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של 6000 מטר מכל עבר ואגמים בצבעי תכלת וטורקיז ביניהם. מקום לא אמיתי. אחרי סשן תמונות מכל זווית אפשרית ירדנו בחזרה למחנה שלמטה באותה הדרך, הפעם ירידה מאוד תלולה. אחרי היום הקשה ביותר הגיע היום הקל ביותר. יום שלם שבו ירדנו בגובה והגענו אל הכפר הואיאפה. התמקמנו במגרש הכדורגל של הכפר והקמנו שם את המחנה. כשסגרתי את הדיל של הטרק מול סוכנות הטיולים, המחיר כלל לינה בהוסטל שבכפר. כך יצא שבלילה הזה מי שסגר ישירות מול הסוכנות (כלומר כל הישראלים) ישנו בהוסטל, בעוד כל האחרים נאלצו להסתפק בשינה באוהלים. שמנו את הציוד בהוסטל וחזרנו אל המגרש עם כולם. קרלי העבירה סדנת יוגה נחמדה ולאחר מכן שיחקנו כדורגל עם ילד מקומי. במהלך המשחק הצלחתי להעיף את הכדור כמה פעמים לחצר בית ונאלצתי לקפוץ מעל הגדר ולפרוץ פנימה על מנת לחלצו. בלילה היה כרגיל משחק קלפים סוער, אלא שהפעם שתינו הרבה יין ופיסקו וחזרנו להוסטל שיכורים למדי.
היום שלאחר מכן היה היום השני הקשה ביותר בטרק. אמש ירדנו מ-5000 ל-3400, והיום נאלצנו לטפס בחזרה ל-4800. העלייה הייתה ארוכה מאוד ולעיתים מייאשת ולא נגמרת. העובדה שהשלוקר שלי דלף והרטיב את גבי ומכנסיי לא עזרה במיוחד. לאחר הפס ירדנו ירידה קצרה והגענו למחנה השישי. במהלך הלילה ירד גשם זלעפות שיצר שלוליות רבות. אופיר ואני לא חשבנו מראש והצלחנו לשים את הצ׳ולה שלנו במקום שבו נוצרה שלולית. כמובן שכל הדברים שלנו נרטבו ונותרו ספוגים במים. בבוקר יצאנו לעוד אחד הימים היפים בטרק. טיפסנו במעלה ההרים שחטפו מנת שלג מכובדת בלילה והגענו לתצפית מדהימה נוספת. קונדורים דאו להם בשמיים והפכו את המראה למרגש יותר. הנוף הסטנדרטי של אגמים מדהימים והרכס המושלג הופיע גם הוא. בנוסף לכך, בתצפית הייתה קליטה! בפעם הראשונה אחרי שבעה ימים. כולם שמחו והתעכבו בתצפית, כולל המדריכים. מהתצפית ועד למחנה האחרון נותר מרחק קצרצר על המפה. אלא שבמציאות נאלצנו לרדת כ-800 מטר בירידה התלולה והארוכה ביותר בטרק. ירידה מתישה מאוד שמכאיבה בברכיים וגורמת לקלל את המקום בסופה. המחנה שנראה מלמעלה פשוט לא התקרב, לא משנה כמה ירדנו עדיין האוהלים שלמטה נראו קטנטנים. כשהגענו בסופו של דבר למחנה (האחרון בטרק) הכתרנו אותו כיפה ביותר. לצד אגם וממוקם בעמק קרחוני מטורף בין ההרים המושלגים. ניצלנו את הערב למשחקי קלפים ארוכים אחרונים והלכנו לישון. למחרת נאלצנו להתעורר מוקדם במיוחד וללכת את 14 הק״מ האחרונים של הטרק השכם בבוקר. כבר בשעה 10 וחצי הגענו אל נקודת הסיום של הטרק, הכפר יאמאק. נחנו בכניסה לכפר, לצד נחל קטן. חזי המדריך אפילו הספיק להתקלח בו. יצאנו בהסעה בחזרה להוארז עייפים ומרוצים. הנסיעה הייתה ארוכה ומתישה. זאת בעיקר מהעובדה שהכיסאות היו אקסטרה קטנים ולא נוחים. מידות של פרואנים אחרי הכל. היטבתי לעשות והזמנתי חדר פרטי מראש ללילה הזה. כיף לא נורמאלי להגיע בחזרה להוסטל ולעשות מקלחת חמה של שעות. אופיר ואני לקחנו את כל הבגדים המלוכלכים אל המכבסה והלכנו לפגוש את כולם בארוחת ערב לכבוד סיום הטרק במסעדה הודית טבעונית. לסיכום, הייתה חוויה מדהימה ויוצאת דופן. לא עשיתי טרק ארוך כל כך עדיין בחיי, ראיתי נוף לא מציאותי, גיליתי את רמת הכושר הטובה שלי וההסתגלות לגובה, ובעיקר פגשתי חברים מדהימים שבוודאי ילוו אותי בחלקים מסוימים בהמשך הטיול.
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