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קמתי מאוחר יחסית לאחר לילה מצוין. לפתע שמתי לב שלאחר שנרדמתי הגיעו זוג לקאמפינג שהתארגנו כעת לגיחה אל הבקתה. יצאתי מעט אחריהם והלכתי את המרחק הקצר בחזרה אל שביל הטרק המעגלי. כשהגעתי לסימון הייתי כל כך מבסוט. עשיתי את זה! העזתי והגעתי לסוף העולם, איזו חוויה משוגעת. אם הצלחתי לחזור לכאן שאר הטרק הוא בדיחה בשבילי. התחלתי ללכת בהמשך שביל הטרק המעגלי. פתאום הסימונים טובים לאחר הניווט הבלתי אפשרי לאגם. הלכתי לצד הרי רכס השיניים הענקיים כשלשמאלי נפרש נוף מקסים של אגמים ויערות. השביל לא היה פשוט ובכמה מקומות אפילו טכני ביותר. דבר שגרם להתקדמות להיות איטית מאוד. עצרתי כמה פעמים לנוח לצד האגמים היפים ולבסוף יצאתי מהאזור והתחלתי להעפיל לכיוון פאס נוסף, פאסו ונטארון. העלייה לא הייתה קשה אך הירידה מיד אחריו הייתה מעט טריקית ומחליקה. מקום מלחיץ שכן משמאלך ירידה תלולה מאוד עד לעמק שלמטה. לפחות הנוף מההר היה מצוין. החלטתי למשוך את היום עוד קצת ולהתקדם עוד כמה קילומטרים כדי להקל את היום שלמחרת. בקצה הירידה שוב מגיעים לעמק מלא אגמים. חלפתי על פני ״לגונה הרמוסה״ והמשכתי להתקדם לצד אגם ענקי וכחול. במימי האגם השתקפו פסגות הסלע הענקיות מצידו השני. בשלב הזה, ככל שהתקדמתי המסלול הפך לפחות ופחות מסומן וממש הגיע למצב שהיה בלתי אפשרי להישאר על השביל הנכון. למזלי הקאמפינג שלי לא היה רחוק והצלחתי להגיע אליו לאחר מעט התברברויות. עצרתי לצד נחל שוצף שמצידו השני פסגות סלע מושלגות. איזה מקום לישון בו. המקום היפה ביותר לאוהל שישנתי בו בטיול.
הלילה היה נפלא, ישנתי מצוין והתעוררתי לצד הנחל המדהים. החלטתי להאריך קצת את היום ולסיים את הטרק כבר באותו ערב. לא נשאר לי עוד מרחק רב לעבור, פחות מעשרה קילומטרים בסך הכל. עם זאת, מדובר בקילומטרים המאתגרים ביותר עד כה. אצטרך לטפס ולעבור את ״פאסו וירג׳יניה״, לרדת בירידה תלולה מאוד וללכת כארבעה קילומטרים בתוך יער סבוך. התחלתי להתקדם ולמרבה ההפתעה הקילומטרים הראשונים דווקא היו פשוטים מאוד להליכה. הבעיה הייתה שביום הזה הסימונים של השביל כבר כמעט ולא היו קיימים. אולי נגמר להם הצבע והכוח לסמן את השביל. היו חלקים רבים שהלכתי לאיבוד ובמשך דקות רבות הייתי צריך לנווט את דרכי בחזרה לשביל. סיימתי ללכת בעמק לצד האגמים והגעתי בחזרה אל רכס השיניים. התחלתי בטיפוס הקשה והתלול למעבר ההרים וירג׳יניה. משימה מאוד לא פשוטה, בעיקר בשל העובדה שהשביל היה רטוב ובוצי מאוד. העלייה הרגישה כאילו שלא נגמרת, יצאתי מקו העצים והמשכתי לטפס במעלה דרדרת האבנים הגדולה. באמצע העלייה פגשתי את המטיילים שהמליצו לי להשאיר את האוהל מוחבא בשיחים. המשכתי ללכת ולבסוף הגעתי לפאס. מחזה מדהים נגלה לפניי. לפתע ראיתי שוב את צידו השני של הרכס ואת תעלת ביגל הכחולה והגדולה, כמו גם את ההרים המושלגים והיפייפיים בצידה השני של התעלה. ממש מתחתיי הופיעה ה״לגונה דה לוס גוונאקוס״ הכחולה. מראה באמת מיוחד במינו. ישבתי על הפאס, אכלתי צהריים ונחתי קצת מהעלייה המתישה. כשהתחלתי את הירידה בצידו השני של הפאס, הבנתי שזו לא ממש ירידה פשוטה. ממש אנכית למטה שכולה דרדרת אבנים. הירידה לקחה לי זמן רב ונעליי התמלאו באבנים דוקרניות. בנוסף, באמצע הירידה הקשה השמיים התקדרו והתחיל לרדת גשם חזק. הדבר האחרון שהייתי צריך עכשיו. הצלחתי לסיים את הירידה והלכתי לצד אגם גוונאקוס עד לסופו, שם נמצא הקמפינג ושם עצרו המטיילים הצ׳יליאנים. אני החלטתי להמשיך את ארבעת הקילומטרים לכביש ובחזרה לפורטו וויליאמס. לא ידעתי למה אני מכניס את עצמי. קטע הדרך הקשה ביותר בטרק ואולי הקשה ביותר בכל הטיול. גשם זלעפות המשיך לרדת והרטיב אותי לחלוטין. המעיל וכיסויי הגשם לא עזרו, הייתי ספוג. בנוסף כל מגע בעצים או בשיחים שופכת עליך כמויות מים אדירות. התחלתי ללכת בתוך היער. הפעם לא רק שהמסלול לא היה מסומן, הוא בקושי היה קיים. נאלצתי להסתמך רק על עקבות בבוץ לפניי. בנוסף, עצים רבים קרסו על המסלול וחסמו אותו. אין ברירה, נאלצתי לטפס ולעבור בדרכים חלופיות. ממש הרגשה של לבד ביער. בוץ מטורף, גשם וקור אימים. אין טעם לחשוב על זה, רק צריך להתרכז בלהתמיד בכיוון ההליכה ולחפש עקבות בבוץ. ההתקדמות הייתה איטית ביותר ונראתה כאילו לא נגמרת. קצב של קילומטר בשעה. הלכתי בירידה לצידו של נחל שמפלס המים בו עלה בצורה משמעותית בגלל הגשם החזק. נאלצתי לחצות אותו פעמיים. כבר בפעם הראשונה, החלקתי ונפלתי למים. שתי נעליי נרטבו לחלוטין. במעבר המים השני כבר ויתרתי מראש והלכתי בתוך המים. לבסוף לאחר סבל רב, יצאתי מהיער, כל זה בשביל לגלות שנשארו לי עוד שני קילומטרים ללכת בדרכים לא מסומנות. ההליכה כאן ממש לא הייתה פשוטה יותר. שקעתי בבוץ עד הברכיים. כל העקבות שמסביבי היו עקבות של פרות. לפחות ראיתי את תעלת ביגל במרחק שנתנה לי רפרנס כמה עוד נותר לי ללכת. לא ייאמן אבל אחרי מאמץ רב הצלחתי! לאחר כשעה וחצי ירידה בבוץ עברתי גבעה ולפתע הוא הופיע לפניי, הכביש!! איזו הרגשה נפלאה. עשיתי את זה, מגיעה לי טפיחה ענקית על השכם. התחלתי ללכת לכיוון פורטו וויליאמס, שהמרחק אליה הוא עוד שבעה קילומטרים. התפללתי לטרמפ. כמה מכוניות ואוטובוס פשוט חלפו על פניי. לא היה להם מושג איזו חוויה קשה עברתי בשעות האחרונות. לבסוף עצר לי לטרמפ תושב אחת החוות שבאזור שהסיע את אמא שלו מסנטיאגו שבאה לביקור. הרכב הכי מתפרק וישן שנסעתי עליו בחיי. טנדר שפשוט כל חתיכה בו שחוק ומקולקל. הרכב הצליח לסחוב אותנו עד לחווה של אותו אדם, שם החלפנו רכב ועלינו על הג׳יפ שלו שלקח אותי עד לתחנת המשטרה של פורטו וויליאמס. נרשמתי במשטרה שסיימתי את ההליכה וחזרתי אל הקאמפינג של סיסיליה. החלטתי שהלילה אתפנק ואשן בהוסטל שלה. במזל הייתה מיטה פנויה. הגעתי עם כל חפציי להוסטל, מרוט, רטוב ומותש לחלוטין. הורדתי את כל חפציי ועשיתי את אחת המקלחות הכיפיות בטיול. איזה יום מטורף. סיימתי את הערב עם ארוחת ערב באחת המסעדות שבה קיבלתי ערימת בשר וציפס בגודל לא הגיוני שהספיק לי ליומיים. כמובן שגם יין עם שוהי ההוסטל האחרים לא הזיק.
נותרו לי עוד יומיים למעבורת, היום היה ה-5 והמעבורת הבאה לפונטה ארנאס היא ב-7. את היום שלמחרת ניצלתי להירגעות בפורטו וויליאמס. התעוררתי מאוחר, התרחצי, אכלתי ארוחת בוקר וחזרתי אל הקאמפינג. המחירים בהוסטל לא הגיוניים, לילה אחד היה גם ככה מעל התקציב. התיישבתי בספריה הציבורית של האי, אחד המקומות היחידים בהם יש ווייפיי. העברתי שם שעות. ניצלתי את היום גם להסתובב בעיירה וללכת לפורטו אוקיקה, כפר אינדיאני קטן הצמוד לפורטו וויליאמס. מקום מאוד לא מרשים, אפילו מרכז מבקרים אין שם. במהלך היום פשוט לא הצלחתי למצוא היכן קונים את הכרטיסים למעבורת של מחר, הסתובבתי בין מקום למקום וכלום. רק לבסוף מצאתי את הסוכנות, אך היא כבר הייתה סגורה. ביום שלמחרת הלכתי אל הסוכנות והצלחתי לקנות כרטיס. להפתעתי המעבורת הייתה עתידה לצאת שעה וחצי לאחר מכן, מיהרתי לקמפינג לקפל ולארוז את חפציי. נפרדתי מסיסיליה שהקפיצה אותי אל הרציף ועליתי על המעבורת. התחנה הבאה, חזרה לעיר פונטה ארנאס.
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