טרק הסלקנטאי ומאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו

יצאתי מוקדם בבוקר מההוסטל וחיכיתי שיאספו אותי להסעה אל הטרק. אני יוצא לטרק הסלקנטאי שאורך חמישה ימים, כאשר ביומו החמישי מעפילים אל מאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו. למרות שהמאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו כל כך מפורסם ומתוייר, יחסית קשה להגיע אליו. ישנה אפשרות להגיע אליו ברכבת (מאוד יקרה) או ברגל. הטרק שבחרתי לעשות הוא ממש לא האפשרות הקלה ביותר, אך בהחלט היפה והמומלצות ביותר. השעה הייתה ארבע בבוקר והעיר הייתה הרבה יותר פעילה ממה שציפיתי בשעה שכזו. חיכיתי עם הציוד שלי מחוץ להוסטל ברחוב. לפרואנים כמו לפרואנים יש את הזמן שלהם ולכן נאספתי באיחור של שעה. נסענו במשך מספר שעות ועצרנו לארוחת בוקר בכפר קטן בין ההרים בשם מויפאטה. פגשתי לראשונה את האנשים שאיתם אבלה את הימים הקרובים בטרק. שוב, תיירים מכל העולם ובעיקר אירופאים. אפילו פגשתי את יסמין, איראנית שמתגוררת בקנדה. ממש מגניב, זאת הפעם הראשונה שיוצא לי לפגוש מישהי איראנית ולשוחח איתה. בנוסף, פגשתי את ג׳ולייט הצרפתייה וקרלה הגרמניה שיהפכו במהרה לחברות הטובות ביותר שלי בטרק. לאחר האוכל, נסענו עוד כשעה באוטובוס בדרך עפר מפותלת עד לתחילת המסלול של הטרק. בשונה מהוואיוואש, הטרק הזה הרבה יותר קל ומיושב. רובו המוחלט של הטרק בירידה, כאשר בסוף כל יום מגיעים לנקודת יישוב כלשהי. כשירדנו מהאוטובוס חולקנו לשתי קבוצות. אני קיבלתי את המדריך ריקרדו ואיתי בקבוצה היו עוד 11 אנשים. המסלול של היום הראשון היה קצר יחסית והתחיל בעלייה של כשעה, בעמק הירוק והפורח. הלכנו בתוך קניון, כאשר משני צידינו הרים גבוהים שבוייתו עם טרסות חקלאיות ייחודיות. מולנו ניצב בגאון הר סלקנטאי המושלג שגובהו כ-6400. הלכנו כשעתיים נוספות במישור בתוך הקניון היפה ועברנו בין המטעים השונים, הכפרים הקטנים והתעלות שהזרימו מים לשדות והמטעים. קצת מזכיר את נפאל. הגענו למחנה להיום וחולקנו לזוגות. כל זוג קיבל בקתה קטנה וחמימה עם שני מזרונים נוחים, אחלה חדר. אני חלקתי את החדר עם שיוארט ההולנדי, שלומד חקלאות בהולנד ומאוד מודע ומעריך את הטכנולוגיה החקלאית בארץ. לאחר שהתמקמנו בבקתות ואכלנו צהריים, ניתנה לנו בחירה האם לצאת לעוד מסלול קצר. כמובן שכולנו רצינו ויצאנו להליכה קצרה אל אגם יומנטאי השוכן כק״מ וחצי במעלה ההר. שוב, הכושר הטוב שלי וההסתגלות לגובה עשו את שלהם, ובעוד שלאחרים היה מאוד קשה לטפס לאגם, אני עשיתי זאת בקלילות תוך שיחות ארוכות על ישראל עם שיוארט. האגם עצמו מאוד מרשים, אך אחרי האגמים שראיתי בוואיוואש, בשבילי הוא היה סתם עוד אגם יפה. ישבתי על שפת המים עם קרלה וג׳ולייט ולאחר מכן טיפסתי על אחד ההרים בכדי לקבל תצפית טובה יותר על האגם והעמק הירוק והיפה שמוקף קרחונים. חזרנו למחנה מעט לפני שהתחיל הגשם, אכלנו ארוחת ערב טובה והלכנו לישון.
היום השני לטרק הוא גם היום הקשה ביותר מבחינת ההליכה, יום שבו נעפיל למעבר הרים בגובה 4600. התחלנו ללכת במעלה העמק הקניוני היפה ובשלב מסוים התחילה העלייה התלולה. אני החלטתי ללכת אותה בקצב שלי ולכן עליתי מהר וחיכיתי לכל שאר הקבוצה מעט לפני מעבר ההרים. פגשתי למעלה מטיילים מקבוצה אחרת ואת המדריך שלהם חורחה שהדגים טקס מסורתי של האינקה עם עלי קוקה. המשכתי עם הקבוצה למעבר ההרים, שם ריקרדו הסביר לנו מעט על האמונות של האינקה. בזאת סיימנו את העליות עד ליום החמישי של הטרק, כעת התחלנו לרדת מהמעבר. ככל שירדנו הנוף נהפך לירוק וטורפי יותר, כאשר בשלב מסוים ממש נכנסנו ליער גשם של ממש. מדהים שמקור וקרחונים עברנו בתוך מספר שעות ליער טרופי. לאחר עצירת צהריים באחד הכפרונים הגענו אל ההוסטל שלנו ללילה בכפר צ׳אויאי. מקום די מוזנח ומעלה עובש, אך שנמצא במיקום מקסים ליד הנהר ובין ההרים הגבוהים. הפעם קיבלתי חדר משלי ואפילו הצלחתי לקחת מזרון נוסף. היום השלישי היה גם הוא במגמת ירידה. הלכנו שעות ארוכות בתוך יער הגשם היפה, עברנו על גשרים מאולתרים מספר נחלים ובעיקר נהנינו מרעש המים בנהר וריחות הפרחים והצמחיה ביער. בשעות הצהריים העלו אותנו על הסעה שלקחה אותנו לאכול בכפר קטן בשם סאואיאקו ומשם אל המחנה שלנו להלילה בעיירה סנטה טרזה. לאחר שהתמקמנו במחנה ניתנה לנו אפשרות לנסוע למעיינות החמים שבקרבת מקום, כמובן שהסכמנו. נסענו כעשרים דקות אל תוך היער ולמיקום קסום לצד הנהר. ארבע בריכות ענק עם מים חמים בטמפרטורות שונות חיכו לנו. ככה נראה טרק של מפונקים. המקום היה מאוד מטופח ושמור. ג׳ולייט, קרלה ואני עברנו מבריכה לבריכה ואפילו הלכנו להתרחץ במי הנהר הקפואים שמוזרמים במפלים יפים פנימה למתחם. כמובן ששתינו בירה טובה והתקלחנו לסיום החוויה. היום הזה היה היום האחרון לחלק מהאנשים בקבוצה, שהצטמצמה מאוד ליומיים האחרונים שנשארו. בערב ערכו לנו במחנה מסיבה נחמדה עם שילובים בין מוסיקה פרואנית למוסיקה מערבית. למחרת, היום הרביעי לטרק, הוא יום מישורי ומשעמם יחסית ונועד להביא אותנו לאגוואס קליינטס, העיר שנמצאת מתחת למאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו. מסנטה טרזה הלכנו כשלוש שעות על דרך עפר במעלה קניון שהלך ונהיה צר יותר ויותר. חלפנו מספר פעמים על גשרים מעל נהר האורובמבה השוצף עד שהגענו לתחנת הכוח ההידרואלקטרית, הנקודה בה נגמרת הדרך האפשרית לנסיעה ברכב. נחנו על ערסלים נחמדים במקום ואכלנו צהריים לפני שהמשכנו עוד כתשעה ק״מ במעלה הקניון עד להוסטל שבאגוואס קליינטס. החל מהמפעל ההידרואלקטרי ועד להוסטל הולכים לצד מסילת הרכבת (שהיא גם כלי התחבורה היחיד שיכול להגיע ליישוב), כאשר מידי פעם שומעים את שריקת הרכבת מתקרבת ונאלצים לזוז הצידה מהמסילה. כל הדרך ממש בתוך יער גשם טרופי עם אלפי יתושים וציפורים. איזה כיף זה לקבל הוסטל של ממש לאחר שלושה ימים בבקתות ואוהלים. גיליתי שנעקצתי עשרות פעמים בגב ע״י היתושים הממזרים. בערב יצאנו לחגוג בעיר, עברנו בין ברים שונים והיינו שתויים למדי לקראת היום הגדול של מחר, העפלה למאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו. בשל כמות התיירים הגדולה במקום, לכל כרטיס כניסה ישנה שעה שרק החל ממנה אפשר להיכנס לאתר. באופן מוזר ותמוהה, חברי הקבוצה קיבלו כרטיסים עם שעות כניסה שונות. אני קיבלתי לשש בבוקר בעוד אחרים קיבלו לשבע. התעוררתי מוקדם ויצאתי לדרך ברבע לחמש בבוקר עם שיוארט ושני הולנדים נוספים. עברנו את נקודת הבידוק הראשונה, שלאחריה מתחילים בטיפוס המדרגות. עזבתי את ההולנדים וטיפסתי בקצב המהיר שלי. טיפוס של 1755 מדרגות (כן כן, ספרתי), שאינן אחידות או מסודרות במיוחד. הגעתי לנקודת הביקורת השנייה שבכניסה לאתר ספוג ומזיע לחלוטין, אך לפחות הצלחתי לסיים את הטיפוס בכ-40 דקות בסך הכל. הגעתי מהראשונים שנכנסו לאתר. וואו. איזה מקום מדהים! לא סתם הוא פלא עולם. הנוף, הבנייה, התצורה. הכל מושלם. ובנוסף, מזג האוויר היה מצוין וללא עננים. צילמתי תמונות של המקום בהתרגשות, ויצאתי למסלול קצר בחלקו העליון של ההר שנקרא גשר האינקה. תכננתי לסיים את המסלול לפני שאפגוש את שאר הקבוצה שעולים בשבע. מסלול צר מאוד על שפת המצוק ששימש את האינקה כאחת היציאות ממאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו. מאוד מזכיר את השבילים התלויים בהר טיינמן שבסין. מצוק של מאות מטרים לידך ונוף קניוני ירוק אדיר פרוס לכל האופק. נדרשים להירשם בכניסה וביציאה מהמסלול מחשש שאולי מישהו יעלם בדרך. את הגשר עצמו אפשר רק לראות, שכן הכניסה אליו חסומה. הוא נראה מפחיד ביותר. חזרתי על עקבותיי מבלי ליפול ופגשתי את כל חברי הקבוצה. קיבלנו הסבר מריקרדו על המקום, נפרדנו ויצאנו כל אחד לדרכו. קרלה, ג׳ולייט ואני הלכנו להצטלם על רקע המקום המדהים ומיד לאחר מכן החלטנו לעלות אל שערי השמש של העיר. לא לקחנו בחשבון שהשערים רחוקים כל כך וגבוהים כל כך. הלכנו אליהם בעלייה במשך כארבעים וחמש דקות. מאוד התאכזבנו מהשערים אך לעומת זאת מאוד התרשמנו מהתצפית המטורפת על מאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו. היינו מותשים והחלטנו לשבת לנוח ולאכול חטיפים. היה במקום שומר שדאג להעיר לאנשים על כל דבר קטן. כמובן שלאכול שם אסור. ישבנו על טרסה והתחבאנו מאחורי אחת מהאבנים תוך כדי זלילת החטיפים. חזרנו על עקבותינו וירדנו לסייר בהריסות עצמן. מקום סופר מרשים ושמור. מרבית הקירות והמבנים עדיין עומדים ומבליטים את קווי המתאר של העיר. סגנון בנייה אינקאי הכולל הרבה משולשים, חלונות שמש וסיטוט אבנים בזלתיות בצורה מושלמת. הסתובבנו בין המבנים היפים והמקדשים הפזורים בעיר אך לא היינו יכולים לעלות לחלקה העליון של העיר (הוצ׳ויפיצ׳ו) שאליו מורשים להיכנס רק 500 תיירים ביום המזמינים כרטיס חודשים מראש. צילמנו המון תמונות והגנבנו כמה מבטים אחרונים במקום לפני שהתחלנו לרדת למטה. ירדנו את כל 1755 המדרגות בחזרה וכעת היה עלינו ללכת את תשעת הקילומטרים על מסילת הרכבת עד למפעל ההידרואלקטרי ולהסעה שלנו בחזרה לקוסקו שיוצאת בשלוש בצהריים. הליכה לא פשוטה אחרי יום שלם של התרוצצות ועליית מדרגות במאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו. ג׳ולייט, קרלה ואני הלכנו בקצב טוב והספקנו להגיע הרבה לפני ההסעה. אפילו הספקנו לאכול צהריים. האיסוף למיניבוסים מתבצע בצורה מטומטמת להפליא. כמה פרואנים שצועקים שמות של אנשים ומושיבים אותם בקבוצות בין ים התיירים הנמצאים במקום. כמעט בלתי אפשרי לדעת באיזה מיניבוס אתה עד שלא יקראו בשמך, דבר שיכול לקחת שעות. למזלי קראו בשמי מהר וקרלה וג׳ולייט המסכנות נאלצו לחכות למיניבוס אחר. הנסיעה לקוסקו ארוכה מאוד ועוברת בכבישים צרים ומפותלים. באמצע הדרך הנהג עוצר בכפרון קטן שבו הוא שוטף את האוטו והתיירים קונים שטויות מהחנויות שבצידי הדרך. החלטתי שכשאחזור לקוסקו אעבור להוסטל של ג׳ולייט וקרלה ולכן כשהגעתי לעיר היה לי את התענוג של ללכת להוסטל שלי, לקחת את כל החפצים וללכת כעשרים דקות בגשם ובכמאתיים מדרגות עד ההוסטל החדש. המאמץ היה שווה, המיטה הייתה מצוינת והפיצה לארוחת הערב בהוסטל גם כן.

5,122 Replies to “טרק הסלקנטאי ומאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו”

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