הדרך לפרו

במלון בוילקבמבה שהו גם זוג צרפתים נחמדים, פייר ולאורה. גם הם תכננו להמשיך מכאן לצ׳צ׳פויאס שבפרו כמוני. הם היו במלון כבר יומיים והספיקו לברר. יש רק אוטובוס אחד ביום שיוצא מוילקבמבה ועובר את הגבול לפרו, אחרת צריך להסתבך עם אוטובוסים מקומיים, דבר שיגזול הרבה זמן. האוטובוס יוצא בשמונה בבוקר. חדשות רעות בשבילי, בעוד ארבעה ימים כבר קבעתי עם עמית, חבר מהבית, להיפגש ביורימגואס ולצאת לשייט לאיקיטוס על האמזונס. לאור המצב החלטתי לוותר על חצי היום שתכננתי בוילקבמבה ולצאת כבר באוטובוס של שמונה בבוקר לחאאן שבפרו, שבה אצטרך להחליף אוטובוס ולנסוע לצ׳צ׳פויאס.
התעוררתי השקם וארגנתי את הציוד שלי. כשיצאתי מהחדר חיכתה לי הפתעה מצוינת. הנוף המדהים מהמלון המשקיף על הכפר וילקבמבה וההרים שמסביבה. וילקבמבה ידועה באקוודור ובעולם כמקום של מאריכי חיים. באופן מאוד לא ברור הרבה מתושבי המקום הגיעו לגיל מאה ואף יותר. אולי זה האוויר הנקי, האדמה הפוריה, אורך החיים של התושבים, לא ידוע. הרבה מחקרים בוצעו במקום שלא הצליחו להגיע למסקנה ברורה. יצאתי מהמלון עם פייר ולאורה והלכנו ברגל לתחנת האוטובוסים. אבל אבוי, החל מאותו לילה התחילה שביתה של נהגי האוטובוסים בכל רחבי אקוודור בשל העלאת מחירי הדלק. היינו די חסרי אונים, ישבנו בתחנה וחיכינו, 6 תיירים בסך הכל. לאחר כחצי שעה מורטת עצבים שבה כמעט החלטנו לנסוע לגבול באופן פרטי (שהיה עולה הון) הגיח האוטובוס שלנו והגיע לתחנה. איזה מזל! שאר היום היה נסיעה אחת ארוכה, ולאחר כחמש שעות הגענו לגבול פרו. פקיד הגבול המבולבל היה משוכנע שישראלים צריכים ויזה לאקוודור וכמעט לא נתן לי לצאת מהמדינה. בסוף הכל הסתדר, החתמתי את הדרכון בצד הפרואני ועליתי בחזרה לאוטובוס שחיכה לכולנו. פגשנו גם שני קנדים שנסעו על אופנועים את כל הדרך מקנדה, מטורף! זהו, הגעתי לפרו! מדינה חדשה שמיד התגלתה המסודרת יותר מאקוודור. הכבישים סלולים, מסומנים ומשולטים. המשכנו לנסוע עוד כחמש שעות בין ההרים הגבוהים והטרסות החקלאיות הרבות. ראינו גם מטעי אורז. לבסוף בשעה שמונה בערב הגענו לחאאן. עכשיו צריך להחליף אוטובוס, אבל כמובן שהטרמינל שממנו יוצא האוטובוס נמצא בצד השני של העיר. לא היה ברשותי אף סול (המטבע הפרואני) ולכן נהג האוטובוס הסכים לעשות לי טובה ולהחליף את מעט הדולרים שנשארו לי לסול בשער מגוחך. לא הייתה לי ברירה. נסענו במונית לטרמינל ושם גילינו שהאוטובוס האחרון לצ׳צ׳פויאס כבר יצא ונאלץ לחכות לבוקר. היינו שישה, שני זוגות צרפתים, תיירת גרמניה בשם אווה ואני. התמקמנו כולנו במלון בערך היחיד שבעיר, שליד הטרמינל. נשארו רק שלושה חדרים ובכולם מיטות זוגיות, כך שנאלצתי לחלוק חדר ומיטה עם אווה שרק הכרתי באוטובוס. אקסטרים דורמיטורי. יצאנו לאכול כולנו ביחד ובמסעדה פגשנו עוד תייר ספרדי שהיה איתנו באוטובוס. האוטובוס המגובש שהיה אי פעם. הצלחתי גם להוציא כסף וכבר לא הייתי במצוקת מזומנים.
החלטתי לקחת את האוטובוס המוקדם ביותר שיוצא בארבע בבוקר ולהספיק להגיע באותו יום אל קואלפ שליד צ׳צ׳פויאס. אחת מערי האינקה היפות ביותר, שרק אולי מאצ׳ו פיצ׳ו יפה ממנה. אין מה לעשות, יש לי רק יומיים בצ׳צ׳פויאס וצריך לנצל כל שנייה. יצאתי ברבע לארבע בבוקר מהחדר בלי להעיר את אווה ועליתי לאוטובוס שהפעם התברר במיניבוס קטן. נסיעה של ארבע שעות מפותלת להפליא שאת רובה חרפתי בהצלחה יתרה. בשעה שמונה כבר הגעתי לצ׳צ׳פויאס. עיר מוזרה, כבר ללא השפעה קולוניאליסטית כלל. בירת מחוז האמזונס של פרו, למרות שאינה קרובה כלל לאמזונס ואינה נמצאת ביערות הגשם. לקחתי מונית למלון שהזמנתי מראש ובמזל כבר הייתי יכול לעשות צ׳ק אין. התמקמתי ועכשיו רשמית אני בפרו!!

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