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החלטתי לנסוע תחילה לפאראקאס. חצי אי הנמצא דרומית ללימה ומפורסם בחופים האדומים שבו על רקע הנוף המדברי. ירדתי בטרמינל הצפוני בלימה ונפרדתי מאורי. מהר מאוד הבנתי את טעותי. האוטובוסים לפאראקאס יוצאים מהטרמינל הדרומי ולא מזה שירדתי בו. ראיתי שלאוטובוסים של הבוקר כבר לא אספיק להגיע ולכן תכננתי להגיע לזה של 13 בצהריים. אכלתי בוקר ונחתי קצת לפני הנסיעה. עליתי על המטרו של לימה ונסעתי אל הטרמינל הנכון. עליתי על האוטובוס הקצר והגעתי תוך שעה וחצי ליישוב פאראקאס שסמוך לחצי האי. ג׳ודית שפגשתי בהוארז הגיעה גם היא לפאראקאס והמליצה לי על הוסטל טוב. באינטרנט ההוסטל היה מלא לחלוטין ולכן החלטתי ללכת אליו פיסית וכמובן שנמצאה לי מיטה פנויה. פגשתי שם את ג׳ודית ועוד שתי שוויצריות, נטלי וסלאמה ובילינו ביחד עד שעות הערב. בלילה נפגשנו שוב והפעם הצטרף אלינו מקסיקני בשם מריו. באותו לילה היה ערב טריוויה בהוסטל. השתתפנו כקבוצה ולקחנו את המקום השלישי והמכובד. ג׳ודית ואני החלטנו שלמחרת נשכיר אופניים ונצא לטייל בחצי האי.
התעוררנו מוקדם ויצאנו לדרך כבר בשמונה וחצי. האופניים שהשכרתי היו מחורבנים למדי וכמובן שהיה כמעט בלתי אפשרי להעביר הילוכים. נסענו בנוף המדברי ונכנסנו לשטח השמורה. המשכנו בנסיעה של עוד כעשרה ק״מ בכביש משובש שבסופו הגענו לתצפית הראשונה והיפה על הים. אנשים עם מצנחי רחיפה קפצו ללא הרף מהתצפית וטסו מעל החוף והים. היה יום חם מאוד, הרבה זמן עבר מאז שהרגשתי חום ישראלי כזה. המשכנו בנסיעה לאורך דרך עפר ועברנו כמה תצפיות יפות עם נוף מדברי שמאוד מזכיר את הנגב. הגענו אל פלאיה רוחו (החוף האדום), שבו חול הים אדום – בורדו. מאוד מרשים לראות את הגלים מתנפצים על החול המיוחד. פגשנו שם גם את נטלי וסלאמה שהגיעו באוטובוס. מחשבותינו להיכנס ולשחות בים התפוגגו מהר לאחר שהרגשנו את הרוח הקרה. לאחר מכן המשכנו בדרכינו אל המפרץ לגואינס שבו עוגנות כל סירות הדייג ומיליון שקנאים ושחפים מתרוצצים לכל עבר בחיפוש אחר שאריות דגים. משם המשכנו לנקודה הבאה, חוף ״לה מינה״ שחייב אותנו לטפס עם האופניים המתפרקות עלייה תלולה וקשה. החוף היה הנחמד ביותר עד כה. נוף המצוקים המדבריים בשילוב עם מי האוקיינוס יוצרים מראה מיוחד. הכנסנו רגליים למים וישבנו על החול החם והנעים, תוך שאנחנו צוחקים על פרואנים שמצטלמים בפוזות מביכות במיוחד. הדרך חזרה הייתה פשוטה, נאלצנו לטפס שוב את העלייה התלולה אך הפעם חיכה לנו כביש סלול ונוח שהוביל כל הדרך אל פאראקס. בדרך עפה המפה מהכיס שלי והתחילה להתעופף ברוח לעומק המדבר. רדפתי אחריה בכל כוחי אך פשוט לא הצלחתי להשיג אותה. ג׳ודית מאוד צחקה עליי. רגע לפני שהגענו בחזרה לעיירה עצרנו במרכז המבקרים של הפארק שהיה מפתיע מאוד לטובה. מסודר, רציני ובעל תצוגות מאוד רלוונטיות על המקום. בכניסה השומר לקח את כרטיסי הכניסה שלנו לפארק וביציאה התחלפו השומרים. נאלצנו להסביר בספרדית מאוד עילגת ותנועות ידיים שלקחו לנו את הכרטיסים. מבדר. חזרנו לעיירה, החזרנו את האופניים ולאחר סיבוב קצר בעיירה החלטנו לאכול בהוסטל עייפים ומרוצים.
למחרת התעוררתי מוקדם, ארגנתי את הציוד שלי ושמתי אותו לאחסון בהוסטל. יצאתי אל הרציף ועליתי על ההפלגה של שמונה בבוקר אל האיים שמול חצי האי. איים שנחשבים גם הם ל״גלאפאגוס לעניים״. כמות בעלי החיים שנמצאים על האיים לא אמיתית. וכמו בגלאפאגוס, ממש לא אכפת להם מהאנשים שמסתובבים סביבם עם הסירות הרועשות. אריות ים, ציפורי מים, סרטנים וגולת הכותרת – פינגווינים. כולם חיים על האיים בכמויות מסחריות. מקום סופר מרשים. על אחד האיים ישנה גבעה ענקית ושחורה שרק כאשר מתקרבים אליה מבינים שאלו מיליוני ציפורים שחורות המקננות על האי. בשל כמות הציפורים המטורפת האיים צבועים לחלוטין בלבן מהקקי שלהן (המכונה גוונאקו). אחת לכמה שנים הפרואנים מנקים את האיים ולוקחים מאות טונות של גוונאקו המשמשים לדישון וחקלאות. חזרנו בסירות המהירות לחוף, שבשילוב עם הרוח והשפריצים מהגלים הפכו את הדרך לקרב מאוד. מיד כשהגענו מיהרתי לקחת את החפצים מההוסטל ולרוץ אל טרמינל האוטובוסים. הצלחתי במשימה ובשניות האחרונות עליתי על האוטובוס אל התחנה הבאה, העיר איקה ונווה המדבר וואקצ׳ינה הצמוד אליה.

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