מרגוג’י

המיניבוס אסף אותי כבר בחמש בבוקר. איזה כיף לקום בשעות כאלו. עליתי עליו ואחרי נסיעה של שעתיים בה ישנתי היטב הגעתי פתאום למרגוג׳י. המיניבוס הוריד אותי בכניסה לעיירה והמשיך לדרכו. השעה הייתה שבע ורבע בבוקר. הלכתי עם כל הציוד לכיוון ההוסטל שהזמנתי. העיירה עדיין הייתה ישנונית והחנויות רק התחילו להיפתח. כבר ממבט ראשוני אפשר להבין שלא מדובר בממלכת תיירות כמו פורטו דה גאלינס, אלא במשהו הרבה יותר מקומי. הגעתי להוסטל שלי. הוסטל נקי, שמור וחדש יחסית המנוהל ע״י זוג ברזילאים חמודים. השארתי שם את כל הציוד, המיטות עדיין היו תפוסות. קיבלתי הסבר ארוך ומפורט מבעל ההוסטל על העיירה ועל החופים השונים. החלטתי לנצל את הזמן וכבר לצאת לסיבוב הכירות עם המקום. לבשתי את בגד הים שלי ויצאתי אל העיירה. חיפשתי מקום לאכול ארוחת בוקר קלה ומעט להתעורר. עדיין היה מאוד מוקדם. מצאתי מאפייה קטנה שבה הגישו מאכל ברזילאי מטוגן שהכיל גבינה ובשר, שדווקא היה טעים מאוד. המשכתי אל חוף העיירה. כחמישים מטרים מאחורי המאפייה והכיכר המרכזית נמצאת רצועת החוף האדירה של מרגוג׳י. רצועת חוף חולית באורך של קילומטרים רבים, הנמתחת צפונה ודרומה גם הרבה אחרי העיירה. החול לבן וקריבי ומסביב עצי קוקוס ענקיים. בבוקר ישנו שפל, דבר אשר מרחיק את המים ומגדיל משמעותית את רוחב החוף הלבן. מול העיירה עוגנות במים הרדודים עשרות סירות מכל הסוגים. סירות דייג, ספינות תיירים, יאכטות וקטאמרנים. כשישה קילומטרים מול החוף ישנו ריף טבעי שממנו מבצבצים סלעים גדולים מחוץ למים. בשעות השפל, הסלעים יוצרים בריכות טבעיות יפות אליהן מגיעות סירות רבות מהעיירה אשר מביאות למקום תיירים סקרנים. במקרה פגשתי במקום ארבעה ישראלים שחזרו מאחת ההפלגות לבריכות והמליצו על כך בחום. המשכתי לטייל בעיירה והלכתי לאורך החוף הארוך צפונה ודרומה במטרה למצוא את נקודות החמד במקום. לאחר טבילה במים החמימים ושחייה בין הסירות העוגנות החלטתי לעבור אל החופים הצפוניים, כפי שהמליץ בעל ההוסטל. הלכתי למרכז העיירה ובאמת הצלחתי למצוא את המיניבוסים הצפופים שמשמשים כתחבורה הציבורית של המקומיים להגיע לכפרים שבאזור. החלטתי ללכת לחוף ״בארה גרנז׳ה״, חוף שממנו בשעות השפל יוצאת לשון חול ענקית אל תוך הים, מרחק של כשני קילומטרים לתוך הים. הואן עצר לי באמצע הכביש הראשי, ״כאן זה בארה גרנז׳ה״ הוא טען. ירדתי והתחלתי ללכת לכיוון הים. נכנסתי לעיירה קטנה והלכתי ברחובותיה. יכולתי לשמוע כבר את קולות הגלים, אך לא למצוא את הירידה לחוף. לבסוף מצאתי פתח בין שני בתים שבו הצלחתי לראשונה לראות את המים הטורקיזיים והמדהימים. עמדתי על רמפת בטון ממנה ראיתי את כל רצועת החוף וסופסוף זיהיתי את החוף המדובר. עוד כמאתיים מטר מצפוני חול לבן והמוני מתרחצים שנהנים במים עד קצה האופק. מיהרתי ללכת למקום. היה שווה. פשוט גם עדן. חול לבן ומים פשוט בצבעים לא אמיתיים. נותן פייט יפה למלדיבים. כמובן שעצי קוקוס גבוהים מעצימים עוד יותר את המראה היפה. בתוך המים הציבו נדנדות מקושטות וערסלים צבעוניים. שמשיות רבות ומוכרים המציעים מים קרים ואסאי מעגלות משופצרות. הלכתי צפונה לאורך החוף שנדמה שאינו נגמר לעולם. אחת לכמה מאות מורים עצרתי בצל, טבלתי במים והמשכתי בחיפוש אחר הספוט המושלם. לבסוף התיישבתי בצילו של עץ קוקוס גדול ויפהפה שגדל בנטייה כלפי הים. המקום היווה נקודת צילום מרכזית להמוני אנשים שעמדו בתור רק כדי להצטלם עם העץ בפוזות דרום אמריקאיות טיפוסיות. המקומיים מנצלים את המצב ומיקמו במקום חפצים רבים שניתן להצטלם כשהם מופיעים ברקע והופכים את התמונה לקיצ׳ית. ביליתי לי במים, הלכתי עוד קצת לאורך החוף ובסך הכל העברתי את הזמן בהירגעות מוחלטת על שפת המים. עשיתי טעות חמורה ולא לקחתי בחשבון את השמש החזקה, שלמרות שהקפדתי להיות בצל, הצליחה לשרוף אותי היטב. אחרי הצהריים חזרתי אל הכביש הראשי ותכננתי לקחת את הואן בחזרה. במקרה, זיהיתי באגי חולות שעמד לצאת מהעיירה לכיוון מרגוג׳י. מיד ניצלתי את ההזדמנות, פניתי אליו והצטרפתי לטרמפ. גג פתוח, רוח בשיער וחול בעיניים. כיף חיים. ירדתי במרגוג׳י והלכתי בחזרה אל ההוסטל, שם נתקלתי בליאור, ישראלית שזה עתה הגיעה והתקשתה בתקשורת מול בעל ההוסטל. עזרתי כמה שיכולתי, ספרדית עם שילוב כמה מילים בפורטוגזית והכל מסתדר. קיבלתי את החדר והמיטה. אחרי מקלחת קצרה מיהרתי לשנת צהריים קצרה. אחרי הכל התחלתי את היום בארבע וחצי בבוקר, מגיע לי. לאחר שהתעוררתי מהשנ״צ המאוחר ישבתי על ספסל העץ הנחמד של ההוסטל ופגשתי את שרה ואלינה, שתי ברזילאיות נחמדות מסאו פאולו בגילי, שיצאו לחופש של שבוע כאן בחופים של מרגוג׳י. התחברנו מיד והיה מעניין לשמוע על ההבדלים בין ברזיל שלהן (בסאו פאולו) לברזיל של מרגוג׳י, שלטענתן היא מדינה אחרת. לאחר מכן יצאתי עם ליאור לנסות למצוא משהו לאכול הגענו למתחם דוכני אוכל מקומי ששם גם הופיעו להקות מקומית. 

את היום שלמחרת התחלתי מוקדם. קמתי והתארגנתי ליציאה אל הבריכות הטבעיות. ביקשו ממני להיות שם כבר בשבע וחצי בבוקר. לא אידאלי. ליאור החליטה לא להצטרף אליי ולחכות לחברה שאמור להגיע במהלך היום. התייצבתי בחוף ובמקום הנכון בשעה שקבענו, אך ברזילאים כמו ברזילאים עובדים אחרת. חיכיתי וחיכיתי עד שמשהו יקרה. הצטרפו אליי כמה ברזילאים שגם היו אמורים להצטרף להפלגה אל האיים. הגאות תגיע ולא תחכה לאף אחד. לבסוף, ולאחר שעה של איחור העלו אותנו לספינת דייג שהומרה להיות ספינת תיירים. שטנו במים הצלולים והכחולים לכיוון הבריכות. המוני סירות כבר עגנו לידן ומאות תיירים בילו במי הבריכות. השמש הייתה חזקה מאוד. אתמול נשרפתי כהוגן ולא הייתי מוכן שזה יקרה שוב. נמרחתי היטב ועדיין הרגשתי את השמש מצליחה לחדור ולשרוף אותי עוד. החלטתי להוסיף עוד כמה ריאלים לשייט ולהשכיר גם שנורקל ומסכה שישמשו אותי בבריכות. ירדנו מהסירה היישר אל המים הצלולים והחמימים, שהגיעו עד גובה הבטן. התחלנו ללכת לכל כיוון ולחפש דגים ואלמוגים. אני כמובן נעזרתי במסכה ובשנרקל, שמיד התבררו כתקולים. חור קטן בשנורקל שהכניס לתוכו מים ללא הפסקה ולא איפשר לי להשאיר את הראש מתחת למים ליותר מדקה ברציפות. ראינו להקות של דגים צבעוניים וכן אלמוגי מוח הגדלים על הסלעים השחורים, וביניהם קיפודי ים. יפה, אך קצת מאכזב בהשוואה לציפיותיי. לאחר כארבעים דקות במים חזרנו אל הסירה והמשכנו משם אל לשון החול הענקית של בארה גרנז’ה. הגאות כבר עלתה ולכן גם כאן, המים הגיעו לגובה הבטן ולא איפשרו ללכת על החול החשוף. במקום עגנו גם כן עשרות סירות תיירים שסביבן התהלכו בהתלהבות התיירים הרבים. במקום היו סירות רבות שמכרו בשרים על האש, משקאות, קייפיריניה וכו. כמו כן, מחזה מאוד מצחיק של אנשים שלקחו את דוכני הגלידות שלהם לתוך המים ומסתובבים כדי למכור. ניצלו את המצב גם ברזילאים שהתקינו ערסלים במים ודורשים כסף על מנת לשבת בהם ולהצטלם בתוכם. תיירותי מידי לדאבוני. מיציתי את האירוע לאחר כמה דקות וחזרתי לשבת בסירה הנוחה ובצל. ידעתי שהשות בשמש החזקה אחרי שנשרפתי אתמול איננה מועילה לי יותר מידי. הפלגנו בחזרה לחוף. מיהרתי אל ההוסטל שכן נדרשתי לארוז את חפציי ולהחליף חדר. את שאר היום ניצלתי בנעימים. נחתי, אכלתי אסאי, הסתובבתי בעיירה ובערב לקחתי את בגדיי למכבסה. יום שגרתי. בערב פגשתי בחדרי החדש את לוקאס, ברזילאי מברזיליה שעובד בחודשיים האחרונים בעיר מאסיו שבקרבת מקום. לוקאס הוא מהנדס חשמל במקצועו, מיד דיברנו והתחברנו. בערב יצאנו ביחד לפיצה ובירה נחמדה בעיירה. לוקאס מאוד התלהב מכמה מילים שלימדתי אותו להגיד בעברית וחזר עליהן ללא הפסקה עד ששינן אותן לחלוטין.

למחרת החלטתי שזה יהיה יומי המלא האחרון במרגוג’י. קמתי בעצלתיים בבוקר ונהנתי מארוחת הבוקר המפנקת של ההוסטל. החלטתי שוב לבלות את מרבית היום בחופים הצפוניים של מרגוג’י, הפעם אף צפונה יותר מבארה גרנז’ה בוא הייתי לפני יומיים. לפני שיצאתי פגשתי שוב את שרה ואלינה שגם התארגנו לצאת לים. עליתי על המיניבוס המקומי שלקח אותי צפונה אל חוף “פורטו דה מנג’י”. גם הפעם המיניבוס עצר באמצע שומקום. ליד שדה קצור ועצי קוקוס רבים. ראיתי במפה מהו הכיוון של החוף ופשוט הלכתי לשם ברגל, מרחק של כקילומטר. הלכתי בתוך כפרון מסכן, צועד לכיוון הים על דרך עפר קטנה ומוזנחת. מעט חששתי, מקום קלאסי שבו יכולים לשדוד אותי מבלי שאוכל לעשות כלום בנידון. לבסוף הגעתי לים. שוב נפרש לפניי החול הלבן, המים הטורקיזיים והאנשים הרבים שנהנו מהמקום במים ומתחת לשמשיות. נכנסתי למים לסירוגין, ישבתי על החוף ועברתי בין הדוכנים השונים. גם הפעם התחלתי לאורך החוף. הלכתי דרומה אל עבר בארה גראנז’ה, שוב ניסיתי לחפש את פיסת החוף המושלמת. כמה מלונות יוקרה השתלטו על אזורים מהחוף ויצרו להם מעין אזורים יעודיים, בהם האורחים נחו על כיסאות נוח והתפנקו מקוקטיילים ומבשר על האש. כמובן שעדיין אפשר לעבור במקום, הים שייך לכולם. הלכתי לאורך כקילומטר וחצי, לא מאמין לצבע המים המשכר, עד שלבסוף הגעתי לאזור חוף המוגדר כשמורת טבע. מצאתי אותה, פיסת החוף המושלמת. אזור כמעט ללא אנשים שבו עצי הקוקוס מגיעים כמעט עד לקו המים. על החוף היו שרויים להם שלדים ישנים של עצי קוקוס שמתו מזמן ועוכלו לאיטם ע”י מי המלח של האוקייאנוס. בים עגנו להן סירות דייג וסירות מנוע קטנות שגררו בננות. מושלם, אין מילה אחרת. המשכתי לצעוד במשך עוד כקילומטר ולצלם את המקום היפה. בשלב כלשהו הטלפון שלי נפל למים והתמלא בחול. מאוד נלחצי, אך לאחר בדיקה מדוקדת הבנתי שהכל בסדר. המשכתי ללכת עד שלפתע פגשתי שוב את שרה ואלינה יושבות תחת שמשיה. הצטרפתי אליהן לכמה דקות, לפני שהן המשיכו ללכת צפונה. ניצלתי את ההזדמנות שהן כבר שילמו על השמשיה ונחתי שם בצל לעוד מספר דקות. מולי שיחקו בחול שני ילדים ברזילאים, שהיו עסוקים בלבנות טירה. מעניין האם הם מודעים בכלל למקום הנפלא שהם גרים בו. המשכתי ללכת עד שמצאתי עוד נקודה מושלמת על החוף, מתחת לצילו של עץ קוקוס, בה נשכבתי לנוח ופשוט נהנתי מהחיים. הצלחתי לדפוק שם שנ”צ נחמד, ככה על החול. כיף חיים. הספקתי עוד להיכנס לטבילה אחרונה בים לפני שנפרדתי ממנו סופית וחזרתי להוסטל. החלטתי שהיום בשעות השקיעה אעלה לתצפית המטורפת על כל האזור שנמצאת בגבעה החולשת על כל האזור. הדרך לשם עוברת בשכונה מעט לא סימפטית, ובטח שלא יהיה נעים לחזור משם בחושך. התגברתי על החשש והלכתי. טיפסתי במעלה שביל עפר תלול במיוחד. אף רכב לא מסוגל לנסוע בשיפוע שכזה, אולי כמה אופנועים. בקצה הגבעה שכן לו הוסטל שגבה שני ריאל על מנת להיכנס אל התצפית, שווה את זה! תצפית פשוט מקסימה. לראות את כל העיירה ורצועת החוף המשגעת מלמעלה היה מחזה כל כך מיוחד. שינוי אווירה מוחלט מהרביצה על החוף של הימים האחרונים.השקיעה צבעה את כל המקום בכתום ובאדום ואורות העיירה התחילו לנצנץ מלמטה. גם התצפית לצד השני, אל תוך הג’ונגלים הירוקים ורחבי הידיים, לא מאפשרת לך לא להיות נפעם. כמובן שסיימתי באסאי טוב שהיה על הפסגה. מושלם. חזרתי במהרה להוסטל דרך הירידה התלולה, שם פגשתי שוב את שרה ואלינה שחזרו מהחוף. ישבנו ודיברנו ארוכות. בערב יצאנו ביחד והלכנו לאכול המבורגר מצוין. איזה כיף שכבר לא הייתי צריך לדאוג לגבי הפורטוגזית. סיימנו את הלילה בפאב, בו שרה ואלינה דאגו שאטעם בירות מקומית טובות וכן שאשמע מעט מוסיקה ברזילאית אמיתית. היה ערב נפלא. קבענו שניפגש שוב כשאגיע לסאו פאולו בעוד כמה שבועות.

את הבוקר שלמחרת התחלתי מוקדם. ארזתי את כל חפציי, אכלתי ארוחת בוקר ויצאתי אל טרמינל האוטובוסים, בדרכי אל העיר מאסיו, משם יהיה אוטובוס ההמשך שלי לברזיליה. בדרך לשם, עצר אותי נהג מונית ושאל אם אני צריך למאסיו, קפצתי על ההזדמנות ואמרתי שכן. הרבה יותר נוח להגיע ככה. לא לקחתי בחשבון שנהג המונית יחכה ולא ייצא עד שמוניתו תתמלא. ישבתי וחיכית במשך שעתיים, וכבר ממש התחלתי להילחץ שמע אפסיד את האוטובוס לברזיליה. האוטובוס למאסיו כבר יצא, ולכן הייתי תלוי בנהג המונית במאת האחוזים כעת. חשבתי לעצמי על כמה שהייתי מטומטם ולא ווידאתי את שעת היציאה. אולי אפסיד את האוטובוס שלי בגלל הטמטום הזה. התחלתי ללחוץ על נהג המונית ולספר לו את מצבי. הוא הבין ובאמת עשר דקות מאוחר יותר יצא לדרך, למרות שמלבדי היה רק עוד נוסע אחד. מזל גדול שהוא היה בנאדם נחמד. בקלות הייתי מסוגל להיתקע שם גם לעוד שעות רבות. הגעתי לטרמינל במאסיו, מפלצת בטון עצומה שממנה יוצאים אוטובוסים לכל עבר. הספקתי לאכול צהריים, לקחת את הכרטיס לאוטובוס ולהצליח לעלות עליו בזמן. מרגוג’י הייתה מקסימה, באמת פיסת גן עדן. חבל שאני לא בנאדם של חופים ומיציתי את המקום כל כך מהר. זהו זה, יצאתי לדרך, האוטובוס הארוך ביותר בחיי. עכשיו רק 32 שעות עכשיו עד לברזיליה, שיהיה לי בהצלחה!

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