שמורות גרנד טיטון וילווסטון

יצאתי מוקדם בבוקר לדרך אחרי שתדלקתי. גם היום עמד לפניי יום נסיעה ארוך. שעתיים נסיעה בדרכים קטנות ומפותלות לגרנד טיטון. חציתי בחזרה את הגבול לוויומינג. נאלצתי לעבור את הטיטון פאס, שהיה תלול עד כדי כך שלרגע חשבתי שהאוטו לא יסחוב. משם נסיעה בירידה עד לעיר התיירותי ג׳קסון שבכניסה לשמורה. מג׳קסון נוסעים על כביש ירוק ויפה כשלפתע נפתח המראה על הגרנד טיטון. הרי אבן עצומים שבראשם שלגים וקרחונים. המיוחד במקום הוא ההבדל הדרסטי בין המישור בו נמצא הכביש אל ההרים הבומבסטיים שבמרחק נגיעה ממך. מאוד יפה אבל אחרי שהייתי באלסקה, ג׳ספר, באנף וגליישר קצת התאכזבתי. אחרי ביקור במרכז המבקרים החלטתי שהמראה מהכביש מספיק ולא צריך לצאת להליכה. חסכתי זמן ונסעתי ישירות לשמורת ילווסטון שצמודה לגרנד טיטון. כל הדרך לילווסטון עוברת כשההרים הענקיים משמאלך. ילווסטון הוא כבר סיפור אחר לגמרי. אחת השמורות המתויירות ביותר בארה״ב. כמעט כולו נמצא בתוך לוע הר געש שהתפרץ לפני מיליוני שנים. בשל כך, ילווסטון מלאה בתופעות וולקניות ותרמיות. נביעות חמות, ביצות גופרית וגייזרים. נסעתי במעלה הנהרות שיורדים מהר הגעש עד לאזור הגייזרים הידוע בו נמצא הגייזר ״אולד פייט׳פול״. גייזר שמתפרץ פחות או יותר כל 90 דקות. הצלחתי לצפות בו ביחד עם עוד אלפי תיירים שהתקבצו על הספסלים מסביבו. באמת מחזה מיוחד לראות את עמוד הקיטור והמים החמים בגובה 50 מטר שיוצא מהאדמה. לאחר מכן עשיתי טיול הליכה באזור הגייזרים שבו עשרות בריכות מבעבעות עם מים רותחים וגייזרים בכל הסוגים והגדלים. הייתי בעל מזל והצלחתי לראות את ״גרנד גייזר״ מתפרץ, דבר שקורה אחת לכמה ימים. לאחר מכן חזרתי לאוטו ונסעתי לעוד אזור תרמי מעניין שבו היה אגם מלא במים רותחים ומבעבעים שהעלו עננת אדים אדירה לשמיים. מהאגם יצאו שני מפלי מים רותחים שנשפכו ישירות לנהר הסמוך. ליד האגם מדרגות אבן חומות שנראות לא אמיתיות. מאוד מזכירות את פמוקלה שבטורקיה. חזרתי לאוטו והתחלתי לנסוע מערבה. לפני שיצאתי מהשמורה נתקלתי בפקק תנועה מטורף שנוצר מכמה באפאלו שהחליטו לעמוד על הכביש ולא לזוז. רק אחרי שרכב ריינג׳רים הגיע והפעיל עליהם את הסירנות הם הועילו בטובם לזוז. עברתי את הגבול למונטנה והשמש כבר התחילה להחשיך. לפניי 8 שעות נסיעה עד לנקודת העצירה הבא בעיר מוסקוו שבאיידהו, שם אבקר את ויקטוריה שפגשתי באלסקה בקולג׳ שלה. התחלתי לנסוע וחזיתי בעוד אחת מה שקיעות היפות בחיי. הכתום הבוהק של השמש צבע את ענני הסערה שבאופק וגרם למראה אלוהי בשמיים. מהר מאוד אותם עננים השיגו אותי. חוויה שתיזכר לכל החיים להיכנס לסופת ברקים שכזו. גשם וברד יורדים חזק כל כך שהוישרים באוטו לא מצליחים לעמוד בקצב. עשרות ברקים בכל שנייה ומבעד לענני הסערה חריצים צבועים בכתום של שקיעה. לאחר כחצי שעה חלפה הסופה והמשכתי לנסוע מערבה בכבישי מונטנה עד 11 בלילה. עצרתי לישון בחניון משאיות לא רחוק מהעיר מיזולה. למחרת נשארו לי כחמש שעות נסיעה עד למוסקוו.

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