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במהלך הלילה לא הפסיק ולרדת גשם ורוח חזקה נשבה. לא ייחסתי לזה יותר מידי חשיבות, הייתי עסוק רק בניסיון להתחמם בתוך שק השינה. עם זאת, בבוקר הבנתי שהמצב לא טוב. יצאתי מהאוהל אל תוך ענן. כמעט ואי אפשר היה לראות כלום. אין ברירה, קיפלתי את הציוד שלי והתחלתי ללכת. התקשתי מאוד למצוא את השביל והתברברתי במשך כחצי שעה בניסיונות נואשים למצוא סימון או טביעת רגל. לבסוף הצלחתי ועליתי על דרך המלך. לפניי עמדה כעת עלייה תלולה וסלעית. שני מעברי הרים שעליי לעבור כאשר בחוץ הראות כמעט אפסית וגשם/שלג שלא מפסיק לרדת. עליתי לאט לאט, התקדמתי בקצב איטי וחלפתי על פני הפאס הראשון, ״פאסו אוסטרליה״. בדרך מהפאס הראשון לשני הלכתי על שלוגיות רבות. ידעתי שמאוד מסוכן ללכת עליהן ושמתחתיהן יכולים להיות מים זורמים או חללי אוויר. הזהירות הרבה שלי לא ממש עזרה ובאחד הצעדים הרגל שלי נפלה היישר לתוך כיס אוויר ענקי מתחת לשלג. מצאתי את עצמי מרוח על השלג, עם חצי גוף בתוך כיס האוויר כשהמוצ׳ילה הגדולה עליי. עדיין לא ברור לי איך לא שברתי כלום מהנפילה הזו. קמתי על הרגליים יצאתי מהשלג והגעתי לפאס השני ״פאסו דה לוס דיינטס״. מכאן המסלול היה פשוט עד לפיצול הדרכים: להמשיך דרומה אל אגם ווינדהונד או מערבה להמשך הטרק. חשבתי המון עם עצמי ושיניתי את דעתי בכל רגע. האם עליי לעשות את זה או לא. האם לצאת אל הלא נודע ואל סוף העולם. הגעתי לפיצול עם דעות חלוקות, לא היה לי מושג מה נכון לעשות. מזג האוויר הנורא והנפילה הטו את הכף לטובת המשך הטרק וויתור על האגם. ישבתי על אבן בפיצול ושוב עברתי עם עצמי על היתרונות והחסרונות. בסוף המשפט חיים רק פעם אחת ניצח. לקחתי נשימה עמוקה ויצאתי רועד מפחד דרומה, לכיוון האגם והבקתה שלידו. ידעתי שבדרך יהיה עליי לטפס לפסגת הר גבוה וכן לרדת בירידה תלולה בתוך יער סבוך, וכל זה בדרך שהסימון שלה לוקה בחסר אם קיים בכלל. מזג האוויר באופק עשה רושם טוב. שמיים כחולים ושמש. היה עליי לעבור רק 12 ק״מ עד לבקתה. לאחר כקילומטר הליכה הגעתי אל נקודת קמפינג בין העצים. להפתעתי הרבה היו שם אנשים. שאלתי אותם על הבקתה ושמחתי מאוד לשמוע שהם בדיוק חזרו משם ושהדרך אפשרית. קיבלתי מהם טיפ מצוין להשאיר את האוהל בקמפינג כך לצאת אל הבקתה עם שלושה קילו פחות. במילא אשן בתוך הבקתה. הקשבתי לעצתם והשארתי את האוהל מוחבא בתוך שיח. המשכתי בדרך, טיפסתי לפסגתו של הר בטינלי שממנו ראיתי את הצד השני של הרכס, את האגם שאליו אני הולך ואפילו את האוקייאנוס בצידו הדרומי של האי. ירדתי מהפסגה לאורך שביל סלעי, תלול ומסוכן אשר לבסוף התמתן והפך לנורמלי. עדיין הייתי מעל קו העצים, רק שלג, אבנים, אגמים ופסגות גבוהות היו ליידי. השביל מסומן ע״י מערומי אבנים (רוג׳ומים) בכל כמה מאות מטרים, שמראים את הדרך. לאחר כמה קילומטרים נכנסתי ליער. תחילה הוא היה יפה מאוד, שביל פסטורלי בין העצים, אך מהר מאוד הדרך הפכה לסיוטית ורק התפללתי לצאת מהיער. השביל הפך לבוץ מוחלט, הסימונים כמעט ולא היו קיימים ותוואי הדרך השתנה לירידה תלולה ביותר. טביעות הרגליים שבבוץ היו הסמן העיקרי שלי, ובכל פעם שחשבתי שהלכתי לאיבוד, חזרתי לנקודה בה ישנם טביעות רגליים או סימון על אחד העצים. לא ייאמן אבל הצלחתי לשרוד ולצאת מהיער. כעת נותרו לי רק עוד ארבעה קילומטרים בהליכה מישורית על אדמה בוצית וביצתית. מרגיש כאילו הולכים על ספוג כל הדרך. הפעם השביל סומן ע״י מקלות גדולים שננעצו באדמה. הכל ירוק מסביב. מלא בריכות מים ונחלים. אין זכר לאף אדם, ממש הרגשה של סוף העולם. לבסוף הצלחתי להגיע לבקתה מותש לחלוטין. לא ידעתי למה לצפות ובמבט ראשון מאוד התאכזבתי. מבחוץ המקום נראה עלוב ומוזנח. דעתי השתנתה מאוד כשנכנסתי פנימה וראיתי מזרונים, מיטה, מטבח וגולת הכותרת תנור עצים. בתוך הבקתה היו חרוטים שמות וכתובות החל משנות השמונים ועד ממש לאחרונה. כמו כן היה שם ספר מבקרים שבו אפשר לכתוב וכן ציוד רב שמטיילים השאירו שם, כמו חכות וציוד דיג, כלי מטבח ואפילו ערסל. הדלקתי את תנור העצים והתחממתי לצידו במשך דקות ארוכות. את ארוחת הערב הכנתי ואכלתי גם כן לצידו. העיקר שחם ונעים. הרגשה חלוצית מטורפת עברה בי. אני לבד וזה הבית שלי להלילה, בית בסוף העולם על אמת. כנראה שאני האדם הכי דרומי כרגע בכל יבשת אמריקה. פשוט מטורף.
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