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בשונה מהאוטובוס הצפוף לפוטוסי, הפעם הייתי לבד לגמרי באוטובוס לסוקרה. סופר מוזר להיות באוטובוס לבד. לצערי, במהרה הבוליביאנים התחילו למלא אותו מתחנות שונות, כאשר הנהג עצר בתחנה ביציאה מהעיר ולא היה מוכן להתחיל בנסיעה עד שנגיע למספר נוסעים מסוים. דבר שעלה לי בעיכוב של שעה. לא טוב, זה אומר ששוב אגיע לעיר שאני לא מכיר בלילה. במהרה הגעתי לסוקרה. לקחתי מונית מהטרמינל אל ההוסטל שלי ששוב היה ממוקם במרכז העיר העתיקה. ידעתי שסוקרה היא עיר מסודרת ויפה, אך ממש לא דמיינתי אותה ככה. מקום שנראה לחלוטין כמו עיר אירופאית יפה. בניינים עתיקים וסופר שמורים ברחובות צרים ומטופחים. כמויות עתק של כנסיות, שערים, פסלים ובניינים ציבוריים יפים. ממש הרגשה של בירה. סוקרה צמחה מאוד והפכה לבירה בו זמנית עם פוטוסי. המעמד העליון והבינוני בבוליביה העדיף לגור בסוקרה ולא ב״עיר הכורים״ פוטוסי. על כן סוקרה צמחה להיות העיר ״הלבנה״ והמשכילה בבוליביה. מהעיר הזו גם החלו המחאות נגד השלטון שבסופו של דבר הפכו למלחמת העצמאות הבוליביאנית. בשל העובדה שהאנשים בסוקרה תמיד היו משכילים והוגי דעות שעשו צרות לשליטי בוליביה לאורך השנים, לפני כמה עשרות שנים החליט הנשיא להעביר את הבירה ללה פאז. אולם, לדעת הרבה בוליביאנים סוקרה היא עדיין ותמיד תהיה בירת המדינה. התמקמתי בהוסטל ויצאתי אל הכיכר המרכזית לאכול ארוחת ערב. בכיכר המרכזית הייתה הופעה גדולה שמשכה אליה המוני אנשים.
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עליתי על אוטובוס מקומי ונסעתי תחילה אל הפארק קרטאסיקו. פארק עקבות הדינוזאורים. במהלך חפירות ועבודות חציבה, נתקלו פועלים לפני כשלושים שנה בתופעה מוזרה, שכבת סלע עצומה שהתרוממה השמיימה ועליה מאות עקבות. מהר מאוד המקום הפך למפורסם וחובבי דינוזאורים ומומחים הגיעו על מנת לחקור את הדבר. על הסלע קרוב ל-3000 עקבות מכ-9 מיני דינוזאורים שונים. הגדול מסוגו בעולם. תחילה עמדנו בתצפית על הסלע מהפארק ולאחר מכן ירדנו ממש אל הסלע, נגענו בו וראינו את טביעות הרגליים מקרוב. בין העקבות נמצאות גם טביעות רגליו של טיטאנוזאור, הדינוזאור הגדול ביותר שידוע שהיה קיים (באורך של 36 מטר). בפארק עצמו נמצאים פסלי דינוזאורים בגדלים אמיתיים, נחמד בעיקר לילדים. עליתי על האוטובוס בחזרה לסוקרה. כעת היה עליי לטפל בעניין חשוב לפני שאעזוב את סוקרה. להוציא דולרים לקראת ארגנטינה. הכסף בארגנטינה בעייתי מאוד, ומשיכת כסף מהכספומט מחייבת אותך בעמלה גבוהה במיוחד. על כן צריך להגיע עם כסף מזומן רב ולפתור את הבעיה באקסצ׳יינג׳ים. עברתי בין הכספומטים השונים עד שלבסוף מצאתי אחד עם דולרים. עמדתי במשימה, הפקדתי את הדולרים בתיק שבהוסטל והמשכתי להסתובב בעיר. הלכתי אל פארק סימון בוליבר, הפארק הראשי בסוקרה. בפארק, כמו העיר, מתוכנן ומסודר להפליא. שבילים יפים עם ספסלים רבים ועצים גבוהים, כאשר באמצע הפארק ממוקם מגדל אייפל הבוליביאני. גרסא מוקטנת של מגדל אייפל שכן כן, גם הייא תוכננה על אייפל בכבודו ובעצמו. מסביב למגדל התאספו קבוצת נערים שעשו ביניהם תחרות ראפ. כל הפארק היה מפוצץ דוכנים ועגלות לכל סוגי אוכלי הרחוב הקיימים. התפתיתי וקניתי נקניקיה בלחמניה וסוג של לחם בוליביאני מוזר ומתוק. חזרתי להסתובב במרכז העיר, בין הרחובות היפים והכנסיות, ואף נתקלתי בחתונה ענקית באחת מהן. מחוץ לכנסייה חיכה סוזוקי חדש ונוצץ, עטוף בבלונים. כנראה מתנה לחתן ולכלה. מרחתי את הזמן ולבסוף הגיע הערב והיה עליי לצאת אל האוטובוס. לקחתי מונית אל הטרמינל ועליתי על אוטובוס הלילה דרומה לטריחה. כך התחילה עוד נסיעה מעצבנת ביותר. הוקפתי בתינוקות מעצבנים, משענת הכסא שלי הלכה אחורה כל הזמן והאוטובוס היה ישן ומתפרק. למרות כל אלו הצלחתי לישון מצוין באוטובוס. כנראה שהייתי ממש עייף. לאחר כשתיים עשרה שעות הגענו לעיר טריחה שבדרום בוליביה. בטרמינל ביררתי מתי האוטובוס לארגנטינה ונחרדתי לגלות שהיום בערב זו האופציה היחידה, אחרת יהיה עליי לחכות עוד חמישה ימים. נסעתי אל ההוסטל שהזמנתי במרכז העיר והסברתי להם את הסיטואציה. קיבלתי אישור להישאר רק לשעות היום ואף ללכת להתקלח על חשבונם.
טריחה התבררה כהפתעה הגדולה של בוליביה. ציפיתי לעיר מחוז נידחת ופריפריאלית וקיבלתי עיר יפיפיה, מודרנית, מסודרת ורגועה. אזור טריחה ידוע מאוד בכרמים וביין שלו. באמת בכל מקום אפשר למצוא חנויות יין ואף מינימרקטים המוכרים את היין מהאזור. מצאתי לי כמה אטרקציות נחמדות בעיר, אך בשל העובדה שהיה זה יום ראשון, גם המוזיאון הפליאונטולוגי וגם היקב, בהם רציתי לבקר, היו סגורים. במקום, הסתובבתי לי ברחובות העיר ובכיכר המרכזית. הכיכר מפוצצת ביונים ובילדים קטנים המאכילים אותן. מסביב מסעדות ובתי קפה נחמדים. הלכתי אל בית התיאטרון המרשים מאוד ולאחר מכן אל הכנסייה הכחולה והמפורסמת של העיר. לא הייתי יכול להיכנס פנימה שכן בידיוק נערכה המיסה של יום ראשון בפנים. לא נורא, גם המראה מבחוץ מקסים. המשכתי להסתובב בעיר, ראיתי קבוצות ילדים משחקים כדורגל אולמות והלכתי אל התצפית המפורסמת של העיר – תצפית כוס היין. על גבעה לא הרחק ממרכז העיר, נבנה מגדל תצפית יפה בצורת כוס יין. כוס היין הגדולה בעולם. עליתי עליה וצפיתי בנוף הנהדר הנגלה של כל העיר נריחה והעמקים שמסביבה. חזרתי לכיכר המרכזית, ולאחר ארוחת צהריים וגלידה טובה חזרתי לשנ״צ נחמד בהוסטל. במהלך ארוחת הצהריים שכחתי כסף במסעדה, ובמזל נזכרתי כמה דקות לאחר מכן והצלחתי לקבל אותי בחזרה. זאת הייתה יכולה להיות באסה רצינית. עזבתי את ההוסטל בשעה שש ונסעתי אל הטרמינל שבקצה העיר. הצלחתי לקנות את הכרטיס הלפני אחרון לחוחוי, איזה מזל. קניתי אוכל וממתקים לדרך וזהו, עליתי על האוטובוס היפה והמסודר לחוחוי שבארגנטינה. בוליביה הייתה נהדרת בסך הכל! כנראה שראיתי בוליביה שונה מאוד מזו שלפני כמה שבועות. שוב המזל שיחק לי. ארגנטינה, הנה אני בא.

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