הקרטרה אוסטרל בטרמפים – חלק ב׳

כשלמדתי על המקומות לאורך הקרטרה, הופיע שמה של שמורת סרו קסטיו מספר פעמים כמקום מרהיב שנותן פייט אפילו לטורס דל פיינה. מאוד פקפקתי בדבר. עכשיו כשהגעתי לעיירה וייה סרו קסטיו, השוכנת ממש למרגלות ההר חשבתי לעצמי ששוב צדקתי ובאמת הפריזו. לא ידעתי עד כמה אגלה שטעיתי מאוחר יותר. אור ואני תכננו לצאת אל השמורה למסלול חד יומי שבו נעלה כקילומטר ומאה מטרים בגובה אל התצפית על הלגונה והקרחון שבקצה ההר. סרו קסטיו (או ״הר המצודה״ בעברית) קיבל את שמו מכך שנראה כמו טירה ענקית השוכנת על פסגת הרכס. ישנה אפשרות ללכת במסלול המקיף את השמורה במשך 4 ימים, אך בשל כמות הדברים שנותרו לי להספיק עד הקרנבל בחרתי לעשות את המסלול הקצר. אור הגיע אליי לקמפינג ורגע לפני שיצאנו למסלול פגשנו בישראלית, תל אביבית, בשנות ה-30 לחייה בשם רלי שרצתה להצטרף אלינו. כמובן שהסכמנו. אחרי התבלבלות קלה במסלול הצלחנו להגיע אל הכניסה לשמורה. נחרדנו לגלות שמכיוון שהמסלול עובר גם בשטח פרטי אנחנו נדרשים לשלם פעמיים, והמחיר גבוה להפליא. יותר ממחצית המחיר של טורס דל פיינה. לא הייתה לנו ברירה ונכנסנו בכל זאת. היעד הופיע לפנינו היטב. טירת הסלע הענקית שבפסגת ההר. התחלנו ללכת ביער יפה. היה יום חם מאוד, אך ההליכה, לפחות בחלק הזה, לא הייתה קשה במיוחד. העלייה הייתה מתונה ולאט לאט נחשף בפנינו המראה אחורנית, של העיירה והעמק. עצרנו לנוח ולהתקרר מהחום מתחת לצל של עץ גדול והמשכנו בדרך. ככל שהתקדמנו העלייה הפכה ליותר ויותר תלולה, אך הרבה פחות נוראה משציפינו. לבסוף חלפנו מעבר לקו העצים וקיבלנו את ה״וואו״ האמיתי. העמק שמאחורינו נפתח ונחשף במלוא התגלמותו. אפשר היה לראות לעשרות קילומטרים לכל כיוון. אגמים, נהרות, יערות, הרים וקרחונים. קיבלנו את הכל לפרצוף, בום, בכל מבט לאופק. המראה הפריע לי להתקדם שכן הסתכלתי לצדדים במקום על השביל. לבסוף הגענו לקצה העלייה ואל המראה ללגונה והקרחון. חתיכת הר מפלצתי. גוש סלע שחור עצום שעליו יושב הקרחון וממנו שפכים המים אל תוך הלגונה הכחולה. פשוט ישבנו שם ונהנינו. כל הסקפטיות שלי אודות המקום התפוגגה ברגע, באמת אחד המקומות היפים בצ׳ילה אם לא בדרום אמריקה ובעולם בכלל. כמובן שהיו במקום עוד ישראלים שהדליקו אש למרות שאסור. אנחנו רק אכלנו את הסנדוויצ׳ים שלנו בשקט. היה כל כך נעים על הפסגה שאפילו הצלחתי להירדם. רלי הגיעה למעלה כמה דקות אחרינו וגם בשבילה המסלול לא היה נורא. כשהתחלנו לרדת פתאום ראינו את שני הצ׳יליאנים שישבנו איתם אתמול מסיימים את העלייה ונפרדנו מהם. אור ואני ירדנו את השביל מהר מאוד, אפילו רצנו בחלקו. החלטנו שנגיע מוקדם למטה, נקפל את החפצים ונוכל לתפוס טרמפים לקויוהאקי כבר באותו יום. דהרנו למטה והצלחנו לחזור לקמפינגים שלנו כבר בתוך שעה. אור התארגן מהר והלך לנסות לתפוס טרמפ בעוד שאני הייתי איטי ממנו ועדיין התארגנתי. למזלי, היה תור בטרמפיאדה והספקתי להצטרף לאור שעדיין עמד שם. חיכינו כשעה ולפתע עצר ואן לידינו והעמיס את כל הטרמפיסטים לחלקו האחורי. שישה אנשים שנדחסים לחלל קטן, ללא כסאות ובין ציוד ומוצ׳ילות. טרמפ מעולה. הנסיעה הפכה להרבה יותר נעימה לאחר ששניים מהטרמפיסטים ירדו באמצע הדרך והצלחנו מעט להתמתח. לאחר כשעה וחצי נסיעה הגענו לקויוהאקי, העיר של הקרטרה. מקום קצת יותר גדול ומרכזי מקוקריין, אך שעדיין לא הייתי מכנה ממש כעיר. הצלחנו למצוא קמפינג נחמד וקטן במרכז. איכשהו מבין האנשים הבודדים שהיו שם, היו עוד זוג ישראלים וישראלי- גרמני דובר עברית. מוזר. החלטתי שגם היום נאכל ארוחת ערב כמו שצריך. ראיתי שזוג צרפתים שאיתנו בקמפינג אוכל פיצה וביררתי מהם על המקום, שמסתבר שממש היה בבית מעבר לפינה. הלכנו למקום וגילינו מאפיה סופר נחמדה. אור ואני חיסלנו בקלילות שתי פיצות וקינחנו באמפנדס. בעלי המקום היו מאוד חברותיים ודיברו איתנו רבות על ישראל והחיים בפטגוניה. שבנו לקאמפ הנחמד והתאכזבנו מהמקלחת הקרה.
למחרת הלכנו אל הסופר הגדול של קויוהאקי, הצטיידנו במצרכים לימים הקרובים והלכנו אל הטרמפיאדה להמשך מסעינו. לא חיכינו זמן רב לפני שחוואי מקומי עם טנדר עצר וקידם אותנו מספר קילומטרים אל אזור שבו התבצעו עבודות בכביש. המכוניות נאלצו לעצור ואנחנו היינו יכולים לעבור אחת אחת ולנסות להצטרף. מאותה נקודה הצלחנו לעלות על רכב הסעות גדול של מלון בו הצטופפנו עם עוד שני טרמפיסטים. הנהג היה סופר נחמד ואפילו עצר לנו לצלם מפל גדול באמצע הדרך. ירדנו בצומת הידועה לשמצה, צפונה להמשך הקרטרה או מערבה לפורטו אייזן. גם הפעם המזל האיר לנו פנים ולאחר כארבעים דקות עצרה לנו אישה החוזרת לביתה שבכפר קטן בהמשך הדרך בטנדר שלה. העמסנו את כל הציוד. הצטרפו לטרמפ גם שני הטרמפיסטים הצ׳יליאנים הנוספים. האישה עצרה באמצע הדרך לקנות שקי אוכל לחיות המשק שלה ואנחנו לפחות עזרנו במשהו והעמסנו אותם על הטנדר. המשכנו בטרמפ עד לכפר הפצפון ״וילה אמנגואל״ שבו האישה גרה. ירדנו בתחנת האוטובוס של היישוב וחיכינו לטרמפ המשך. בתוכנית המקורית של אור ושלי תכננו להגיע כעת עד למסלול היער המכושף ולישון בכניסה אליו. מזג האוויר השתנה והפך לגשום וכמו כן התחיל להיות מאוחר. בשל כך, אור ואני החלטנו שנעצור בקמפינג בהמשך הדרך. מהר מאוד הצלחנו לתפוס עוד טרמפ אך רגע לפניי שעלינו לרכב גילינו שאחד מתיקיה של האישה שהסיעה אותנו קודם נשאר על המדרכה. ביקשנו מהטרמפ לנסוע לאט עד שזיהינו את הרכב והבית בו האישה גרה והחזרנו לה את התיק. ירדנו מהרכב כעשרה קילומטרים בהמשך הדרך בבית חווה נחמד שהפך חלק משטחו לקמפינג. מקום פשוט מקסים! אמצע היער והרגשה מנותקת מכל יישוב או ציוויליזציה. מימינינו ומשמאלינו רק הרים ענקיים מכוסים ביערות ירוקים. הגשם לא הפסיק לרדת ולווה במשבי רוח חזקים. הצלחנו להתמקם מתחת לסככה ולהקים את האוהלים באחת מההפוגות בגשם. בישלנו בבית המרכזי בקמפינג, שבו גם גרה המשפחה. רוב האנשים שהיו שם הזמינו מנות לארוחת ערב, אך אנחנו היינו תרמילאים אמיתיים ובישלנו לנו.
הגשם והרוח לא הפסיקו כל הלילה. האוהלים של שנינו הזדעזעו והשתקשקו מהרוחות החזקות, אך למזלינו שני האוהלים שרדו. קיפלנו את כל הציוד, נזהרנו לא לדרוך על הקקי הרב (של חיה לא ברורה) שהיה מפוזר על הדשא והלכנו בחזרה אל הכביש. מזג האוויר עדיין היה רע. ירד גשם והרוח הייתה חזקה. בשל כך החלטנו שנוותר על היער הקסום, טרק לא רשמי שמסלולו בכלל סגור למבקרים, אך אנשים רבים עושים אותו באופן פיראטי. במקום זאת, נמשיך אל נקודת העניין הבאה, הקרחון התלוי שבשמורת קהולט המפורסמת. חיכינו כארבעים וחמש דקות ביציאה מהקמפינג בגשם, ולפתע הגיח מתוך הקמפינג טנדר שעצר לנו. כמובן שקפצנו על ההזדמנות ועלינו עליו. פגשנו את פדרו, קבלן שסיים עבודה בקוקריין וכרגע חוזר צפונה אל אזור קונספסיון. פדרו צריך להגיע לשם רק בעוד יומיים ולכן ממש לא ממהר ועושה את הדרך כטיול. ביקשנו ממנו שיעצור לנו בכניסה לשמורה, אך במקום זאת, באופן ספונטני לחלוטין, פדרו לקח אותנו עם הטנדר לתוך השמורה ואף החליט שיעשה איתנו את המסלול. הטרמפ הכי טוב בעולם. מאוד התחברנו לפדרו והאווירה הייתה מצוינת. דיברנו על החיים בישראל ועל הטיולים שפדרו עשה עם משפחתו. המסלול לא היה פשוט. הליכה של שלושה וחצי קילומטרים לכיוון, בעלייה בתוך יער גשם קר ובוצי. מקום שמאוד הזכיר לי את יערות הגשם שראיתי באולימפיק שבארה״ב. בתחילת המסלול חוצים גשר תלוי מדהים ומפחיד ולאחר מכן המסלול מתפתל ועולה בתוך היער. פדרו ממש לא ציפה למסלול כזה, והלך את המסלול עם ג׳ינס וחולצה מכופתרת. לא פשוט. בקצה העלייה הגענו אל התצפית המפורסמת. אחת התמונות הידועות של הקרטרה אוסטרל. עמק רחב שבקצהו מצוק סלע ענק שעל ראשו קרחון. נראה כאילו שהקרחון הולך ליפול ממנו בכל רגע ולכן המקום נקרא הקרחון התלוי. צילמנו כמה תמונות תיירים וחזרנו למטה בדרך היפה והבוצית. פדרו היה צריך להמשיך בכל מקרה צפונה ולכן לקח אותנו גם משם. החלטנו לוותר על העיירה פויוהאפי ולהגיע כבר ישירות אל ״לה חונטה״ הסמוכה למעיין חם. נפרדנו מפדרו ויצאנו לשוטט בעיירה. הצלחנו למצוא במקום קמפינג נחמד והלכנו לקנות מצרכים לארוחת ערב. השעה הייתה אחרי הצהריים ולכן החלטנו לסיים את היום במעיין החם שליד העיירה. הבעיה היחידה שהמעיין נמצא כשלושים ק״מ מאיתנו. מה עושים? תופסים טרמפים שוב! הפעם עצר לנו טנדר עם זוג תיירים הולנדים שבלי להתבלבל אמרו לנו לעלות לארגז של הטנדר. איזה תענוג. נסיעה שלא תשכח. עשרים קילומטר בדרך עפר יפהפיה באוויר הפתוח. הרוח מבדרת את השיער וממול הרים מושלגים ופרות שבולסות עשב. לבסוף הגענו למעיין והודנו מאוד להולנדים הנחמדים. החלפנו לבגדי ים ומיד כשבאנו להיכנס גילינו שהבריכה החמה עמוסה לעייפה בישראלים. אי אפשר לפספס אותם מדברים וצוחקים בקולי קולות. מיניבוס ישראליאדה שעושה את כל הקרטרה. נכנסנו למים שהיו עכורים מעט אך חמים ונעימים ביותר, ודיברנו עם הישראלים. אפשר היה לראות ישר את ההבדל בין המטייל הישראלי הממוצע לבין אור וביני. לא היה להם מושג באילו מקומות הם היו ולאן הם הולכים. לא עניינה אותם הדרך או ההיסטוריה של המקום, סתם לעשות שטויות אחד עם השני. המעיין עצמו היה בריכה לא ענקית אך מקסימה שמוקפת בעצים ונחל זורם סביבה. ניצלנו את העובדה שהישראלים שם ותפסנו איתם ועם המיניבוס שלהם טרמפ בחזרה ללה חונטה, ובכך ״זכינו״ לחוות איך מרגישה נסיעה בוואן ישראלים. חוויה תרבותית ללא ספק. צעקות בעברית, בלאגן, מוסיקה ישראלית בפול ווליום. רחמיי על הנהג המסכן שצריך לסבול אותם במשך כשבוע מבלי להבין כלום. ובשביל להוסיף על כך, אין שום יכולת תקשורת בין הישראלים לנהג שכן הם לא מדברים מילה בספרדית והוא לא מדבר מילה באנגלית. לאחר כחצי שעה נסיעה הגענו בחזרה לקמפינג שלנו. אור ואני הסתכלנו אחד על השני מזועזעים והודנו לאל שאנחנו לא במיניבוס שכזה. התחלנו להכין את ארוחת הערב. חיכו לנו סטייקים עסיסיים שאליהם הוספנו פירה ופסטה בולונז. כמובן ששתינו יין לבן. חיים על רמה. כשכבר התחלנו לקפל ולשטוף את הכלים הבנו שקורה משהו מעניין בעיירה. שמענו רעשים מוזרים מרחוק וכן אורות בשמיים. בעלת המקום אמרה שזהו שבוע חגיגות ביישוב לרגל יום השנה להקמתו ושבכיכר המרכזית ישנה הופעה של להקה ארגנטינאית מפורסמת- אמאר אזול. היינו מאוד סקפטיים. אנחנו בחור מארץ החורים, ביישוב קטן, מה כבר יש ללהקה ארגנטינאית להגיע לכאן. החלטנו ללכת לבדוק את הסיפור ופשוט לא האמנו. מאות אנשים קופצים ורוקדים אל מול במה גדולה ולהקה שנשמעת לא רע. מטורף. היינו התיירים היחידים בין ים צ׳יליאנים שהגיעו מכל היישובים שבאזור רק בכדי להגיע לחגיגה. נשארנו לשמוע ולרקוד עד שההופעה נגמרה. החלטנו לא להמשיך אל אולם הספורט שבו אמורה להתחיל מסיבה עד שעות הבוקר שכן גם מחר יעמוד בפנינו יום טרמפים ארוך ומתיש אל יעדינו הבא, עיירת הראפטינג פוטלאפו.

171 Replies to “הקרטרה אוסטרל בטרמפים – חלק ב׳”

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