ברזיליה

דווקא בנסיעת האוטובוס הזאת, הארוכה בחיי, המזל לא העיר לי פנים. האוטובוס עצמו היה ישן, מלוכלך ומתפרק יחסית. ישבתי בכיסא במעבר, כאשר לידי ישבה ברזילאית גדולה ושמנה שהצליחה למלא את כל מקומה ואף לגלוש אל תוך המושב שלי. ווהו. מבנה האוטובוס היה מוזר ושונה לחלוטין מכל האוטובוסים שראיתי עד כה ביבשת. כל קומתו התחתונה של האוטובוס הוקדשה למטען וחלקה הקדמי הפך לתא בשביל הנהגים. על האוטובוס היו לא פחות מארבעה נהגים שהתחלפו ביניהם כל כמה שעות. בזמן שאחד נוהג כל האחרים נחים וישנים. לנוסעים הוקדשה הקומה העליונה, שבה הכיסאות היו סבירים להפליא. לא מיטות או כורסאות כמו באוטובוסים המפוארים. כיסאות פשוטים שבקושי מסוגלים להישכב אחורנית. אחת לכמה שעות האוטובוס עצר ואיפשר לנוסעים לרדת ולקנות אוכל. בדרך כלל היה מדובר על מסעדות בופה קטנות מחוץ לערים ועל אוכל ברזילאי אמיתי. אף תייר לא מספיק משוגע בכדי לעשות את הדרך הזאת. 32 שעות באוטובוס זה לא לכל אחד. אני ניצלתי את הזמן בעיקר לכתיבת הפוסטים החסרים של הבלוג. יום מנוחה כפוי. באופן מפתיע הנסיעה לא הייתה כל כך נוראה. עברנו בנופים מעניינים שמאוד הזכירו את הסוואנה באפריקה. פלאטו שטוח, מלא עשבייה ירוקה וצהובה ועצים גדולים גדלים פה ושם. ככל שהתקרבנו לברזיליה הנוף נהפך לירוק והררי יותר, והפך לסבך, יערות ירוקים ובעיקר שדות חקלאיים אינסופיים ועד קצה האופק. ממש כמו מרכז ארצות הברית. הגעתי לטרמינל בברזיליה מאוחר בלילה והזמנתי אובר אל ההוסטל. ברזיליה היא עיר שתוכננה מאפס ובנויה בצורה של מטוס או ציפור. כנפי הציפור הם הרחובות הראשיים שבהם מרוכזים מרבית הבניינים בעיר. לעומת זאת כל מרכז הציפור הוא שדרה ארוכה המלאה בבינייני הממשלה, בפרלמנט ובמלונות יוקרה. העיר תוכננה כולה ע”י אדריכל יהודי בשם אוסקר ניימיאר שכיום חי בריו, ופרושה על שטח ענק ובלתי נתפש. רק הנסיעה מטרמינל האוטובוסים אל ההוסטל שלי, שהיה בקרבת מקום ארכה כעשרים דקות. ההוסטל היה מפונפן למדי, בתוך בניין, מאוד קרוב למרכז העיר. להפתעתי, מרבית האורחים שם היו אנשי עסקים שהגיעו לכמה ימים לברזיליה, ולא תרמילאים כמו שפגשתי עד עכשיו בהוסטלים בטיול. הספקתי עוד להתקלח אחרי הנסיעה הבלתי נגמרת לכאן, למרות שכבר היה מאוחר מאוד בלילה.

למחרץ החלטתי לצאת לעיר ולטייל באתרים המרכזיים והיפים שלה. ליבה של ברזיל. אכלתי ארוחת בוקר יקרה בבית הקפה שמתחת להוסטל ויצאתי לדרך. כבר לאחר כמה מאות מטרים של הליכה לכיוון השדרה הראשית גיליתי שני פגמים בתוכנית. השמש ומזג האוויר חם בהרבה ממה שציפיתי, וכמו כן המרחקים בין המקומות בלתי אפשריים. עצרתי לנוח ולהתקרר קצת בקניון גדול בצד הדרך עם גלידה במקדונלדס והמשכתי ללכת. מאוד התרשמתי מהעיר. זו הרגשה מאוד מוזרה ללכת בעיר מתוכננת, משהו שלא חוויתי בחיי. הסימטריה והסדר מעוררות בך משהו בפנים שמרגיש שונה. אני לא יודע להסביר את זה. השדרות רחבות, רמזורים והרגשה מאוד טובה ברחוב. הדבר היחיד שאותו ממש לא תכננו כהלכה הוא מעברי החצייה שנדירים למדי אם קיימים בכלל. דבר שמאלץ את הולכי הרגל לחצות את הכביש בנקודות אקראיות, מחזה מאוד שכיח בעיר. הלכתי לאורך השדרה המרכזית, שלצידי בנייני ענק, רבי קומות וביניינים מודרניים לחלוטין. העיר מרגישה כבטוחה ביותר ביי פאר שהייתי בה בדרום אמריקה, נדמה כאילו כל האנשים בעיר הזו הם אנשי עסקים או עובדי ממשלה. כולם הולכים עם חליפות ועניבות למרות שחום איימים בחוץ. הגעתי למוזיאון אומנות מודרנית, שתוכנן גם הוא כמובן ע”י ניימיאר. מוזיאון הנמצא בתוך כיפה ענקית שלצידה עולה גרם מדרגות מסולסל. מבנה מיוחד עם בריכות מים לצידו. עשיתי בפנים סיבוב קצר, הבנתי שהמקום מוזר מידי לטעמי והמשכתי ללכת. הגעתי אל הקתדרלה של ברזיליה. מבנה שעוצב גם הוא ע”י ניימיאר. מבחוץ המבנה לא נראה מרשים במיוחד, אך כן מאוד יוצא דופן. המבנה מורכב מעמודי בטון גדולים המתחברים יחד ויוצרים מעין אוהל העולה השמיימה. בין העמודים זכוכית כחולה. מקום הדומה לפרח או כתר. נכנסתי פנימה דרך מנהרה שחורה היורדת אל תוך האדמה. בדיוק התקיימה שם הלוויה. בחיי לא ראיתי מקום כזה. הנשימה נעתקת. הקתדרלה היפה ביותר שראיתי בחיי. מבפנים הזכוכית נראית ענקית ומכסה את כל חלל התקרה. זכוכית צבעונית הנראית כמו יצירת אומנות אמיתית וענקית. עמדתי המום. בחיי לא ראיתי דבר כזה. במרכז החלל תלויים מהתקרה פסלי מלאכים. יצאתי מהמקום נפעם והמשכתי ללכת במורד השדרה. הגעתי לטרמינל האוטובוסים המרכזי, המהווה את ליבה של העיר. במקום נבנה גם קניון עצום. החלטתי להשקיע ולקנות אוזניות כמו שצריך. במשך שבועות הסתובבתי בלעדיהן, נמאס לי. עצרתי באחד הדוכנים וקניתי את האוזניות שכמובן לא עבדו. לא עזבתי את העמדה עד שהחליפו את הסט וקיבלתי סט חדש שעבד פיקס. איזה כיף! המשכתי ללכת במורד השדרה הענקית ונכנסתי לאזור המשרדים הממשלתיים של ברזיליה. לכל משרד ישנו בניין ענקי בצד השדרה, המסומן בגדול באות ובשם המשרד. סדר מופתי. בקצה השדרה הפרלמנט הברזילאי, שסביבו דגליהם של כל המדינות המרכיבות את ברזיל. בצד השדרה ארמון מפואר המוקף בבריכה שחורה ויפהפיה שבפתחו חייל במדים יצוגיים. המקום שבו מארחים הברזילאים את מנהיגי העולם המגיעים לביקורים. הפרלמנט עצמו נמצא במרכז השדרה, ואליו נדרש להגיע ע”י ירידה למתחם תת קרקעי מסודר עם אגמים ומזרקות. מבנה מאוד מרשים. לא היה ניתן להיכנס ולבקר במקום. וירוס הקורונה שמתפשט לאיטו בעולם, כבר התחיל להלחיץ את הברזילאים שהפסיקו את הביקורים בפרלמנט. המשכתי ללכת במורד השדרה ואל כיכר המוזיאונים המרכזית של העיר. רחבת בטון ענקית שבה נמצאים שלושה מוזיאונים שכמובן מעוצבים בצורות מיוחדות. הלכתי וביקרתי בשלושתם. מוזיאון המציג את בניית העיר, מוזיאון המציג את חזון הבירה ומוזיאון אודות נשיא ברזיל שהקים את העיר. אחרי הביקור במוזיאונים, החלטתי לחזור בחזרה למרכז. עייפתי מההליכה הארוכה ברגל. עליתי על אוטובוס ונסעתי בחזרה אל הטרמינל שבמרכז העיר, שממנו עליתי אל הקניון הגדול לארוחת צהריים. הספקתי גם לראות את בניין התיאטרון הלאומי של ברזיל המעוצב כמו פירמידה. משם המשכתי ברגל אל האתר האחרון להיום, הכנסייה המפורסמת של ברזיליה. בדומה לקתדרלה גם הכנסייה עוצבה ע”י ניימיאר ונראית מיוחדת במינה. באותו רעיון כמו הקתדרלה, גם לכנסייה היו קירות זכוכית עצומים, והבניין עצמו נראה כשילוב בין כנסייה עתיקה לבניין הייטקי מודרני. בפנים לעומת זאת, שוב מכה בך היופי הבלתי יתואר של המקום. אור כחול בוהק ממלא את החדר, והזכוכית הכחולה פשוט מקיפה אותך מכל עבר. יפהפה. בכנסייה מושמעים בשקט מזמורים נוצריים שאף משפרים את האווירה, פשוט בלתי רגיל. גם מכאן יצאתי נפעם. בדרך החוצה תפס אותי גשם טרופי. גשם אמיתי, לא כמו כזה שיש בארץ. טיפות עצומות שמרטיבות אותך בתוך שנייה. הסתתרתי מתחת לתחנת אוטובוס וכשהגיע עליתי עליו בחזרה להוסטל שלי. האוטובוס כמובן שלא עצר בתחנה המתאימה ואילץ אותי ללכת מרחק גדול. מזל שהגשם כבר הפסיק. בהוסטל התיישבתי בסלון התת קרקעי ותכננתי את המשך מסלולי. החלטתי שאשכור רכב ואסע לטייל בשמורות הטבע המדהימות שממוקמות מחוץ לברזיליה. לא היה לי מושג כיצד להגיע לשם ומה לעשות שם. בקושי הצלחתי למצוא מידע. אילתרתי מכמה אתרים וקיוויתי לטוב. הצלחתי לסגור רכב זול יחסית למחרת דרך הטלפון, מסוכנות שבמקרה האדם איתו דיברתי גר מספר שנים בארה”ב והיה בעל אנגלית טובה. דיברתי ארוכות עם אבי שעזר לי לראות את המשחק של ליברפול נגד אתלטיקו מדריד ע”י כך ששידר לי את המשחק בשיחת וידאו. לא כיף לראות כך אך לא נותרה לי ברירה, ובדיעבד מזל שעשינו כך מאחר שהמשחק היה מטורף לחלוטין. כמו כן אבא שלח לי מספר של אדם בשם גונן אשר גר בקרבת ברזיליה, שאימו גרה בכפר. שלחתי לו הודעה ובאמת קבענו להיפגש למחרת, בדרך אל שמורות הטבע שלי.

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