המסע לסוף העולם – כביש דלטון

הרגע הגדול הגיע. החוויה שהכי ריגשה והפחידה אותי כאן. היו לי הרבה ספקות בתחילת הטיול שבכלל אצליח להגיע עם האוטו לרגע הזה, אבל הנה הוא כאן. אני עומד לצאת לכביש דלטון, הכביש שמוביל כל הדרך לאוקיאנוס הארקטי. 414 מייל (662 ק״מ) של דרך שברובה לא סלולה, בלי קליטה, בלי יישובים או שירותים כמעט בכלל, כמויות יתושים לא הגיוניות והמון משאיות ענק שדוהרות אל שדה הנפט שבים הארקטי. ואם הצלחת לעבור את כל הדרך בשלום, מעולה, עכשיו צריך לחזור אותה. רק קומץ תיירים משוגעים עושים את הדרך הזאת: קבוצות אופנוענים, ג׳יפאים מקצועניים ומחפשי צרות אוהבי טבע כמוני. להיתקע בכביש הזה זה באמת גזר דין מוות לרכב- אף גרר לא יסע 300 מייל בדרך הזאת לחלץ אותך. קמתי בבוקר ברגשות מעורבים, כבר נסעתי עם האוטו כמעט 5000 מייל ואני סומך עליו ומכיר אותו, אבל בכל זאת זה רכב ישן שנסע המון מיילים – קפיצה אחת לא טובה והלך הטיול. מה אני אמור לעשות כשאתקע באמצע בטונדרות הארקטיות? בנוסף, שכחתי לעשות כמה קניות שרציתי לפני היציאה לדרך ועכשיו כבר מאוחר מידי. מאוד הוסיף לתחושת הביטחון. מצד שני, על עצמי אני סומך והפתגם הישראלי הידוע ״יהיה בסדר״ אף פעם לא איכזב. התחלתי לנסוע לכיוון תחילת הכביש, נשארו לי עוד 30 מייל לתחילתו. בכל מייל שעובר הלב פועם חזק יותר ויותר. לפני תחילת הכביש עוד הספקתי לחלוף ליד שריפות יער גדולות שמילאו את האוויר בעשן – עוד דבר שמוסיף לתחושת הביטחון. המשכתי לנסוע ופתאום הופ, הגעתי לתחילת הדלטון הייווי. כביש שנבנה לאחר שהתגלתה כמות נפט עצומה במפרץ פרודהו שבים הארקטי. את הנפט הזה היה צריך להוביל איכשהו לארה״ב ולכן נבנה צינור הנפט הטרנס אלסקי שמוביל נפט במשך כ-800 מייל משדה הנפט בפרודהו ביי ועד לעיר ואלדז בחוף הדרומי של אלסקה (הנמל הצפוני ביותר שלא קופא בחורף). כביש דלטון שימש לבניית הצינור וכיום לאספקת ציוד ומשאבים לשדה הנפט העצום. עצרתי בצד בתחילת הדרך להצטלם עם השלט ולקחת נשימה עמוקה. חקרתי את הדרך הרבה בימים האחרונים ולכן הייתי מצויד בידע רב ומפות אודות הנקודות בדרך, ואודות הציוד הדרוש. מהר מאוד הפכתי למדריך המקומי, תיירים שהגיעו לשם ולא התכוננו כראוי קיבלו הסבר וצילמו את המפות שלי. החלפתי מספרי טלפון עם תייר אחר שמתכנן לנסוע את הדרך ביומיים, כמוני. לא שזה ממש יעזור- אין קליטה בכלל. נתקלתי שם במשאיות שמתארגנות לפני היציאה לדרך ובג׳יפאים שמוציאים אוויר מגלגלי הרכב שלהם. יותר מוכן מזה אני כבר לא אהיה. נכנסתי לאוטו ויצאתי לדרך. יש לי 56 מייל עד לנקודה הראשונה בדרך, חציית נהר היוקון העצום. עד לנהר היוקון הדרך יחסית טובה, דרך עפר יחסית מטופלת ונוחה אך עדיין מפעם לפעם יש אבן או בור שמחייבים האטה ומעבר עדין. לא שזה מעניין יותר מידי את נהגי המשאיות שפשוט נוסעים כאילו זה כביש לכל דבר. עם כל משאית כזו עולה ענן אבק ואבנים שעפות לכל עבר. לפחות האנשים האחרים שנוסעים במכוניות מאוד אכפתיים ועושים שלום לכל מכונית אחרת שהם רואים. צריך להיות אדם מיוחד כדי לנסוע את הדרך הזאת סתם. עד לנהר היוקון הדרך עוברת בתוך יער ירוק וסבוך. עליות וירידות גדולים, מעברי הרים ונקודות נוף. לאחר כשעה וחצי מגיעים לנהר היוקון. את נהר היוקון פגשתי כבר בוויטהורס כשהוא קטן יחסית, ובשלב הזה הנהר כבר עצום לאחר שסיפח אליו נהרות רבים אחרים מקנדה ואלסקה. חציית הנהר היא על גשר עץ ענק של 700 מטר ומיד אחריו ישנו פונדק דרכים נחמד בו אפשר וצריך למלא דלק. תדלקתי והלכתי להתרשם מהנהר. לא סתם קוראים לו ״מייטי יוקון ריבר״. מכאן הלכתי למרכז המבקרים הקטן אודות הדרך. שאלתי המון שאלות והובטח לי שהמשך הדרך עד קולדפוט (המקום בו תכננתי לישון בלילה, במייל ה-175 של הדרך) חלקה וטובה. לא כך היה הדבר. חלק גדול מהדרך סלול, דבר שנראה לך טוב בהתחלה, אך מהר מאוד אתה מגלה שהבורות בדרכים הסלולות הרבה יותר גרועים ופשוט מתפלל שוב לדרכי העפר. ישנם חלקים טובים בדרך בהם אפשר לנסוע 50 ואפילו 60 מייל לשעה ולעומת זאת חלקים עם בורות שלאחר כל אחד מהם אתה עוצר בצד לבדוק שהכל בסדר עם הרכב. אחרי נהר היוקון ההרים הגבוהים נעלמים ואותם מחליפים גבעות קטנות. כתוצאה מכך ישנן המון עליות וירידות תלולות. נהגי המשאיות קוראים לחלק הזה בכביש ״רכבת ההרים״. לאחר כשעה וחצי הגעתי לעצירה נוספת בדרך והיא החוג הארקטי. מהנקודה הזאת וצפונה השמש לא שוקעת לפחות ליום אחד בקיץ, כאשר ככל שמצפינים השמש תהיה בשמיים ברצף ליותר זמן. בקוטב הצפוני היא כבר תהיה בשמיים חצי שנה ולאחר מכן תשקע ותיעלם למשך חצי שנה. הצטלמתי ליד השלט והכנתי ארוחת צהריים בספסלי פיקניק שהיו שם. סנאי חצוף כמעט לקח לי מהאוכל. המשכתי לנסוע צפונה, נשארו לי עוד 60 מייל עד לקולדפוט. זה אולי לא נשמע הרבה אך הדרך מלאה בורות ומהירות הנסיעה האמיתית לא עולה על 30 מייל לשעה. סלול למחצה עם המון בורות. ממרחק אפשר לראות את ההרים העצומים של רכס ברוקס מתקרבים אליך יותר ויותר. רכס הרים זה חוצה את צפון אלסקה ממזרח למערב ובעצם הוא החלק הצפוני ביותר של הרי הרוקיס. את ההרים הללו אצטרך בסופו של דבר לחצות במעבר ההרים הגבוה ביותר באלסקה. אבל זאת כבר דאגה של מחר. קודם צריך להגיע לקולדפוט. הגבעות שבדרך התחילו להשתנות ולהפוך להרים. העצים הירוקים הענקיים גם השתנו לאט לאט והפכו לקטנים יותר. עמקי יו קרחוניים מקיפים מכל עבר. לאחר כשעתיים נוספות הגעתי סופסוף. תחילה הלכתי למרכז המבקרים שנמצא שם. שמורת הטבע ״גייטס אוף דה ארקטיק״ נמצאת ממש לצד הכביש. השמורה הזאת היא אחת השמורות העצומות באלסקה והיא טבע פראי מוחלט. אין בה שבילים או כבישים בכלל, למעט כפר אינדיאני קטן שנמצא במרכזה, אליו יש גישה רק בעזרת מטוס קטן או כלבי מזחלות בחורף. זו השמורה הלאומית החמישית אליה אני מגיע באלסקה (מתוך 8 קיימות), הספק מכובד. ראיתי סרט על השמורה ואיך מתנהלים בה והסתכלתי על התצוגות הארקטיות במרכז המבקרים. לאחר מכן עברתי לקולדפוט שנמצאת ממש בצד השני של הכביש. זוהי בעצם תחנת עצירה לנהגי משאיות בה הם יכולים להעביר את הלילה ולאכול. במקום יש דיינר מצוין, תחנת דלק, בר וזהו פחות או יותר. כל העובדים במקום גרים ביישוב ווייסמן שנמצא כעשרה מייל מצפון. אכלתי המבורגר מעולה במסעדה והלכתי לישון ליד אגם קטן וצבעוני. כאן כבר השמש לא תשקע עד לעוד שבוע. בבוקר תדלקתי, בדקתי לחץ אויר ושמן שהיו בסדר ויצאתי לחצי השני של הדרך. הפעם יש לי עוד 250 מייל עד ליישוב דדהורס שנמצא בלב שדה הנפט על הים הארקטי. הלכתי לבקר תחילה ביישוב וויסמן, היישוב היחיד לאורך הדרך. בעבר הוא היה עיירת כורי זהב גדולה עם מאות אנשים וכיום חיים שם רק כ-15 אנשים באופן קבוע כל השנה. בקיץ המקום גדל מאוד ומגיע לכ-60 אנשים. אווירה מדהימה וחלוצית שוררת ביישוב. הם דואגים לעצמם בכל נושא ומנותקים כמעט לחלוטין מכל תשתית מדינתית. נסעתי עם הרכב בדרך עפר מהיישוב למכרות הזהב הישנים עד שהגעתי למכרה פעיל אליו אם הייתי נכנס הייתי רואה את השוטגן של הכורים מגרש אותי החוצה במקרה הטוב ויורה בי במקרה הרע. אפשר להבין אותם, אנחנו באמצע שומקום בארה״ב עם ציוד מאוד יקר וזהב. חזרתי לכביש דלטון. חמישים המיילים הבאים היו היפים והמדהימים בכל הדרך. הכביש היה סלול ומצוין והתפתל בין ההרים של רכס ברוקס. מקום מדהים. זהו מקום כל כך מבודד וצפוני שככל הנראה על רוב ההרים הללו לא דרך אף אדם מעולם בכל ההיסטוריה האנושית. המחשבה הזאת פשוט לא נתפסת. בשלב מסוים הדרך חזרה להיות דרך עפר גרועה ומהירות הנסיעה פחתה. קצת לפני מעבר ההרים רואים את העצים האחרונים, צפונה מכאן הם כבר לא גדלים. צינור הנפט ממשיך ללוות אותי לכל הדרך כאשר ברובו הוא נמצא מעל האדמה בקלונסאות מיוחדות. מתחת לשכבת האדמה עליה דורכים ישנה שכבה עמוקה מאוד של אדמה שנמצאת במצב ״קפאת עד״ או ״פרמפורסט״ באנגלית. האדמה לא מפשירה לעולם ונמצאת במצב הזה מאז עידן הקרח. כשבנו את הצינור חשבו פשוט לקבור אותו כמו בצינורות אחרים, אבל אז הבינו שתהיה בעיה חמורה. הצינור יפשיר את האדמה סביבו, שתתכווץ ותשקע, דבר שישבור את הצינורות ויגרום לנזילות. לא משהו שחברות הנפט או הארגונים הירוקים ישמחו שיקרה. הפתרון שמצאו באוניברסיטת אלסקה הוא עמודים שהוכנסו עמוק לאדמה שבהם זורם נוזל קירור (מבוסס אמוניה- כמו זה שיש במקרר). על חלקו העליון של העמוד ישנו רדיאטור שחושף את הנוזל לקור. כך, בחורף כאשר ממש קר (קר ברמת המינוס 30 ומטה), הנוזל שלמעלה מתקרר, יורד למטה ומקפיא את האדמה. ההקפאה כל כך חזקה עד שהיא מחזיקה בכל ימי הקיץ. פתרון גאוני. המשכתי בדרך ובמהרה הגעתי לאטיגון פס, מעבר ההרים הידוע לשמצה. טיפסתי אותו בלי בעיות מיוחדות ועצרתי בפסגה. כמעט 1500 מטר גובה. אין כאן יתושים כי הרוח חזקה מידי. לא כדי להישאר שם יותר מידי זמן, זה מקום שיכול לרדת בו שלג גם בקיץ. ירדתי בצידו השני של המעבר. ההרים התכווצו יותר ויותר ככל שהתקדמתי והפכו לגבעות. נחשפתי לראשונה לטונדרות הארקטיות. מישורים פשוט בלתי נתפסים של שיחים מאוד נמוכים שנראים כמו דשא בצבעי ירוק בהיר עם כתמי צהוב. למרות שהמקום כל כך צפוני וקר, חיים במישורים הללו כמויות בעלי חיים עצומות: ציפורים, שועלים, זאבים, דובי גריזלי וכמובן דובי קוטב. ישנו גם סוג מיוחד של באפולו שנקרא מאסקאוקס, אותו לצערי לא הצלחתי לראות. פרחים ארקטיים ורודים ממשיכים להופיע בכל פינה. בצד השני הצפוני של רכס ברוקס כבר הטמפרטורה נמוכה בהרבה בשל הקרבה לאוקיאנוס הארקטי (5 מעלות ואני ביום חם מאוד באמצע יולי). באמת הרגשה של סוף העולם, לאט לאט הכל מתחיל להיעלם – אין יותר הרים או גבעות, אין יותר עצים, אין יותר שיחים. רק דשא ביצתי אינסופי לכל מקום שמסתכלים. נסעתי עוד כ-150 מיילים (240 ק״מ!!) במישורים הענקיים על דרך עפר במצב טוב עד לדדהורס בסופו של דבר. במהלך כל הנסיעה במישורים הארקטיים אי אפשר לצאת מהרכב. בגלל שהאדמה קפואה, הגשם שיורד שם לא יכול לחלחל, וגם לא ממש להתאדות בשל היעדר שמש רוב הזמן. התוצאה היא ביצות אדירות שמהוות מקום נפלא ליתושים. יציאה מהרכב דינה עשרות עקיצות. רק מבעד לחלון כשהרכב עוצר ניתן לראות מאות יתושים שמנסים את מזלם בלמצוא דרך להיכנס לרכב. לא סתם כמעט לא גרים מצפון לחוג הארקטי. הצלחתי לעמוד במשימה ולהגיע עם ההונדה לדדהורס, לא יאומן. גם אחרי כל הבורות והאבנים, לא היה לי עדיין פנצ׳ר! דדהורס היא ממש לא מה שציפיתי. זו עיר נפט ענקית בה גרים כ-5000 עובדים. היא ממש לא נראית כמו עיר, אלא יותר כמו אזור תעשייה מלא מפעלים. הגודל שלה פשוט לא סביר. יש בה פשוט הכל, לא יאומן שאנחנו הרבה מעבר לחוג הארקטי (קו רוחב 70!). השמש לא תשקע כאן עד ל-22 ביולי, בעוד שלושה שבועות. החיים של העובדים כאן נהדרים והמון אנשים נמצאים 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