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למחרת יצאתי לדרך, לקחתי את הציוד והלכתי לתפוס מונית אל הטרמינל. פגשתי עוד זוג תיירים אנגליים ונסעתי ביחד איתם אל הטרמינל. הצלחתי במשימה ועליתי על האוטובוס לטילקארה, הכפר המרכזי והתיירותי באזור הזה. נסיעה של כשעה וחצי. פשוט לא ייאמן, כמו קסם, לאחר כעשרים דקות עוברים את ההרים שמסביב סן סלבדור וברגע אחד כל יערות הגשם הירוקים מתחלפים בהרים מדבריים. בחיים לא ראיתי כזה שינוי קיצוני במרחק כל כך קצר. טילקארה עצמה מאוד מזכירה את סן פדרו. מעין מערב פרוע ותיירותי. בתי חימר ולבנים ואווירה מאוד אינדיאנית ילידית. בהוסטל בטילקארה פגשתי את קלאודיה, בחורה פולניה שמסתבר והייתה איתי גם בהוסטל בסן סלבדור. התחברנו מיד והחלטנו לצאת לטייל אל מפל ״גרון השטן״ שליד טילקארה. ההליכה היא במעלה דרך עפר לא מאוד קשה. נופים מדבריים עם הרים בצבעי אדום ולבן וגוונים ירוקים ושחורים מידי פעם. ככל שהתקדמנו ועלינו בגובה נחשפנו יותר ויותר למדבר רחב הידיים שבאזור. בקצה הטיפוס הגענו אל השמורה, ירדנו במדרגות צרות אל קניון צר והתחלנו ללכת בתוכו עד המפל. מפל מאוד מאכזב ביחס לשם המפוצץ שקיבל ״גרון השטן״. מדובר במפל בין הסלעים האדומים שאינו יותר מזרם מים חלש ולא גבוה במיוחד. אבל עדיין יפה. בהמשך השמורה יורדים בסולם אל המשכו של הנקיק ונגלה לפניך הנוף המטורף של העמק המדברי שמלמטה. הלכנו לאורך צידי הקניון ועל סכין של שלוחה יפה. קקטוסים מאוד מוזרים בכל פינה. התחלנו לחזור לכיוון ההוסטל אותה דרך שהגענו. הפעם השמש התחילה לשקוע וצבעה בשבילנו את ההרים שגם ככה אדומים בגוון אף יותר אדום. הסתובבנו מעט בטילקארה התיירותית, אכלנו אמפנאדס וגלידה וביררנו לגבי האוטובוס למחר, תחילה אל היישוב פורממארקה והר שבעת הצבעים ולאחר מכן אל העיר סלטה. לארוחת ערב אכלתי בפאב מסעדה נחמד באווירה מאוד היפית.
קלאודיה ואני התעוררנו מוקדם יחסית בבוקר למחרת, אכלנו בוקר ויצאנו אל תחנת האוטובוס. עלינו על אוטובוס מקומי וצפוף אל פורממארקה, נסיעה של 40 דקות. האוטובוס היה עמוס בילדים שהולכים לבית הספר ובשוטרים שבדרכם לעבודה. היישוב פורממארקה קטן בהרבה מטילקארה וגם בו יש אווירה ילידית מאוד. המקום מפורסם בשל הר שבעת הצבעים שלידו (כן כן גם לארגנטינה יש אחד כזה). קלאודיה ואני טיילנו בשביל מסודר שמקיף את היישוב ולוקח אל נקודות התצפיות היפות ביותר על ההר. בשונה מהר הצבעים בפרו, כאן האזור הוא מדברי ונמוך בהרבה, כך שכל הצבעים, הגדלים והצמחיה שונים לחלוטין. אי אפשר באמת להשוות. סלעים ומצוקים מחורצים אדומים מופיעים בהרים הלבנים הגדולים, לא קשורים וכאילו שהונחתו למקומם מהשמיים. הגענו לתצפית יפה מעל הכפר ומשם ראינו את ההר המדובר. אכן מאוד יפה, אך הנוף שמסביב היה יפה וצבעוני בהרבה לדעתי. באמת הצלחנו לספור שבעה צבעים על ההר. גם כאן הצבעים מסודרים אחד אחרי השני, כמו קשת. חזרנו אל היישוב ועלינו על האוטובוס בחזרה לטילקארה. לקחנו את הציוד שלנו מההוסטל והלכנו אל הטרמינל. נסיעה ארוכה יחסית לפנינו כרגע, אל התחנה הבאה שלנו, העיר הגדולה והחשובה סלטה שבצפון ארגנטינה.

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