו השני של המעבר בדרך לשמורה. עצרתי לצהריים מאוחרים בעיירה טלקיטנה שנמצאת כ-120 מייל לפני הכניסה לשמורה. העיירה יושבת על חיבור של שלושה נהרות גדולים והצליחה משום ששימשה תחנת עצירה באמצע הדרך של קו הרכבת בין סוארד לפיירבנקס. בנוסף, העבודה שהיא היישוב הקרוב ביותר לדנאלי המתוירת לא גורעת מכך. האווירה בעיירה ממש חיה, המוני אנשים הולכים הלוך ושוב. בתי עץ צבעוניים ומגוון מסעדות בכל הסוגים. אכלתי פיצה והמשכתי בדרכי לדנאלי. הגעתי לכניסה לשמורה בסביבות תשע בערב, שכמובן כבר הייתה סגורה ורק חיכתה לאחרוני המבקרים שיצאו מתחומיה. עצרתי לישון בחניון בצד הדרך מחוץ לתחומי השמורה, בגשר מעל נהר הנננה הגועש. בבוקר שלמחרת נכנסתי לשמורה והגעתי למרכז המבקרים. זו הייתה הפעם הראשונה בטיול שבה העובדה שלא הזמנתי מראש הייתה בעיה. דנאלי הוא פארק מאוד מתויר שמגיעים אליו כ-600 אלף תיירים בשנה, ועכשיו זה שיא העונה. אל הכביש שבלב השמורה אפשר להיכנס רק עם אוטובוסים ששייכים לפארק. החוויה בדנאלי שונה לחלוטין מזאת של וורנגל סנט אלייאס. כאן יש תיירים, והרבה. הפארק מחזיק בצי אוטובוסים ענק שלא היה מבייש אף חברת הסעות גדולה. הקמפינג שבו תכננתי לישון היה כבר תפוס ומוזמן מראש וכמו כן כל האוטובוסים שיוצאים ללב השמורה. לא הייתה לי ברירה ונאלצתי להזמין למחר. הזמנתי את האוטובוס המוקדם ביותר שיוצא בחמש ורבע בבוקר. אין מה לעשות, הנסיעה עד לוונדר לייק שבלב השמורה לוקחת חמש שעות. נוצר לי מצב שפתאום יש לי יום שלם להעביר עד הנסיעה ללב השמורה. חזרתי לרכב ונסעתי הכי רחוק שמותר להיכנס עם רכב פרטי. הגעתי לנהר שנקרא סאבג׳ ריבר ועשיתי בו מסלול הליכה של כ-3 מייל. מזג האוויר היה מעונן וקר ולפחות התנחמתי בעובדה שלא נכנסתי ללב השמורה ביום כזה, בו בטוח לא הייתי יכול לראות את האטרקציה המרכזית – הר דנאלי (או בשמו הקודם הר מקינלי), ההר הגבוה ביותר בצפון אמריקה (6120 מטר). המסלול שעשיתי הולך לאורך הנהר, עובר בגשר מעליו וחוזר מהגדה השנייה. מסביבך הכל ירוק מאוד, אין כבר עצים, רק שיחים נמוכים והמון המון מים. בולדרים ענקיים ומצוקים וולקניים מזדקרים משני הצדדים. מקום באמת מרשים. חזרתי לכניסה לשמורה והלכתי לאכול צהריים. מרוב שהשמורה מתוירת, בכניסה אליה נבנתה ממש עיירת תיירים מלאה בחנויות ומסעדות מכל הסוגים. קצת מצחיק לראות גלידריות, פיצריות ופאבים פשוט באמצע שומקום. חזרתי לשמורה והפעם הלכתי לבדוק את מרכז המבקרים הענק ומה שיש לו להציע, ומיד לאחר מכן יצאתי למסלול הליכה שיוצא ממרכז המבקרים. לא חישבתי נכון את המרחקים והשביל התברר כאחד הרבה יותר ארוך ממה שתכננתי. אבל מה, כבר הייתי באמצע והחלטתי להמשיך. מזל שבאלסקה אין חושך אף פעם. המסלול עלה וטיפס ליער הסבוך בעצי אשוח גדולים ופרחים ורודים וצהובים. ניגנתי מוזיקה מהטלפון כדי לא להפתיע איזה דוב או מוס. לאחר כשעתיים סיימתי את השביל, חזרתי לרכב ונסעתי לחנייה בה ישנתי בלילה הקודם להכין ארוחת ערב וללכת לישון מוקדם. הייתי מאוד ממושמע והפעם אין מצב שאאחר לאוטובוס, קמתי בארבע ורבע בבוקר, התארגנתי בזריזות, השארתי את הרכב במצב לילה ונסעתי לתחנת האוטובוסים. עליתי עליו עם עוד המון תיירים מנומנמים ונהג אוטובוס אפילו יותר ישנוני בשם מייק. הדיל הוא שהנהג מסיע אותנו במשך חמש שעות עד לוונדר לייק, עוצר בדרך במספר מקומות, ובכל מקום שרואים משהו מעניין צועקים לו סטופ והוא יעצור. ראינו בדרך דובת גריזלי עם שני גורים, מוס, איילים והמון ארנבים בצידי הדרך. בלב השמורה אין כמעט מסלולים מסודרים, ולכן מותר פשוט ללכת להיכן שרוצים בטבע הפראי ולתפוס טרמפים עם האוטובוסים שמסתובבים על הכביש של הפארק. הגעתי לוונדר לייק, אגם קרחוני מקסים שהנוף מסביבו משתקף באופן מושלם במימיו. אבל כמו שאלוהים ברא את צרפת ובשביל לאזן את היופי פיזר שם צרפתים, את וונדר לייק מאבטחים כמויות לא יתוארו של יתושים. זה המקום הכי נוראי מבחינת יתושים שנתקלתי בו בטיול, שהזכיר לי במידה רבה את החוויה הנוראית שהייתה לי עם מידג׳ס בסקוטלנד. הוונדר האמיתי באגם הוא איך כל כך הרבה יתושים מצליחים להתקיים באותו מקום. המצב כל כך נוראי שקשה לצלם תמונה מכיוון שבשנייה שאתה עוצר, 20 יתושים נוחתים על היד שלך. לקחתי דוחה יתושים חזק מאחת התיירות וקיוויתי שהוא יעזור (עזר חלקית). התחלתי ללכת לכיוון נקודה מפורסמת שנקראת בריכת ההשתקפות. זאת הנקודה ממנה ניתן לצלם את הר דנאלי משתקף במים בימים שמשיים. בבוקר מזג האוויר היה נראה יחסית בהיר, אך ככל שעברו השעות עננים כיסו את ההרים הגבוהים ולא ניתן היה לראות את הר דנאלי. רק כשלושים אחוז מהמבקרים זוכים לראות אותו (או חלק ממנו) למרות גובהו המטורף מעל ההרים שמקיפים אותו (קטנטנים- רק הרים של 4 קילומטר). בקיץ כמעט תמיד ישנם עננים שמסתירים אותו. הלכתי כשלושה מייל עד בריכת ההשתקפות, אך לא הצלחתי לצלם את תמונת ההשתקפות. לא משנה, הנוף משם עדיין היה יפה. לאחר מכן התחלתי לטייל ברגל במשך שעה וחצי לאורך כביש השמורה. טיול כיפי במיוחד, רק טבע מדהים עוטף אותך. נאספתי ע״י אוטובוס ונסעתי למרכז המבקרים איילסון, שנמצא בלב השמורה (אליו יש גישה רק באוטובוס). הכנתי ואכלתי ארוחת צהריים. בזמן הזה, השמיים פתאום התחילו להתבהר, על אף הפסימיות של הריינג׳רים בתחילת היום, וזכיתי להיות מבין 30 האחוזים שרואים את ההר. אמנם ראיתי רק חלק מפסגתו, אך זה הספיק בשביל לקבל פרופורציות על המפלצת הזאת שנקראת הר דנאלי. פשוט לא יאומן. הרים עצומים נמצאים סביבו והוא פשוט פי 2 בגובה מעליהם. בחיים לא ראיתי דבר כזה. החלטתי להישאר עוד בשמורה לנוכח השיפור במזג האוויר ויצאתי ממרכז המבקרים לשביל שעולה לפסגת אחד ההרים הקרובים. מסלול קשה ומאתגר אבל מאוד מתגמל. על הפסגה מצאתי מקום לשכב, לאכול שוקולד ולנוח עם הנוף המטמטם. בגלל שהתבהר, פתאום נגלה יופיו האמיתי של הפארק, שהוסווה בעננים בבוקר. כל הר בצבע אחר. בגבהים האלו אין עצים, רק טונדרות צבעוניות. הר שחור, הר אדום, הר ירוק, כולם אחד ליד השני. ממש שונה מוורנגל סנט אלייאס, שבבוקר הייתי בטוח שיראה אותו דבר כמו דנאלי. אחד הרגעים המושלמים בטיול, לשכב על הטונדרה בפסגה שמכוסה בדשא ירוק בהיר, לאכול קיט קט, לנמנם צהריים ולהשקיף על הנוף. רוח נעימה ושקט מוחלט. רק אני ואין שום דבר קילומטרים מסביבי. אין הרבה רגעים כאלו בחיים. חזרתי למרכז המבקרים ועוד הספקתי לראות סרט על מה שדרוש בכדי לטפס את הר דנאלי, שנחשב הר מאוד מאתגר בשל הטמפרטורות שבו וכמויות השלג. עליתי על אוטובוס בחזרה לכניסה לשמורה. נסיעה של ארבע שעות לפחות. הפעם נהג האוטובוס היה נחמד בהרבה וסיפק הסברים מעניינים ותצפיות יפות על עוד חיות בדרך. הוא אפילו הוריד אותנו מהאוטובוס בכדי שנוכל ללכת ולהתרענן כרבע שעה לאורך המסלול, ואסף אותנו מהדרך. כשהגעתי לכניסה לשמורה השעה הייתה כבר תשע וחצי בערב. הספקתי עוד ללכת ולאכול ארוחת ערב לפני שחזרתי לחנייה הקבועה והלכתי לישון. ביום למחרת תכננתי להמשיך צפונה ולהגיע לעיר פיירבנקס.

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