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ונמצאים שם כמויות אדירות של בעלי חיים מכל הסוגים. עצרתי במרכז המבקרים של השמורה וראיתי כיצד הם מנקים את המאובנים שנמצאו שם. חזרתי לרכב והתחלתי בנסיעתי להר ראשמור. בשל היופי של הבדלנדס התעכבתי הרבה יותר ממה שציפיתי, דבר שהעמיד בסכנה את ווינד קייב שנסגרת בארבע וחצי. בכדי לנסוע לראשמור חזרתי בדרך יפה לראפיד סיטי והתחלתי לטפס על רכס ההרים בלק הילס בדרכי דרומה. הר ראשמור הפך לאטרקציה תיירותית מרכזית וכל הדרך לשם ממוסחרת מאוד ומלאה בחנויות ובפעילויות אקסטרים (החל מסיור במסוק ועד רכבות הרים אומגות). כשמגיעים להר חונים במגרש חנייה עצום עם חמש קומות שכמעט כולן מלאות, ומתחילים לצעוד בשדרה המרכזית. המקום מאוד גרנדיוזי עם שבילים רחבים מאוד מרוצפים באבן ועמודי שיש גדולים שמקבלים אותך למקום. ואז פתאום רואים אותם, הפרצופים של ארבעת הנשיאים על ההר. לא באמת מבינים את הגודל עד שמתקרבים מאוד. באמת פסל מרשים, אך לדעתי כל ההמולה סביבו מוגזמת. בנוסף, השדרה המרכזית אל המוניומנט הייתה בשיפוצים (אולי מוסיפים את פרצופו של טראמפ) ולכן לא ניתן היה להתקרב מאוד. לאחר שצילמתי מכל זווית אפשרית הלכתי למרכז המבקרים ושמעתי את סיפור המקום. נבנה בשנות השלושים על מנת להיות מוקד משיכה לתיירים (עובד). התכנון המקורי היה של גיבורים אמריקאים ובכלל במיקום אחר, אך הפסל הטיל וטו והתקבלה החלטה על נשיאים אמריקאים במיקום הנוכחי. הפסל נחצב בהר במשך כמה שנים עד שנת 1941 בה החליטה הממשלה לחדול את הפרויקט (הם היו צריכים את הפסלים בשביל אנדרטאות למלחמת העולם השנייה). על כן, המוניומנט בכלל לא גמור ונשאר במצב הנוכחי מאז 1941. התכנון המלא מוצג במרכז המבקרים והוא יפה וגרנדיוזי בהרבה. מי יודע, אולי יום אחד יסיימו לבנות את ההר. לאחר מכן הלכתי בשביל הליכה קצר שמגיע ממש מתחת להר בו ממש אפשר לקלוט את הגודל. התחיל לרדת גשם אז מיהרתי בחזרה לאוטו. הבנתי שלווינד קייב לא אגיע, לכן החלטתי לסיים את היום בעיירה הוט ספרינגס שסמוכה לווינד קייב, כך שאוכל להגיע לשם ישר על הבוקר. הגשם הלך והתחזק ומצאתי את עצמי נוסע בסופה קיצונית. טיפות עצומות וברד ירדו כל כך חזק שהוישרים של הרכב לא עמדו בקצב. הגשם יצר קשתות מרהיבות בלי סוף, ובכל פעם שהייתה לי הזדמנות ניסיתי לצלם אותן. בסוף הגשם פסק ומבלי להתכוון הגעתי להוט ספרינגס שהתבררה כעיר יפה מאוד 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מלאכותי שמוריד אנשים במעלית, אך לחוסר מזלי המעליות מקולקלות כבר כמה שבועות ולכן לא ניתן להיכנס למערה. מקום מגניב ביותר. משם חזרתי להוט ספרינגס ונסעתי לאטרקציה המרכזית שבמקום ״אתר הממותה״ – בור סיד שהתגלה בעיר ובו מאות שלדים ומאובנים של חיות פרהיסטוריות שביניהן עשרות ממותות. המקום היה בעבר אגם שהיווה מלכודת מוות לחיות שנפלו אליו ולא היו יכולות לצאת ועל כן מלא בשלדים. בין הממצעים ישנם שלדים של דובים, זאבים, איילים ועוד המון חיות. המקום הוא עדיין אתר חפירה פעיל שייקח עוד שנים רבות כד שיסיימו אותו מרוב גודלו הענק. לאחר מכן חזרתי לאוטו והתחלתי לנסוע דרומה. מהר מאוד חציתי את הגבול לנברסקה שהתבררה גם היא כשטוחה וחקלאית מאוד. כאן הרגשתי עוד יותר את מזג האוויר היבשתי, חום אימים (38 מעלות) ורוח יבשה שלא מקררת באמת. גם פני הקרקע השתנו והפכו חוליים יותר ומדבריים יותר. עצרתי בעיר צ׳דרון ואכלתי צהריים בדיינר מקומי מגניב. המלצרית שלי הייתה ילדה בת חמש. לאחר מכן המשכתי עוד כשעתיים נסיעה עד העיר סקוטסבלף (עם עצירת שנ״צ באמצע הדרך מרוב חום). מסביב לסקוטסבלף כבר לא רק שטוח, יש הרים, אגמים ומצוקים חוליים יפים. לא הייתה לי שום יכולת לעשות משהו בחוץ מרוב חום ולכן החלטתי ללכת לקולנוע המקומי, לחזור לילדות ולראות את הסרט מלך האריות שיצא מחדש. ההחלטה הייתה מצוינת וכך גם הסרט. לאחר הסרט קיבלתי החלטה לא להישאר לישון כאן אלא להמשיך עוד כשעה וחצי עד לעיר הבירה של וויומינג שיאן. בדרך ראיתי את אחת השקיעות היפות ביותר בחיי. צבעים מהפנטים על רקע השדות והמצוקים של נברסקה. פשוט וואו. עברתי את הגבול בחזרה לוויומינג. מהר מאוד ירד החושך והמשכתי בנסיעת לילה. הבנתי שאני מגיע לעיר מרכזית תוך כדי הנסיעה. יותר ויותר מכוניות, מחלפים ויישובים. לפתע הופיעו בנייני העיר. חניתי עם הרכב ממש במרכז הפכתי אותו למצב לילה ויצאתי לסיבוב הליכה. עיר של קוובויים. כולם מסתובבים עם הכובעים, ג׳ינסים וחולצות משובצות. כאילו שאני בסרט. הלכתי להונקיטונק מקומי (פאב שבו מנוגנת מוסיקת קאנטרי חיה). היה ערב בלתי נשכח, בעיקר בשבילי שחובב מאוד את המוסיקה הזאת.

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