סלטה וסן אנטוניו דה קוברס

הגענו לסלטה בשעות הערב. קלאודיה ואני החלטנו ללכת אל ההוסטל ברגל, על המפה זה לא נראה מרחק כל כך רציני. כבר שמגיעים לעיר מבינים שמדובר במשהו הרבה יותר גדול מחוחוי. הרחובות רחבים בהרבה והבניינים מסודרים ומטופחים יותר. הלכנו דרך שדרת סן מרטין החוצה את פארק סן מרטין הענק שבעיר. בכל פינה דוכני מזון שמוכרים נקניקיות מסוגים שונים במחירים זולים כל כך שזה מגוחך. העיר מפורסמת בנקניקיות שלה המוכונות ״סופרפאנצ׳ו״. סופסוף ארגנטינה האמיתית. כמויות האנשים שהסתובבו ברחוב לא הגיוניות. כאילו שאנחנו באמצע יריד או פסטיבל. ההליכה להוסטל לא הייתה קלה אך לפחות איפשרה לנו לקבל מושג ראשוני לגבי העיר. קיבלנו קוך בהוסטל שנראה כמו עליית גג מוזרה. חום אימים. החלטנו שלמחרת נעביר יום רגוע בסלטה ונראה את האטרקציות השונות בעיר. לסיום היום המצוין הלכנו למסעדת הסטייקים המפורסמת וייאחה ג׳אק והזמנו סטייק ענקי. ככה חוגגים את ארגנטינה כמו שצריך. סטייק פשוט מטורף, ענק, רך ובדיוק במידת העשייה שאני אוהב. תענוג!! כנראה הסטייק הטוב שאכלתי בחיי.
את היום שלמחרת התחלנו בהליכה אל פארק סן ברנארדו. זהו הר גבוה שממוקם ממש ליד מרכז העיר. עלינו לפסגתו ברכבל. חום שלא יתואר ולחות מטורפת, אין מצב לטפס את אלף המדרגות בחום הזה. גם לשבת בתוך קרונית הרכבל הסגורה לא היה תענוג בחום הזה. בפסגת ההר פארק סופר יפה ומטופח. נחל מלאכותי עם מיליון מפלים אומנותיים חוצה אותו לכל אורכו. גם בית קפה נחמד. ממש הרגשה של אירופה, לא יכול להיות שזאת אותה יבשת עם בוליביה. מהפסגה נשקף מראה מקסים מהתצפית של כל העיר סלטה ושל הרי האנדים הרחוקים והגבוהים. גם הבריזה נעימה ונותנת הפוגה מהחום המעיק של העיר. הסתובבנו בפארק וחקרנו אותו לעומקו ולאחר מכן התחלנו לרדת בשביל ההליכה. שביל של 1000 מדרגות (הפעם לא ספרתי בעצמי). לאורך השביל מונחות 12 תחנות עם ציורים של ישו, כמו 12 התחנות שעבר ישו בויה דולורוסה. זו די ויה דולורוסה לאנשים שעולים למעלה בחום הזה, אז הפעם זה מאוד הגיוני. לבסוף לאחר השביל המפותל והמיוער הגענו למרכז העיר. שדרות ענקיות עם בניינים ספרדיים אותנטיים ומטופחים. הרחובות מלאות בחנויות ומסעדות פלצניות שקצת מזכירות את תל אביב. הגענו אל הכיכר המרכזית של העיר. גם כאן כמו בכל הערים הדרום אמריקאיות, הכיכר בעצם מרובעת ומשמשת כפארק ציבורי גדול עם מזרקה במרכזו. הקתדרלה המפורסמת של העיר הצבועה בורוד נמצאת מצידו האחד של הכיכר ומבני ממשל וחנויות יוקרה משלימות את כל היקיפה. נשארנו מספר דקות בכיכר והאזנו ללהקה מקומית שניגנה שם מוסיקה ארגנטינאית מצוינת. התקררנו במזגן, אכלנו באחת המסעדות במרכז ולאחר מכן ביקרנו במוזיאון הארכיאולוגיה של ההרים הגבוהים. מקום בו מאוחסנות עוד שלוש מומיות של ילדי אינקה שנמצאו על הרי הגעש הגבוהים. חברים של חואניטה שראיתי באריקיפה. המוזיאון היה קצת מאכזב והציג את הסיפור בצורה הרבה פחות טובה מזה באריקיפה. המשכנו את היום בחיפוש אחר סוכנויות השכרת רכבים. האטרקציה בה סלטה הכי מפורסמת היא רכבת המכונה ״הרכבת לעננים״, אשר עולה למרומי האנדים ומגיעה לעיירה סן אנטוניו דה קוברס, כ-150 ק״מ מהעיר. הרכבת עצמה סופר יקרה ולכן קלאודיה ואני החלטנו להתחכם, לשכור רכב ולנסוע בעצמנו לאורך תוואי הרכבת. לאחר מספר סוכנויות הצלחנו למצוא את האחת. הזמנו רכב ליום שלמחרת וחזרנו שמחים ומאושרים אל ההוסטל. את היום סיימתי בהליכה בפארק סן מרטין וקניית אוכלי רחוב שונים ומשונים. האוכל שאהבתי ביותר הוא צ׳ורו, נקניקיות ענק שנעשית על המנגל אותה פורסים ושמים בלחם עם ירקות ורטבים. מצוין.
את היום שלמחרת התחלנו בהתרגשות בהוסטל לאחר לילה חם ומיוזע. אכלנו בוקר ויצאנו מיד אל סוכנות השכרת הרכב. קיבלנו ניסאן מיקרה קטנטנה וחדשה (או בשמה המקומי ניסאן מארצ׳) ויצאנו לדרך. איזה כיף לנהוג שוב ועוד על מכונית ידנית, כל כך התגעגעתי. יצאנו מהעיר והתחלנו להעפיל בכביש המתפתל אל ההרים. גם כאן הנוף הירוק והמיוער התחלף מהר מאוד לנוף מדברי צחיח מפוצץ קקטוסים. הצבעים לאורך הדרך פשוט לא אמיתיים. בכל פעם מגיעים לנקודה וחושבים שזהו, זה לא מסוגל להיות יפה יותר והופס, נקודה עוצרת נשימה אף יותר. בחלקים רבים הכביש לא היה במצב טוב ואף הפך למקטעים של דרך עפר. זה לא ממש עניין אותנו והמשכנו לשעוט במעלה הכביש. חלפנו על פני שני יישובים קטנטנים בדרך ועברנו את הפאס שבגובה 4080 מטר. מצידו השני המתינו לנו המישורים הגדולים והמדבריים של ארגנטינה. במהרה הגענו אל היישוב סן אנטוניו. מקום נידח ופריפריאלי למדי שקם לתחייה רק כאשר הרכבת מגיעה ופורקת את מאות התיירים במקום. מיד המשכנו אל האטרקציה המרכזית במקום, גשר הרכבת המפורסם. גשר עצום מימדים שנבנה עם הקמת המסילה. הגשר בגובה של 61 מטרים על עמודי ברזל עצומים וכל כך צר בחלקו העליון שלנוסעי הרכבת נדמה שהם נוסעים באוויר. על מנת להגיע לגשר נאלצנו לנסוע מספר קילומטרים בדרכי עפר לא פשוטות בכלל. אזורים השייכים לכביש 40 שאליהם נאמר לנו במפורש בסוכנות השכרת הרכב שאסור לנו לנסוע. לא ממש הקשבנו אליהם, העברנו את המיקרה למצב ג׳יפ והסתערנו על הכביש. במהרה התברר לנו מדוע חברות הרכב אוסרות על כניסת הרכבים, באמת דרך לא פשוטה. עמדנו במשימה והגענו למרגלות הגשר. מפלצת ברזל שנראית למרחקים. כשעצרנו שמנו לב שאחת הטאסות של המיקרה נעלמה ונפלה בדרך. אופס. קיווינו לטוב שנמצא אותה בחזור וביחד עם שני טרמפיסטים ארגנטינאים שאספנו נסענו בחזרה בדרך העפר וחיפשנו אחר הטאסה. בשמחה גדולה הטאסה חיכתה לנו בצד הדרך וגרמה לכולנו לצעוק מהתרגשות כשנמצאה. הצלחנו לשוב לסן אנטוניו מבלי שום נזק לרכב (ועם הטאסה שנמצאה)! בחניון בסן אנטוניו פגשנו בגרמני שבנה קראוון על המשאית שלו ומטייל כבר שבע שנים בעולם. משוגע. טיפסנו במעלה שביל צר אל כנסייה קטנה על גבעה המשקיפה לעיירה ויצאנו לסיבוב במרכז העיירה ובחלקה העתיק. מקום שומם למדי, שגם הוא מזכיר במעט את סן פדרו וטילקארה (רק עם הרבה הרבה פחות אנשים). לאחר צהריים במקום התחלנו בדרך חזרה לסלטה. עברנו שוב את מעבר ההרים ועצרנו בכפר הקטן והארכיאולוגי טסטיל. מקום שבו נצמד אלינו כלב רועה גרמני ענק ונחמד, דבר שקלאודיה שמפחדת מכלבים אהבה במיוחד. המשכנו בנסיעה במורד ההרים, שהתחילו לקבל מעטה עננים דק בפסגותיהם. הגענו בחזרה לסלטה בשעות הערב ומיד נסענו אל הטרמינל בכדי לקנות כרטיסים לאוטובוס הבוקר שלמחרת אל העיירה קפז׳אטה. החזרנו את הרכב ששימש אותנו נאמנה וחזרנו אל ההוסטל המצ׳וקמק והחם שלנו ללילה בפעם האחרונה. התחנה הבאה למחרת, העיירה קפז׳אטה.

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