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מים חמים מאוד, ריח של גופרית ומסביב יער ירוק ויפהפה. נכנסתי למים ושהיתי בהם כשעה וחצי עם הפוגות התקררות. איזה כיף ואיזה משחרר זה. פשוט תענוג לשבת במים הרותחים כשמסביבך הנוף המרגיע של יערות סבוכים ומים זורמים. יצאתי מהבריכה ומיהרתי להחליף בגדים ולהכין ארוחת ערב לפני סגירת השמורה. בזמן שהתחלתי להדליק את הבנזיניה הפקח קונור זיהה אותי ומיהר לכעוס עליי ולומר לי שזה לא בסדר. הוא לא שם לב שזו בנזיניה וחשב שהדלקתי מדורה מענפים ועלים. בכל אופן כבר קיפלתי את הציוד ויצאתי מחוץ לשמורה לחניון עפר שבו היו קראוונים רבים. השלמתי את הארוחה שם. בזמן הבישול הגיע אליי קנדי (גם בשם קונור) והזמין אותי לבוא להצטרף אליהם למדורה. כמובן שהסכמתי. הם היו שני קנדים צעירים, ניג׳ל וקונור מהעיר פורט סנט ג׳ונס. שניהם עובדים כמכונאים ועשו את הדרך עם ואן שהם הסבו מאוטומטי לידני בכדי לבדוק אותו ועל הדרך לצאת לטיול. לאחר כמה דקות הצטרף אלינו קונור הפקח. השלמנו והתנצלנו על התקרית מקודם ונהיינו חברים. קונור הוא אירי ובא לקנדה לעבוד לשנתיים. בחורף הוא מדריך סקי ובקיץ פקח. ישבנו, דיברנו ושתינו עד מאוחר מאוד בלילה. היה כיף גדול. קונור הפקח אפילו לקח אותנו לטיול לילי להראות לנו את המקום שבו הם נאלצו לירות בדוב לפני כמה ימים. בהזדמנות זו טעמתי את הדבר המגעיל ביותר בחיי, מיץ עגבניות עם אלכוהול, פשוט זוועה ולא יאומן שמישהו קונה את זה. לבסוף התפצלנו, כיבינו את המדורה וכל אחד חזר למקום הלינה שלו. ידעתי שזה יעלה לי ביציאה מאוחרת למחרת אך לא היה אכפת לי. בשביל חוויות כאלו באתי לטייל. בדיעבד מתברר שבאותו לילה התרחש במרחק קילומטרים בודדים מאיתנו רצח מזעזע של זוג שטייל באזור. כשגיליתי את הדבר כמה ימים מאוחר יותר הייתי בשוק. איך יכול להיות שדבר כזה קורה במקום כל כך יפה ורגוע.
את הבוקר שלמחרת באמת התחלתי מאוחר, עד שהתארגנתי ויצאתי השעה הייתה אחת בצהריים. קונור, ניג׳ל ואני יצאנו בערך באותו זמן. בתוכנית היה לסיים היום את האלסקה היווי, מרחק של כ-650 ק״מ. בשל שעת היציאה המאוחרת החלטתי לקצר קצת ולנסוע עד לעיר פורט סנט ג׳ונס שקרובה יותר ב-100 ק״מ. מיד עם תחילת הנסיעה אותן עבודות בכביש שהזהירו אותי מפניהן התחילו. אוטומטית מהירות הנסיעה המותרת ירדה ל-80 קמ״ש ולחלקים רבים אף פחות מכך. לא באמת היה אכפת לי, הדרך באותם חלקים הייתה מדהימה. בעצם זה טוב שהייתי חייב לנסוע לאט. ככה הייתי יכול להסתכל החוצה בלי להתנגש בשום דבר. עברתי בחלק של הרי הרוקיס שנמצא בצפון בריטיש קולומביה. על הדרך שתי שמורות טבע, מונצ׳ו לייק וסטון מוונטיינס. תחילה עוברים ליד מונצ׳ו לייק, אגם קרחוני ענק בצבעי ירוק וכחול מהפנט ולאחר מכן מגיעים להרי האבן הענקיים. פשוט כיף לנסוע בדרכים האלו, לא צריך כלום. התחושה שאתה כל כך קטן למול ההרים פשוט ממכרת. לאחר הרבה שעות נסיעה הגעתי לעיירה פורט נלסון בה אכלתי צהריים מאוחרים. משם נשארו לי עוד כשעתיים נסיעה דרומה. בדרך עצרתי לדניאל, טרמפיסטית שנתקעה באמצע הדרך אחרי שהאוטו שלה התקלקל והייתה צריכה להגיע ליישוב הבא כי כמובן שאין קליטה לאורך הדרך. היא מאוד התפעלה מהטיול שלי ואני שאלתי שאלות על החיים במקום כל כך שומם וצפוני. הגעתי לפורט סנט ג׳ונס. עיר גדולה סופסוף. ממש הרגשה של חזרה לציוויליזציה. החלטתי ללכת לישון הלילה בחניון של וולמרט, לאחר ההצלחה הגדולה של החניה בוויטהורס. התמקמתי והפכתי את הרכב למצב לילה ולאחר מכן יצאתי לארוחת ערב. התיישבתי בפאב נחמד שמתמחה בפיצות ונהניתי מפיצה משוכללת עם המון ירקות ובירה. בפאב דיברתי עם קנדי ממש בשם בן שאפילו נתן לי כמזכרת אסימון שבו הוא זכה בקזינו. חזרתי לישון באוטו מבסוט ושבע.זהו, יום הנסיעה הגדול האחרון. היום אסע עוד 7 שעות עד לבירת אלברטה אדמונטון, העיר הגדולה ביותר מאז סיאטל. מילאתי דלק ועצרתי מעט בהמשך הדרך בעיירה טיילור לאכול ארוחת בוקר. ניצלתי את ההזדמנות שהייתה לי קליטה ובכתבתי פוסט מכירה ראשון על הרכב. עצוב, סימן שהטיול מתקרב לסיומו. במרכז המבקרים של טיילור מאוד התרשמו והתלהבו מהטיול שלי. הפעם הנסיעה עברה במישורים העצומים של קנדה. מחציית הגבול לאלברטה פשוט שדות לא נגמרים לכל האופק. הכבישים ישרים לחלוטין ומצטלבים כל כמה ק״מ עם כבישים שמאונכים להם. גבעות קטנות פה ושם שמאפשרות לך לראות את המרחבים המטורפים הללו. שדות ירוקים וצהובים מטורפים. פרחים צבעוניים מבצבצים בכל מקום שבו אין שדות. לאחר עצירת צהריים מאוחרת הגעתי בשעות הערב לאדמונטון. מיהרתי וישר הלכתי לאחת האטרקציות המרכזיות בעיר, הקניון. באדמונטון נמצא הקניון הגדול ביותר בצפון אמריקה והשני בגודלו בעולם. בלתי נתפס המקום הזה. יש בתוך הקניון לונה פארק, פארק מים, זירת אחלקרח, קולנוע, רחובות וכמויות מטורפות של חנויות בכל הסוגים. הסתובבתי לי במשך כשעה וחצי בין חנויות ואטרקציות הקניון וזה היה רק קצה הקרחון. יצאתי מהקניון ונסעתי למרכז העיר. ממש לא ציפיתי לראות את גורדי השחקים המטורפים. עיר מאוד מרשימה וגדולה הנמצאת לצידו של נהר ססקצ׳ואן העצום. לא סתם זו בירת אלברטה. חיים בעיר מעל מיליון אנשים. התמקמתי עם הרכב בחניון של פארק אליזבת׳ שממש נמצא דקות הליכה בודדות מהדאונטאון, בצידו השני של הנהר. יצאתי, עברתי את הגשר המטורף לצד השני של העיר וחגגתי בפאב אירי מגניב את סיום הנסיעות הארוכות. מחר סיבוב באדמונטון וחזרה לטבע לשמורות ג׳ספר ובאנף היפהפיות.
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