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בשלושת הימים הבאים במסעי אראה מחזות לא אמיתיים. מקומות שאם היו מראים לי לפני הייתי חותם על כך שהם בכוכב אחר או נערכו בפוטושופ. בין הימים המיוחדים בדרום אמריקה באופן כללי. קמתי מהמיטה הנוחה והתארגנתי ליציאה לטיול. גיליתי שברוב חוכמתי הצלחתי לשכוח את בגד הים והמגבת שלי על החבל בסן פדרו שבצ׳ילה. הספקתי לקנות מים, חטיפים ומגבת נוספת והלכתי לסוכנות. אסף אותי גי׳פ לנד קרוזר אמריקאי גדול ומטופל. כל הקבוצה כבר הייתה בפנים, ליאם וקיה, זוג אוסטרלים, ניק הבריטי וטמיקה הקנדית. קרלוס המדריך ואפריין הנהג ישבו מקדימה. קרלוס, שנראה כמו בוליביאני מהרחוב, דיבר אנגלית מצוינת ומובנת. איתנו בקבוצה נסע גם ג׳יפ לנד קרוזר נוסף עם הודים, קוסטה ריקנים וזוג פרואני שוויצרי. התחנה הראשונה בה עצרנו היא בית הקברות לרכבות. מרחק נסיעה קצרצר מחוץ לאויוני. אויוני מהווה תחנת מעבר לרכבות שיוצאות מהמכרות הבוליביאנים באזור פוטוסי ונוסעות אל הנמלים בחוף הצ׳יליאני (אריקה ואנטפגסטה). לצד המסילה, שעדיין פעילה, נמצאים עשרות קטרי קיטור שהוצאו משימוש לפני שנים, כאשר בוליביה עברה לשימוש בקטרי דיזל. מחזה סופר סוריאליסטי לראות את עשרות הקטרים אחד אחרי השני מחלידים להם באמצע המדבר. לאחר כמה תמונות אומנותיות של הקטרים המשכנו בדרך. הגענו לכפר קטן קצת לפני הכניסה אל הסלאר. תושבי הכפר מתפרנסים מליקוט המלח, עיבודו לצרכים שונים וייצואו לחו״ל. ביקרנו באחד המפעלים הקטנים והביתיים וראינו כיצד מטפלים במלח ואוטמים אותו בשקיות. כל הבתים שבכפר עשויים גם הם ממלח. לבני מלח שהוצאו כמו שהם מהמדבר. אפשר לראות עליהן את שכבות המלח והאבק לאורך אלפי השנים. בכפר הקטן ליקטנו וקנינו חפצים שונים שישמשו אותנו לתמונות המפורסמות מהסלאר לאחר מכן. יצאנו לדרך וסופסוף נכנסנו אל הסלאר דה אויוני. מקום עצום מימדים שכולו קרקע שטוחה ולבנה לחלוטין ממלח. לפני אלפי שנים המקום היה אגם, אך עם הפיכת האזור למדבר האגם התייבש ונותר רק המלח הרב. לא ניתן לתאר כמה שמדבר המלח הזה עצום – הוא גדול בשטחו משטח מדינת לבנון וכמעט בגודל של ישראל. המרחבים עצומים עד כדי כך שלא ניתן לראות את צידו השני של המדבר – בשל עקמומיות כדור הארץ. כשמסתכלים לאופק רואים רק לבן ואוויר חם העולה למעלה ויוצר אשליה אופטית של מים. עצרנו לאחר כמה ק״מ על הסלאר, במקום שהיה פעם מלון והיום משמש כמסעדה וכמקום עצירה לג’יפים הרבים שחורשים את הסלאר. במקום ישנם עמודים עם עשרות דגלים של מדינות מכל העולם. סופר מגניב לראות את הדגלים הצבעוניים על רקע הלבן האינסופי. אפילו דגל ישראל כיכב שם בגאווה. המלח עצמו יבש ומחוספס מאוד. בשל הקריסטליזציה שלו המלח מסודר במרקם של משושים ומתומנים אינסופיים, עד קצה האופק. סביב המבנה סודרו להן גם ערימות מלח קטנות ויפות. המשכנו בנסיעה והעמקנו עד למרכז הסלאר. המקום המושלם לצילום תמונות הפרספקטיבה המפורסמות של הסלאר. בזבזנו כשעה וחצי לצילום ובימוי כל התמונות המשוגעות שבהן האנשים נראים קטנטנים לצד חפצים יומיומיים רגילים. השתמשנו בבובות דינוזאורים, פחיות פרינגלס, מטאטא וכו. יצא מגניב. משם המשכנו בנסיעה על הסלאר והגענו אל ״אי הדייגים״ שבמרכזו. מקום עוד יותר הזוי וסוריאליסטי. מקום שנראה כאילו נתנו לילד לתכנן איך יראה ומה יהיה מסביבו. מדובר על אי סלעי ענק שבולט פתאום לעשרות מטרים של גובה למעלה מהמדבר הלבן. האי מפוצץ בקקטוסי ענק בני אלפי שנים. אין מצב שזה אמיתי, בטוח דמיינתי את זה. הלכנו לנו על האי, עלינו לפסגתו וראינו את הנוף המשוגע ממנו. קקטוסים לכל עבר והלבן האינסופי של הסלאר. לאחר שעזבנו את האי עצרנו בכדי לראות את השקיעה על רקע הסלאר. השילוב בין צבעי השקיעה ללבן האינסופי שוב נותן תחושה לא אמיתית. של חלום מוזר, אולי לקחתי איווסקה בטעות. המשכנו בנסיעה והגענו אל ההוסטל שלנו ללילה הזה. הוסטל מדהים שהתעלה על כל הציפיות. מיטה נוחה ומסודרת. אפילו מים חמים היו במקלחת. מפונקים שכמונו.
למחרת התעוררנו מוקדם והתארגנו ליציאה. נתקלנו בהוסטל בדיפנדר שאיתו נוסעים שני בריטים כבר במשך שלוש שנים וחורשים את העולם. קול. עזבנו את אזור הסלאר והתחלנו לנסוע דרומה ולעלות בגובה. שוב אותה תופעה כמו בצ׳ילה, ככל שעולים בגובה המדבר הצחיח נהפך לירוק יותר. עצרנו בעמק יפה שבו זורם נחל ושוהות בו מאות למות. המשכנו להעפיל בגובה והתחנה הבאה שלנו הייתה עמק הסלעים, מקום מטורף ובו פזורים אלפי בולדרי ענק. עצרנו גם בתצפית על האגם הצהוב, אגם שבו הגופרית אמורה לצבוע את מימיו בצהוב. הגענו בתקופה יבשה ולכן הוא נראה לבן ומלחי למדי. המשכנו עד לאגם נוסף ובו ראינו להקות ענק של פלמינגואים טוחבים את ראשם במלח. שוב, ברגע שהתקרבנו אליהם, הם התרחקו מאיתנו. חיה פחדנית. עשינו עצירת צהריים נחמדה על הסלעים וצ׳ינצ׳ילה מקומית הגיחה לקראתנו והסתקרנה מהאוכל. לאחר מכן המשכנו להיילייט של היום. לגונה קולורדה – האגם הצבעוני. עוד מקום מדומיין לחלוטין שנוגד את חוקי הפיזיקה. אין מצב שהמקום הזה קיים באמת. אגם ובו המים אדומים, צהובים, לבנים וכחולים. הכל באגם אחד, מבלי להתערבב אחד בשני. ואם זה לא מספיק, להקות ענק של פלמינגואים נמצאות במים ולמות אוכלות את העשב לצידי האגם. פשוט וואו. הלכנו על שביל גבוה המשקיף על האגם ובכל רגע אתה צובט את עצמך ואומר שאין מצב שזה אמיתי. שוב לקחתי איווסקה. עברנו בין נקודות התצפית השונות וירדנו ללכת על חופי האגם לצד המים האדומים כמו דם. המים מקבלים את צבעם האדום מעצות שגדלות במים ואת שאר הצבעים ממינרלים שונים. אין ספק שזה אחד המקומות המיוחדים שהייתי בהם בחיי. חזרנו לג’יפים והמשכנו בנסיעה אל נביעות טרמיות גדולות. הפעם, בשונה מהגייזרים בצ׳ילה, היה מדובר בבריכות בוץ גדולות המבעבעות ברעש עוצמתי ומעלות ענני אדים. המשכנו בנסיעה והגענו אל ההוסטל השני והאחרון לטיול. גם הפעם, למרות שהובטחו לנו תנאים בסיסיים, ההוסטל היה מצוין וצויד במיטות נוחות ושמיכות עבות. לארוחת ערב קיבלנו פיצות ויין בוליביאני נהדר. בילינו את שאר הערב במעיין החם שבקרבת ההוסטל. בחוץ קפוא אבל בתוך המים ארבעים מעלות. כיף במיוחד לראות את הכוכבים מתוך המים הרותחים. גם כאן זיהום האור לא גדול במיוחד ואפשר לראות את שביל החלב ואלפי כוכבים נוספים. נשארתי הרבה יותר מידי זמן במים הרותחים, ולבסוף כשיצאתי ובשילוב עם היין, הרגשתי ממש לא טוב ומסוחרר. מזל שההוסטל היה קרוב.
התעוררנו ליום האחרון לטיול, עזבנו את ההוסטל ונסענו אל תחילתו של מדבר אטאקאמה, הממשיך אל תוך צ׳ילה. עכשיו כבר היינו ממש קרובים לגבול. לאחר עצירה אזור יפה של המדבר, הגענו אל הנקודה האחרונה בטיול. תצפית על שני אגמים. האגם הלבן והאגם הירוק. האגם הלבן מקבל את צבעו ממלח בעוד האגם הירוק מקבל את צבעו מנחושת וברזל במים. שוב הגענו בזמן לא טוב שהרוח הרימה בוץ מהקרקעית שלא איפשר לנו לראות את צבעו הירוק והמיוחד. זהו, צילמנו תמונה קבוצתית ונפרדנו. כעת חלק מהקבוצה עוברת את הגבול לצ׳ילה, בעוד אני והחלק השני חוזרים בחזרה לאויוני. הנסיעה בחזרה הייתה משעממת וארוכה למדי. עצרנו במספר כפרים קטנים והגענו לאויוני בשעות אחרי הצהריים לאחר כשש שעות נסיעה. לא בזבזתי את הזמן ומיד חזרתי אל ההוסטל. באופן מוזר, לא היה אף אחד בהוסטל לקבל את פניי. לאחר כמה דקות של חיפוש אחר מישהו פשוט לקחתי את חפציי והלכתי אל טרמינל האוטובוסים שמעבר לפינה. קניתי כרטיס ועליתי על האוטובוס שיעמיק אותי אל תוך בוליביה הנפלאה. התחנה הבאה שלי, העיר פוטוסי.
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