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ביום שלמחרת החלטתי לנסוע ולבקר בעיר ואלפראיסו, העיר השנייה בגודלה בצ׳ילה, שמפורסמת ברחובותיה הצבעוניים. קרלה וג׳ולייט שמחו להצטרף אליי ואליהן הצטרף גם חואן, ונצואלי שעובד בהוסטל שלהן. חואן הכיר את הדרך היטב, לקח אותנו במטרו אל טרמינל האוטובוסים והעלה אותנו על האוטובוס הנכון. לאחר כשעה וחצי הגענו לואלפראיסו. מאוד הופתעתי מהדרך, שבה הנוף היה דומה באופן מדהים לנוף בארץ בחודשי הקיץ. בחנתי את המפה ובאמת גיליתי שאני פחות או יותר בקו הרוחב ההופכי לזה של ישראל, הגיוני. במבט ראשוני, ואלפראיסו ממש לא נראתה כמו שדמיינתי אותה, כעיירה צבעונית על ההרים למול הים. אלא כעיר גדולה, אפרורית וענייה. מתחנת האוטובוס הלכנו כעשרים דקות ברגל ועברנו בין שווקים שונים, שקצת נתנו הרגשה שחזרתי לפרו. הבלאגן שלט ברחובות ללא ספק. ואלפראיסו היא העיר שנפגעה הכי הרבה מההפגנות בצ׳ילה וממש היה ניתן לראות הריסות ברחובות. לבסוף הגענו לאזור העתיק והיפה של העיר. המקום שלשמו באתי, והאזור הזה באמת נראה כמו פנינה מיוחדת. בניינים קולוניאליסטיים שמורים להפליא שעליהם משקיפות גבעות עם בתים קטנים וצבעוניים. בעיר ישנה אוניברסיטה ענקית ולכן ישנה אווירה סטודנטיאלית וצעירה ברחובות. העיר התפרסמה וגדלה בעיקר במאה ה-19 ותחילת ה-20 כתחנת המעבר המרכזית בדרך לצפון אמריקה לאחר הקפת קייפ הורן. בניית תעלת פנמה ומלחמת העולם הראשונה פגעו מאוד בעיר שהוזנחה וקמה לתחייה מחדש רק בשנים האחרונות. לאחר שאכלנו צהריים במסעדה מקומית, החלטנו להתפצל, אני רציתי ללכת לסיור הליכה חינמי בעיר בעוד שהאחרים העדיפו ללכת לחוף. הסיור היה מצוין וסופר מקצועי. שלוש שעות שהמדריך שדבר אנגלית רהוטה לקח אותנו בין הרחובות הקטנים וסיפר את סיפורה של העיר. עלינו בפניקולר קטן וטיילנו בין שתי הגבעות המפורסמות של העיר שנראות פשוט כמו סט של סרט. בתים צבעוניים והמוני ציורי גרפיטי מדהימים בכל מקום. במקום להילחם בתופעה, העיר מעודדת אותה ומזמינה אמני גרפיטי מכל העולם לבוא ולקשט את העיר. התוצאה מרהיבה. צירי קיר עצומים, מדרגות שנראות כמו פסנתר, בניינים מחופשים ופתגמים ושורות משירים מעטרים את הרחובות. וכל זה עם בתי קפה וחנויות אמנים נחמדות. חוויה. הסיור ארך כל כך הרבה זמן שכבר לא הייתה לי ברירה אלא לחזור לטרמינל האוטובוסים ולפגוש שם את השאר. חזרנו לסנטיאגו ובערב נפגשתי שוב עם קרלה וג׳ולייט. הפעם אכלנו אראפס, מאגל ונצואלי שנראה כמו הכלאה בין פיתה לבוריטו. נחמד.
ביום שלמחרת לא היו לי תוכניות מיוחדות, די מיציתי את מרכז סנטיאגו. החלטתי ללכת ולראות סופסוף את הסרט שאני רוצה לראות כבר שבועות, פורד נגד פרארי. זו הפעם הראשונה שמצאתי קולנוע שמקרין את הסרט ולכן הייתי חייב לנצל את ההזדמנות. נסעתי במטרו אל האזור החדש של העיר ויצאתי היישר לתוך קניון משוגע. קניון ענק, יותר גדול ומודרני מכל קניון בארץ. כזה שנותן פייט לקניון המטורף שראיתי באדמונטון שבקנדה. ארבע קומות שבכל אחת לפחות מאה חנויות ועל הגג אזור אוכל עם סטקיות. לחוסר מזלי בקניון היה את הקולנוע הלא נכון, והקולנוע שלי היה כמה מאות מטרים משם. יצאתי מהקניון והלכתי ברגל, מסביבי בנייני מגורים גבוהים וסופר מודרניים. הקולנוע שלי היה מבנה עצום בגודל של קניון בפני עצמו עם עשרות אולמות. הסרט היה מצוין! לא סתם חיכיתי כל כך הרבה כדי לראות אותו. הצלחה. הערב היה ערב כריסמס. קבעתי לעשות אותו עם קרלה וג׳ולייט בהוסטל שלהן. כל אורח הכין מנה מהמדינה שלו, אני החלטתי להכין סלט ירקות ישראלי. הספקתי להדליק חנוכיה מאולתרת עם שני ישראלים שפגשתי בהוסטל שלי לפני שהלכתי לארוחת החג החגיגית. הכריסמס הראשון שלי. האוכל היה מצוין ומגוון והסלט שלי זכה להצלחה מרובה. קצת מוזר, אין שום טקסים או ברכות, ישר אוכלים. הייתי בטוח שיהיו כמה מנהגים דתיים. לאחר האוכל נפרדתי מקרלה וג׳ולייט כמו שצריך. כנראה שלא אראה אותן שוב בזמן הקרוב. לפנות בוקר כבר אמשיך לטיסה שלי לפונטה ארנאס (אף אחד לא רוצה לטוס בערב הכריסמס ולכן הטיסה הייתה זולה משמעותית). הצטלמנו ביחד ואפילו קיבלתי מהן במתנה ספר קל לתרגול ספרדית. עצוב להיפרד, ממש הפכנו לחבורה. נהג אובר אסף אותי בשתיים בלילה ולקח אותי לשדה התעופה. לאחר בידוק מאוד לא יעיל שהזכיר מדינות אחרות בדרום אמריקה עליתי למטוס. התחנה הבאה, פונטנה ארנאס שבפטגוניה!
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You can not imagine simply how much time I had
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