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כמובן שגם הבוקר קמנו מאוחר. בדירה היה חדר שינה אחד עם מזגן ובסלון ספות שנפתחו למיטה ענקית. גם היום הכנו טוסטים ואכלנו קורנפלקס כארוחת בוקר מאוחרת. החלטנו שאת היום ננצל בחוף הים של סלבדור. הלכנו אל המגדלור המפורסם שבקצה חצי האי והתמקמנו בחוף שלצידו. חוף חולי, מעט סלעי עם מים כחולים וחמימים. טבילה ראשונה שלי בטיול באוקיינוס האטלנטי, עד עכשיו הייתי אך ורק בצד הפסיפי. המוני אנשים מילאו את החוף הארוך שמשתרע לקילומטרים. שתינו קייפיריניות (סוג של מוחיטו ברזילאי) והשתזפנו לנו בחוף ובמים. ככל שעבר הזמן יותר ויותר יאכטות וספינות עגנו להן מול החוף. החל מהשעה חמש אחר הצהריים המשאיות המטורפות של הקרנבל החלו להתקדם, כאשר מסלולן היה בכביש, ממש מאחורינו. כך שהיינו במים ובחוף, שמענו וראינו את משאיות הקרנבל אך לא נדרשנו להצטופף במרק האנשים שמסביבן. זו בדיוק הסיבה שכל היאכטות עגנו מול החוף, הכרטיס הטוב ביותר למופע. מעלינו טסו להם רחפנים רבים שצילמו את המשאיות והקרנבל, וכן מסוק משטרתי עם שוטר חמוש בדלת המסוק, שפיטרל הלוך וחזור עם זרקור חזק. בתוך הקרנבל עצמו גם מורגשת נוכחות משטרתית, כאשר טורים של שוטרים מסתובבים בין החוגגים ועמדות משטרתיות הצופות על הרחוב בכל כמאה מטרים. לא שזה מפריע יותר מידי לכייסים שחוגגים עם המוני טלפונים וארנקים. חזרנו לדירה להתארגן להערב. קבעתי עם איינה שהיום אבלה את הקרנבל איתה. באחת המשאיות המוקדמות הופיעו ההרכב מייז׳ור לייזר. יצאתי לשם עם השותפים והלכנו לצד המשאית. לאחר כשעה התפצלנו, ואני הלכתי לפגוש את איינה מול ההוסטל שלה. חגגנו ורקדנו מול המגדלור. עמדנו בצד כך שהיינו יכולים לצפות ולשמוע את כל המשאיות שחלפו על פנינו. נשארנו עד מאוחר כאשר כבר לפנות בוקר החגיגות החלו להיפסק וברחוב היו רק קבוצות אנשים שהיו בדרכם חזרה הביתה. אכלנו וישבנו בתצפית על החוף. ליוויתי את איינה להוסטל והלכתי לישון.
למחרת שוב בוקר שגרתי וקימה מאוחרת. בצהריים נפגשתי עם איינה והלכנו אל החוף ביחד. הלכנו הפעם אל חוף שונה מזה שהייתי בו אתמול, חוף הנמצא בצידו השני של המגדלור, אשר לפי מה ששמעתי הרוחצים בו פוצחים במחיאות כפיים סוערות כאשר השמש שוקעת במימי המפרץ הכחולים. החוף היה עמוס להפליא, אפילו יותר מהקודם. בילינו לנו ביחד עם כמויות הברזילאים הרבות על החוף. לימדתי את איינה כיצד לזהות ישראלים והיא הצליחה באחוזים מרשימים. בילינו במים, על כסאות נוח ומתחת לשמשיה, מעיפים מבט על החפצים שלנו בכל כמה שניות. נשארנו עד שהשמש שקעה ולאכזבתינו לא היו מחיאות כפיים. בערב קבענו שנצא כולם ביחד. כולנו היינו כבר מאוד עייפים מהחגיגות ולכן נשארנו בדירה עד מאוחר, גם הרבה אחריי שאיינה הגיעה והצטרפה אלינו לדירה. שתינו המון קייפיריניות ובירות ולבסוף יצאנו. זה היה הלילה היחיד שהרשיתי לעצמי לקחת את הטלפון לקרנבל, אחרי שכבר קיבלתי מושג כללי מה הולך שם. שמרתי עליו מכל משמר והצלחתי להחזיר אותו בשלום מבלי שיגנב. בלילה ליוויתי את איינה אל ההוסטל החדש שלה, אשר הדרך אליו הייתה לא מאוד סימפטית מאוחר בלילה, בעיקר בימי הקרנבל. את הדרך בחזרה עשיתי לבדי, ברחובות מפוקפקים, מכניס את עצמי למקרה שוד קלאסי. שמחתי שלא לקחתי כלום ואת הפלאפון השארתי בדירה. כמו נס, ברגע שרציתי לחזור אל הדירה התחיל גשם חזק מאוד שגרם לכולם להיכנס פנימה. ניצלתי את הגשם והלכתי ברחובות בחזרה לדירה מבלי שראיתי איש.
החגיגות מעט נמאסו עליי, חמישה ימים רצופים של מסיבות זה יותר מידי בשבילי. החלטתי שהיום למחרת יהיה היום האחרון שלי, ושבלילה אקח את האוטובוס אל העיירה לנסויס שליד שמורת שפאדה דיאמנטינה היפהפיה. עידו, שקד וכרמל החליטו גם הם להצטרף אליי. לפנות בוקר הגיע לדירה הדר, חבר של שקד, עידו וארתור מהצבא, שבא במיוחד מארה״ב לימי הקרנבל האחרונים. אנחנו לעומת זאת, ניצלנו את היום האחרון שלנו באכילת צהריים טובה ובבילוי בים. שוב ראינו את המשאיות הענקיות מציגות את המופעים שלהם ואת נחשול האנשים המלווה אותן. גם הפעם כמויות יאכטות וסירות עגנו מול החוף ותצפתו. בהחלט מיציתי את החוויה. המסיבות מטורפות, אך מלוות בדברים פחות נעימים. צפיפות, פחד מכייסים, שירותים מסריחים ומגעילים ביותר. חוויה טובה, אבל של פעם בחיים בשבילי. הקרנבל בסלבדור שונה בתכלית מזה של ריו, לא הצלחנו לראות באמת מופעי סמבה ואת התלבושות המסורתיות, אלא רק מסיבות רחוב ענקיות. אולי היינו צריכים להישאר ברובע העתיק יותר. אני יצאתי עם מעט תחושת החמצה. חזרנו אל הדירה, נפרדתי מאיינה ולאחר מכן לקחנו את חפצינו, נפרדנו משקד, אופק והדר ועלינו על מונית אל טרמינל האוטובוסים. הצלחנו למצוא את האוטובוס ולעלות עליו בזמן. התחנה הבאה, העיירה לנסויס ושמורת שפאדה דיאמנטינה.

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