טרק סובב הוואיוואש

יוצאים לטרק! אופיר ואני איחדנו את שקיות הבגדים והציוד שלנו בשק הגדול (צ׳ולה) שקנינו אתמול. היינו מוכנים בשעה שאמרו לנו, אך פרואנים כמו פרואנים תמיד מאחרים. בינתיים הסתובבנו וקנינו לנו מאפים לארוחת בוקר. לבסוף הופיע האדם הנכון. איש בשם לייבה שהיה האחראי על הטיול. לייבה הוביל אותנו אל המיניבוס שהיה מלא כבר בכל המטיילים. הכרנו אותם לראשונה. זוג ישראלים בני 22, איה ואורי, מורה דרך ישראלי בן 30 בשם דובי. אוד וטיבו, זוג צרפתים בשנות השלושים המאוחרות, איימי, אוסטרלית בת 23, מלווין, גרמני בן 21, איליי, פיליפיני בן 25, אקיף, בריטי בן 29, קרלי, קנדית בת 33, לורן, קנדי בן 41, אופיר ואני. מיד התגבשנו לקבוצה. התחלנו בנסיעה הארוכה לתחילת הטרק. הטרק בן 130 ק״מ ומקיף את רכס ההרים קורדיירה וואיוואש שמדרום לווארז. איימי המסכנה חטפה הרעלת מזון ביום שלפני ולכן הנסיעה לא עשתה לה טוב במיוחד. זאת, בייחוד מהסיבה שלפחות מחצית מהנסיעה מתבצעת בדרכי עפר צרות ופתלתלות בין ההרים. לאחר שעצרנו לאכול צהריים בכפר קטן עלינו מאוד גבוה עם המיניבוס וחצינו מעברי הרים. לראשונה נחשפנו להרים המטורפים אותם אנחנו הולכים להקיף בימים הקרובים. בשעות אחר הצהריים הגענו לקאמפ שכבר היה מוכן ומסודר בשבילנו. למרות שזהו טרק של שמונה ימי הליכה, מדובר בטרק למפונקים במיוחד. הצוות שאיתנו (מדריך, טבח ושני מובילי חמורים) דואגים להכל. הדבר היחיד שנדרש מאיתנו הוא ללכת. אפילו בשירותים שהיו בקאמפ הזה הותקנו אסלות. הקאמפ נמצא בגובה 4100 וממוקם בעמק ירוק ויפה המוקף בהרים גבוהים מכל כיווניו. כשירד הערב התחלנו להרגיש את הקור שילווה אותנו במהלך הטיול. קור מקפיא עצמות שביחד עם הרוח הופך כל שנייה בחוץ למאתגרת במיוחד. אכלנו ארוחת ערב חמה שהורכבה ממרק מצוין ומנת בשר ופחמימות. אוכל מצוין בכל הרצינות. נשארנו לשבת באוהל הגדול והחמים ולדבר, עד שלבסוף התקפלנו לאוהלים שלנו לקראת הלילה הראשון. חלקתי אוהל עם אופיר. ידוע שהלילות בטרק קרים במיוחד ולכן קיבלנו ציוד מעולה בהתאם. אוהלי ארבע עונות עמידים מאוד, שקי שינה המיועדים לשמש עד מינוס 30 מעלות ומזרונים לבידוד מהרצפה. אכן חם בתוך הלילה באוהל, אך הבעיה מגיעה בהשקמה שבבוקר. בחמש וחצי בבוקר לייבה עובר אוהל אוהל, מנער אותו וצועק על יושבי האוהל ״דסיונו״ (ארוחת בוקר בספרדית). קור אימים, כל חלקו החיצוני של האוהל מלא קרח. כיף מאוד לקום, להתלבש ולצחצח שיניים בקור הזה. כל בוקר מחכה לנו באוהל האוכל קומקום מלא במים רותחים, קפה, תה, לחמים, ובישול חם כלשהו לבוקר. שתינו בעיקר תה קוקה מעלי קוקה אמיתיים שעוזרים מאוד למחלות גבהים. כמעט כל ימי הטרק נעים בין 4000 ל-5000 בגובה. התחלנו ללכת. כבר בתחילת המסלול טיפסנו למעבר ההרים הראשון להיום, פס בגובה 4700 שבהר מעל המחנה. בפעם הראשונה ראינו את פערי הכושר בין האנשים השונים. קרלי, דובי, אורי ואני תמיד היינו מהראשונים שהעפילו למעלה וחנכו את הדרך. יחזקאל המדריך בדרך כלל היה מאסף עם האחרונים ועבר קדימה רק ברגעים בהם היה היכן לטעות בדרך. הצטלמנו בפאס וירדנו לחכות לשאר הקבוצה בצידו השני של המעבר. בכל בוקר כל אחד קיבל מהצוות שקית ממתקים בשם ״בנדולרה״. השקית הכילה שוקולד כלשהו, עוגיות, פרי ומיץ אפרסקים. נשנשנו את תכולת הבנדולרה, חיכינו לכל הקבוצה והמשכנו בדרך. הגענו לעמק יו ירוק שמזכיר שילוב בין איסלנד לסקוטלנד. הרים שחורים בזלתיים עם מצוקים חדים ודשא ירוק בהיר שמכסה את כל השטח. טיפסנו בהדרגה בעמק עד למעבר הרים נוסף ולקאמפ השני שלנו, ליד אגם קראוקוצ׳ה. אגם שעל מימיו השתקפו ההרים הגבוהים והמושלגים. הלכנו מהר והצלחנו להקדים את החמורים הסוחבים את כל הציוד שלנו. רק כמה דקות לאחר שהגענו, הגיעו החמורים והצוות התחיל להקים את המחנה. איזו מקצועיות ויעילות מטורפת. בתוך כחמש דקות הוקמו כל האוהלים וארוחת הערב החלה להתבשל. ראינו בפעם הראשונה את האוהלים של קבוצת ישראלים שיצאה לטרק דרך חברה אחרת והלכנו לומר שלום. לאורך כל הטרק נקדים אותם ונלך הרבה יותר מהר מהם. ארוחת ערב ושהות סטנדרטית באוהל למשחקי קלפים ו״נבר הב איי אבר״. היום למחרת התחיל בהליכה קלה בקניון היפה בין ההרים שהפך לעלייה תלולה ומעייפת. עברנו שלושה אגמים כחולים מדהימים שלצד אחד מהם ראינו מפולת שלגים מטורפת שהתחילה מהקרחון שבהר שמולנו. עצרנו בתצפית יפה על שלושת האגמים עם הנוף המהפנט של ההרים המושלגים ברקע. העלייה הייתה קשה, הלכתי בראש ואורי הצטרף אליי בסופה. על הפאס, בגובה 4800 מטר השמענו שירים מהרמקול ופצחנו בריקודים. חזי המדריך מאוד הופתע, צחק וצילם אותנו. משם הדרך הייתה קלה ובירידה שבמהלכה הגענו לאזור ביצתי שמורכב מאיי אדמה מלאים צמחייה ירוקה בהירה. אזור יפהפה. המשכנו עד המחנה הבא, שהפעם היה מוכן לחלוטין ואכלנו וונטון (בצק מטוגן עם גבינה) להשביע את הרעב אחרי הצהריים. בבוקר שלמחרת התעוררנו לקור אימתני. הכל קפא והאוהלים כוסו בקרח. נאלצתי לשאוב מים ולמלא את הבקבוקים ונשארתי אחרון לאכול ארוחת בוקר, גם אחרי שכבר קיפלו את אוהל האוכל. הצלחנו להתגבר על הקור ויצאנו לדרך, לאחד הימים הקשים ביותר בטרק. יום שבו נטפס שתי פסגות של 5000 מטר. העלייה הייתה קשה ומפרכת. קרלי ואני הלכנו הרבה לפני כולם והעפלנו לפאס אחרי מאמץ מתמשך. ישבנו בפאס, אכלנו שוקולד, קפאנו מהרוח המקפיאה וחיכינו לכולם שיצורפו אל הפאס. מהפאס אפשר היה לראות גם את אחד האגמים התכולים המדהימים שמוקפים בפסגות המושלגות. משם ההליכה מהפאס למחנה קלה ובירידה. הגענו למחנה, אכלנו ונחנו כשעה לפני היציאה לפאס השני. מעבר סן אנטוניו המפורסם שממנו נשקף הנוף האייקוני ביותר של הטרק. עלייה סופר קשה ותלולה שפשוט לא נגמרת. אחרי כל מקטע שעוברים מופתעים לגלות מקטע תלול יותר וקשה יותר לטיפוס. אחרי היאבקות ממושכת של כשעה הצלחנו להעפיל. הנוף משם באמת משוגע וחד פעמי. ללא ספק אחד המראות המפעימים שראיתי בחיי. הרים מפלצתיים ומושלגים של 6000 מטר מכל עבר ואגמים בצבעי תכלת וטורקיז ביניהם. מקום לא אמיתי. אחרי סשן תמונות מכל זווית אפשרית ירדנו בחזרה למחנה שלמטה באותה הדרך, הפעם ירידה מאוד תלולה. אחרי היום הקשה ביותר הגיע היום הקל ביותר. יום שלם שבו ירדנו בגובה והגענו אל הכפר הואיאפה. התמקמנו במגרש הכדורגל של הכפר והקמנו שם את המחנה. כשסגרתי את הדיל של הטרק מול סוכנות הטיולים, המחיר כלל לינה בהוסטל שבכפר. כך יצא שבלילה הזה מי שסגר ישירות מול הסוכנות (כלומר כל הישראלים) ישנו בהוסטל, בעוד כל האחרים נאלצו להסתפק בשינה באוהלים. שמנו את הציוד בהוסטל וחזרנו אל המגרש עם כולם. קרלי העבירה סדנת יוגה נחמדה ולאחר מכן שיחקנו כדורגל עם ילד מקומי. במהלך המשחק הצלחתי להעיף את הכדור כמה פעמים לחצר בית ונאלצתי לקפוץ מעל הגדר ולפרוץ פנימה על מנת לחלצו. בלילה היה כרגיל משחק קלפים סוער, אלא שהפעם שתינו הרבה יין ופיסקו וחזרנו להוסטל שיכורים למדי.
היום שלאחר מכן היה היום השני הקשה ביותר בטרק. אמש ירדנו מ-5000 ל-3400, והיום נאלצנו לטפס בחזרה ל-4800. העלייה הייתה ארוכה מאוד ולעיתים מייאשת ולא נגמרת. העובדה שהשלוקר שלי דלף והרטיב את גבי ומכנסיי לא עזרה במיוחד. לאחר הפס ירדנו ירידה קצרה והגענו למחנה השישי. במהלך הלילה ירד גשם זלעפות שיצר שלוליות רבות. אופיר ואני לא חשבנו מראש והצלחנו לשים את הצ׳ולה שלנו במקום שבו נוצרה שלולית. כמובן שכל הדברים שלנו נרטבו ונותרו ספוגים במים. בבוקר יצאנו לעוד אחד הימים היפים בטרק. טיפסנו במעלה ההרים שחטפו מנת שלג מכובדת בלילה והגענו לתצפית מדהימה נוספת. קונדורים דאו להם בשמיים והפכו את המראה למרגש יותר. הנוף הסטנדרטי של אגמים מדהימים והרכס המושלג הופיע גם הוא. בנוסף לכך, בתצפית הייתה קליטה! בפעם הראשונה אחרי שבעה ימים. כולם שמחו והתעכבו בתצפית, כולל המדריכים. מהתצפית ועד למחנה האחרון נותר מרחק קצרצר על המפה. אלא שבמציאות נאלצנו לרדת כ-800 מטר בירידה התלולה והארוכה ביותר בטרק. ירידה מתישה מאוד שמכאיבה בברכיים וגורמת לקלל את המקום בסופה. המחנה שנראה מלמעלה פשוט לא התקרב, לא משנה כמה ירדנו עדיין האוהלים שלמטה נראו קטנטנים. כשהגענו בסופו של דבר למחנה (האחרון בטרק) הכתרנו אותו כיפה ביותר. לצד אגם וממוקם בעמק קרחוני מטורף בין ההרים המושלגים. ניצלנו את הערב למשחקי קלפים ארוכים אחרונים והלכנו לישון. למחרת נאלצנו להתעורר מוקדם במיוחד וללכת את 14 הק״מ האחרונים של הטרק השכם בבוקר. כבר בשעה 10 וחצי הגענו אל נקודת הסיום של הטרק, הכפר יאמאק. נחנו בכניסה לכפר, לצד נחל קטן. חזי המדריך אפילו הספיק להתקלח בו. יצאנו בהסעה בחזרה להוארז עייפים ומרוצים. הנסיעה הייתה ארוכה ומתישה. זאת בעיקר מהעובדה שהכיסאות היו אקסטרה קטנים ולא נוחים. מידות של פרואנים אחרי הכל. היטבתי לעשות והזמנתי חדר פרטי מראש ללילה הזה. כיף לא נורמאלי להגיע בחזרה להוסטל ולעשות מקלחת חמה של שעות. אופיר ואני לקחנו את כל הבגדים המלוכלכים אל המכבסה והלכנו לפגוש את כולם בארוחת ערב לכבוד סיום הטרק במסעדה הודית טבעונית. לסיכום, הייתה חוויה מדהימה ויוצאת דופן. לא עשיתי טרק ארוך כל כך עדיין בחיי, ראיתי נוף לא מציאותי, גיליתי את רמת הכושר הטובה שלי וההסתגלות לגובה, ובעיקר פגשתי חברים מדהימים שבוודאי ילוו אותי בחלקים מסוימים בהמשך הטיול.

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