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צפויים להגיע רק בעוד כמה שבועות. כך גם התנפצו תקוותי לדוג באותו יום. משם נסעתי לאגם נחמד בקרבת ואלדז שנקרא רוב לייק. החנתי את הרכב על שפת המים, אכלתי לצהריים את מה שנשאר מהפיצה של אתמול וישנתי שנת צהריים מהסרטים, עם הנוף לאגם. באמת שאין יותר כיף מזה. חזרתי לעיר ונסעתי לנמל הדייג. רוב הספינות כבר חזרו ורק האחרונות נשארו לפרוק את הסחורה. צפיתי באדם מאוד מיומן שלימד אותי כיצד לנקות סלמון. הוא גרם לזה להיראות כל כך פשוט. מי יודע אולי עוד יצא לי לדוג בשבועות הקרובים.עשיתי עוד סיבוב רגלי נחמד בעיר השלווה ויצאתי למסלול הליכה של כ-6 ק״מ שעולה עד לאגם המלאכותי שנוצר מהסכר והמפעל ההידרואלקטרי שמספק חשמל לעיר. בגלל שכל האזור נמצא על שבר טקטוני משמעותי, שאף ב-1964 גרם לרעידת האדמה המתועדת ה-2 בעוצמתה בהיסטוריה והחרבת ואלדז לחלוטין, קיימת סכנה אמיתי שהסכר יקרוס ונחשול מים ענקי יצא לדרכו. בכל האזור שמתחת לסכר קיימים שלטי אזהרה רבים המורים לאן להתפנות במידה ונשמעת אזעקה. ואני עוד חשבתי שבארץ מפחיד. העפלתי במשך כשעתיים עד הסכר והאגם שהיו שווים את זה מאוד. הפעם הקשבתי לטיפ מאחד הריינג׳רים ופשוט הלכתי כל הדרך עם מוסיקה בעוצמה חזקה מהטלפון. קצת מקלקל אבל ככה אין סיכוי שאף דוב יהיה מופתע לראות אותי. המסלול היה מפוצץ ביתושים וכשחזרתי לאוטו גיליתי שלמרות הספריי נגד יתושים ספגתי מספר לא מבוטל של עקיצות. בערב חזרתי על אותו התרגיל מסקגווי והחנתי את הרכב בחנייה של מוזיאון העיר. שוב ניצחתי ולא גירשו אותי.היום שלמחרת הוא שוב יום נסיעה. קמתי וארגנתי את הרכב בזמן שיא. היום אסע לכיוון אנקורג׳ בדרכי לחצי האי קינאי. חזרתי במשך כ-100 מייל בדרך היפיפייה לגלאנאלן, משם התחלתי לנסוע מערבה לכיוון אנקורג׳. לאחר כשלושים מייל עשיתי אירוך ופניתי בדרך לאגם לואיס (שהוא לא אגם לואיז המפורסם בקנדה). האגם גדול מאוד ובקתות עץ מפוזרת על חופיו. מקום מאוד הומה יחסית לאלסקה. השמש הייתה באמצע השמיים ובלי שום ענן. חם. באלסקה. שכבתי על החוף, אכלתי חטיף והשתזפתי בשמש. בינתיים במים מולי עברו סירות קטנות עם אנשים שניסו לדוג במי האגם. לאחר כחצי שעה חזרתי לרכב והמשכתי בדרכי. חציתי את פסגת יוריקה ממנה נשקף נוף יפה על רכס הרי צ׳וגאש שהלך והתקרב אליי. מכאן הדרך הפכה להררית מאוד. עליות וירידות, כבישים מפותלים ובעיקר חם מאוד. המזגן ברכב שלי לא פועל וזו הייתה הפעם הראשונה בטיול שבהחלט הייתי מפעיל אותו לו היה אפשר. בהמשך הדרך חלפתי על פני קרחון מטנוסקה העצום. עצרתי לבדוק אפשרות לעשות בדרך את באומגה המהירה ביותר באלסקה אך ויתרתי. לאחר עוד כחצי שעה סיימתי את הכביש המפותל וההררי ופתאום הגעתי לעיר פאלמר. שינוי האווירה שמקבלים בכניסה לעיר הוא מוחלט. רמזורים, פקקים ורשתות ג׳אנק בכל עבר. פתאום חזרתי לארה״ב. פאלמר נמצאת כבר במטרופולין של אנקורג׳ וממוקמת כשלושים ק״מ צפונית אליה. כשהייתי בארה״ב בפעם הקודמת לפני עשר שנים מאוד אהבתי לאכול בוונדיס, רשת המבורגריות שמאוד מזכירה את מקדונלדס, רק איכותית יותר. ניצלתי את ההזדמנות ואכלתי צהריים בוונדיס שראיתי בפאלמר. הצלחה וסגירת מעגל. המשך הדרך לאנקורג׳ כבר הרגישה כמו עיר גדולה בארה״ב לכל דבר ועניין. אוטוסטרדות עם שלושה נתיבים, גשרים ומחלפים גדולים. עיר שהייתה משתלבת באופן מושלם בכל מקום בארה״ב. ההבדל היחיד והדרך לראות שאני עדיין באלסקה הוא הפסגות המושלגות שהמשיכו להקיף מכל עבר, ושלטי אזהרה ממוסים שמתפרצים לכביש. לא יאמן שאני עדיין באותה מדינה. איך יכול להיות שהכפרים הקטנים והמיוחדים בהם הייתי בימים האחרונים והעיר המפלצתית הזו נמצאים באותה מדינה. אנקורג׳ היא העיר הגדולה באלסקה המאכלסת כ-300 אלף תושבים. היא בעצם המטרופולין הגדול והיחיד באזור בערך עד ונקובר. כתוצאה מכך, העיר הפכה למרכז האספקה של כל אלסקה פחות או יותר ונמצאות בה חנויות וקניונים רבים. בשל קרבתה לים והעובדה שהיא מוקפת בהרים מכל הכיוונים גם מזג האוויר באנקורג׳ טוב וחם ביחס לשאר המדינה, כאשר גם בחורף תנאי המחיה לא רעים בכלל. הגעתי עם הרכב והחנתי במרכז העיר ליד מפקדת המשטרה ובית המשפט העליון. יום ראשון, כל החניות חינם. יצאתי להסתובב במרכז העיר וגיליתי אווירה מיוחדת. איכשהו למרות מרכזיותה, אנקורג׳ הצליחה לשמור על תדמית שקטה ושלווה. בניינים יחסית נמוכי קומות ואימוץ התרבות והאסטטיקה של אלסקה, במקום דחייתם והפיכה לעיר אורבנית סתמית. הסתובבתי כשעה וחצי במרכז העיר והגעתי לשוק איכרים מקומי שבדיוק היה בשלבי סגירה. לפני שאעזוב את העיר ואחזור לטבע החלטתי לעשות משהו כיפי. הלכתי לקולנוע ענק מקומי וראיתי את הסרט רוקטמן על אלטון ג׳ון – סרט מצוין. כשיצאתי מהסרט עליתי על הרכב והמשכתי דרומה לכיוון חצי האי קינאי. הפעם זו הייתה רק טעימה מאנקורג׳, בה אהיה כמו שצריך בעוד כמה ימים כשאסיים בקינאי. התחלתי לנסוע לאורך חופיו של מפרץ טרנאגיין שמדרום לעיר. בשני צידיו הרים גבוהים ומושלגים ובאמצע ים. חיפשתי מקום לישון ועצרתי באחת היציאות שראיתי לאורך הדרך. הגעתי ל״בלוגה פוינט״. המקום היה הומה אדם. המוני אנשים באו לשם לראות את השקיעה היפה במימי המפרץ. ליד החנייה היה גם סלע גדול שבלט מהמים ומשך אליו לא מעט אנשים שעל מנת להגיע אליו נאלצו לחצות מסילת רכבת. גם אני לא נותרתי אדיש, חציתי את המסילה (חוויה די מפחידה) ועליתי על הסלע לראות את השקיעה. היה שווה את זה. תכננתי להישאר במקום עם הרכב ולישון שם, אבל ההמוניות של האנשים במקום הדאיגה אותי שמע יבוא שוטר או פקח. החלטתי להמשיך ולמצוא מקום שקט יותר. לאחר עוד כמה ק״מ מצאתי יציאה נוספת, קטנה בהרבה בה היה רק קראוון אחד. נשארתי ללון שם. למחרת אכלתי ארוחת בוקר בחניה ויצאתי אל עיירת הסקי החביבה גירדווד. אם עד עכשיו היה נדמה לי שאני בנורבגיה כל הזמן, בגירדווד אתה מרגיש לחלוטין בשוויץ. העיירה מתעוררת מאוד לחיים בחורף ומהווה אחד מאתרי הסקי המרכזיים באזור. בגלל קרבתה לים וההרים הגבוהים המקיפים אותה, מתאפיינת העיירה, ביחד עם כל אזור החוף הדרומי של אלסקה בכמויות משקעים עצומות. זהו בעצם יער הגשם הצפוני בעולם. מדי שנה נאלצים להתמודד התושבים באזורים הללו עם כ-8 מטר של שלג! זו הסיבה לכך שכל ההרים באזור נשארו עדיין לבנים לחלוטין ומלאים בקרחונים. 
בגירדווד החלטתי לצאת לטיול הליכה רגלי. לעלות עד לתחנת הגונדולות העליונה ולרדת בחינם בגונדולה. לא חשבתי על כך שההליכה תהיה עד כדי כך קשה. אורך המסלול הוא כשלושה ק״מ והוא מטפס כ-710 מטרים. לקינוח בסיום המסלול ישנם 12 פיתולים אימתניים ותלולים במיוחד. סיימתי את המסלול, שהיה מהמם, תוך שעה ולמדתי ממנו שני לקחים חשובים. 1.לקחת איתי בגדים להחלפה – הזעתי בטירוף בדרך למעלה. 2. לצאת להליכות רק עם הנעלי הליכה – הרדבק פצעו לי את שתי הרגליים. כשהגעתי למעלה נחתי קצת, אכלתי חטפים, התרשמתי מהנוף המושלג וירדתי בגונדולה למטה בכדי לאכול צהריים בעיירה. לאחר מכן המשכתי לכיוון עיירת הדייג וויטייר, הנמצאת לאורך מפרץ הנסיך וויליאם. על מנת להגיע אליה נאלצים לעבור במנהרה הארוכה ביותר בצפון אמריקה, כ-2.5 מייל. מדהים שכשנכנסתי למנהרה השמיים היו כחולים לחלוטין, אך כשיצאתי בצידו השני של ההר, שמיים אפורים וקודרים. אין באמת מה לעשות יותר מידי בוויטייר, עיירת דייג ונמל מאכזבת למדי שבעיקר משמשת להעברת סחורות. כנראה שכשהתיירים מאוניות הקרוזים מגיעים אליה הם לא נהנים מאוד. חזרתי במנהרה, עצרתי לתצפית על קרחון פורטרג׳ והמשכתי ליעד הבא שלי – חניון הלילה בעיירה קופר לנדינג. בשל טעות שלי בהבנת היעד, הגעתי בטעות לעיירה הופ, שבעבר הייתה עיירת כורים חשובה, אך היום קטנה מאוד כשבתיה מפוזרים בין עצי האשוח הגדולים שבה. משם חזרתי לכביש הנכון והמשכתי דרומה בחצי האי עד לעיירה קופר לנדינג השוכנת למד אגם קינאי הכחול- תורכיז. לאחר התמהמהות במציאת מקום לינה, מצאתי לינה נחמדה בחניון של אחת מתחנות הדלק. קניתי ג׳רקי (בשר מיובש – חטיף אמריקאי) מכמה סוגים כדי לנסות, הכנתי ארוחת ערב והלכתי לשתות בירה בפאב שנמצא ממש מול רכבי. מחר אמשיך את דרכי בחצי האי קינאי ואגיע להומר.

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