איטה קרה

דרך ארוכה ולא פשוטה לאיטה קרה. נאלצתי לרדת מהאוטובוס בעיר פיירה דה סנטנה שבפאתי סלבדור לפנות בוקר ולהחליף אוטובוס. עליתי שם על אוטובוס ישן ומתפרק לעוד כשמונה שעות נסיעה אל איטה קרה. האוטובוס נסע לאט והיה נדמה שעוצר בכל עיירה, בקתה או צריף בדרך. לבסוף הגעתי בשעות הצהריים לאיטה קרה. חום אימים גם שם. חבריי כבר היו יומיים באיטה קרה והשכירו במקום דירה גדולה ומפוארת. החלטתי לקחת מונית אל הדירה. בכל זאת, חם ומקום חדש ולא מוכר. נהג המונית ניצל את העובדה שאני תייר ולקח ממני מחיר מופקע. מעצבן מאוד. ממבט ראשון העיירה נראית עלובה מעט. בתים קטנים וישנים וסירות דייג רבות העוגנות קרוב לחוף. הגעתי לשער מתחם הדירות שהיה נעול וצלצלתי בפעמון. בדירה היו שקד וקמילה שנחלצו לעזרתי לשווא, מבלי שגם להם היה מפתח. את קמילה, הבריטית- לבנונית פגשתי לראשונה באל צ׳אלטן ומאז היא הספיקה לטייל עם שקד לשיניים של נווארינו ואף הייתה עימנו בקרנבל בסלבדור. לבסוף הצלחתי לפרוץ את מנעול השער ולהיכנס לדירה. הופתעתי מאוד לטובה. דירה ענקית, מפוארת והכי חשוב, בעלת מזגן. כל שאר השותפים הלכו כבר לפני כמה שעות אל ״החוף הנעלם״. החלטנו לצאת ולהצטרף אליהם. הלכנו תחילה מעט על החוף, אכלנו אסאי קר ונרגענו. הדרך אל החוף הנעלם ממש לא פשוטה, מדובר על הליכה של כ-45 דקות בתוך היער ובדרכי עפר. זהו חוף הנמצא מחוץ לאיטה קרה שאמור להיות מדהים ביופיו. צילמתי את הוראות ההגעה אל החוף בטלפון ויצאנו בניווט אליו. הלכנו למרכז העיירה ובדרך אל חופי העיירה, משם המשכנו בשביל עפר קטן אל תוך הג׳ונגל. על אף שהסתבכנו מעט, תמיד היינו יכולים להסתמך על המוני האנשים שעשו את דרכם הלוך ושוב על השביל לכיוון החוף, כאשר רובם המוחלט היו ישראלים. הדרך הייתה ארוכה ולעיתים היה נדמה שאנחנו בכלל לא בכיוון הנכון, אולם לבסוף הצלחנו. מבעד לעצים ראינו חוף שלקוח מהאגדות. פיסת גן עדן. רצועת חוף חולי של כקילומטר הנמצאת בתוך מפרץ. מאחוריה עצי קוקוס ענקיים. המוני מתרחצים פקדו את החוף, שחו במים והשתזפו על החול. פגשתי שוב את כרמל, הדר, ארתור ועידו שנחו להם בצל על הלונגים הגדולים. נכנסנו לטבול במים החמימים והגליים. קרבות חול, מלחמות הפלות, עמידות ידיים וכו׳. קברנו את עידו בחול ובסך הכל היה זמן מצוין בחוף. לקראת השקיעה כמעט כל המתרחצים נטשו וחזרו בחזרה לאיטה קרה. נותרנו כמעט האחרונים בחוף לצבעי השקיעה היפים. לבסוף נטשנו גם אנחנו וחזרנו דרך היער בחזרה לעיירה. התקלחנו בדירה, נחנו מעט ובערב יצאנו לאכול המבורגרים בדוכן מקומי וכן לשתות קשאסה וגווארנה. מצאנו מסיבה נחמדה בפאב במרכז העיירה ונשארנו שם עד מאוחר. כמות הישראלים שנמצאים במקום הזה לא הגיונית. תמיד שמעתי על כך שהישראלים כובשים יעדים בחו״ל אך כאן זה כבר היה מגוחך. 90% מהאנשים שמסתובבים ברחוב הם ישראלים. השלטים והתפריטים של המסעדות בעברית והמלצרים מדברים עברית. קצת מבאסת אותי האווירה הזו. במסיבה הדר ואני התחברנו עם שתי צרפתיות. בסך הכל היה ערב מצוין.
למחרת כולם היו צריכים לעזוב. לארתור, כרמל, עידו ושקד הייתה טיסה לריו בערב, והדר החליט להמשיך ליעד נוסף בחוף הברזילאי. אני החלטתי להישאר באיטה קרה לבינתיים, הזמנתי חדר בהוסטל נחמד ואליו העברנו את הציודים של כולנו עד לזמן הטיסה. אכלנו צהריים בבופה נחמד במרכז העיירה והמשכנו בדרך אל החופים. הצטרפו אלינו עוד שתי ישראליות שפגשנו אתמול במסיבה. תכננו ללכת שוב לחוף הנעלם אך רגע לפני שנכנסנו ליער שקד, עידו וקמילה החליטו לפרוש וללכת לחוף הסמוך לעיירה. התפצלנו, כרמל, ארתור, אני ושתי הישראליות המשכנו לחוף. הפעם בלי להתבלבל ולהתמהמה יותר מידי. לא היה לכרמל וארתור הרבה זמן ולכן הלכנו די מהר. החוף גם היום היה יפה ושמשי. גלים גבוהים נכנסו אל המפרץ מהאוקיינוס הרחב. דבר שלא באמת הפריע לנו להיכנס למים ולהינות. בשלב מסוים ארתור ואני התחלנו להתמסר בפריזבי והצלחנו להגיע למסירות סופר רחוקות ומדויקות. אולי אפילו של 100 מטרים. חתמנו את הזמן על החוף עם בירה קרה ועוגת חנק שמכרו בחוף. הלכנו במהרה בחזרה ביער ובאמצע הדרך פגשנו את הדר שהיה בדרכו אלינו והצטרף אלינו לדרך חזור. התאחדנו שוב עם שקד, עידו וקמילה בחוף העיירה וחזרנו לחדר שלי בהוסטל להישטף ולהוריד את החול. רגע לפני שהתפצלנו בפעם האחרונה חגגנו באסאי מטורף. הפעם הזמנו 2 קערות ענקיות בצורת סירה שבכל אחת מהן היה אולי 2 קילו של אסאי. גם איה וירדן שבדיוק הגיעו לאיטה קרה הצטרפו אלינו והזדעזעו מגודל הסירות, שכמובן חוסלו לחלוטין. נותרתי לבד באיטה קרה. בערב יצאתי להסתובב וגיליתי שמאחר וכבר לא סוף השבוע, האווירה בלילה רגועה בהרבה. בשעות הערב השפל מאוד מורגש והסירות שמול החוף ממש נחות על החול הלבן. אכלתי ערב בבופה הטעים וחזרתי להוסטל.
החלטתי להישאר יום נוסף באיטה קרה, מרוב ההתרוצצות הרגשתי שלא באמת חוויתי אותה כמו שצריך. לבשתי בגד ים ועברתי בין החופים הסמוכים לעיירה. הישראלים ממספרים אותם מאחד עד ארבע, כאשר כמעט כל הישראלים נמצאים בחוף 2 ובחוף 4. עברתי ביניהם מאחד עד ארבע לאורך שפת המים. דבר שדרש ממני גם לטפס על סלעים וללכת במקומות מאתגרים. עצרתי לנוח בחוף 3. הייתי היחיד בחוף חוץ מאוד שתי תיירות. אווירה רגועה וכיפית. לאחר מכן עברתי לחוף ארבע שם נחתי מתחת לעצים בצל. חשבתי לנסות לגלוש שוב אך החלטתי לוותר הפעם. לא התחשק לי להתערבל במים שוב. חזרתי להוסטל ובדרך כמובן שעצרתי באסאי. יום שאנטי. בערב קבעתי להיפגש עם ירדן ואיה להמבורגר. הלכתי להמבורגריה המפונפנת ברחוב הראשי ובדרך לפתע פגשתי שוב את איינה. מטורף שהיא הגיעה לאיטה קרה ושנפגשנו שוב במקרה. נפרדתי ממנה לבינתיים וקבענו לדבר מאוחר יותר. חברתי לירדן ואיה שישבו שם עם עוד חברות שלהן מהצבא ומשנת השירות. המלצר לא דיבר מילה באנגלית אך הבין לחלוטין מה אנחנו רצינו בעברית. התפריט בעברית וכולם ישראלים. אוף, עכשיו זה כבר ממש עיצבן אותי. פגשתי שם אפילו את אייל יונה מכפר ורדים. לאחר ההמבורגר עברנו לשבת בפאב לא רחוק, הזמנתי את איינה למקום והיא הצטרפה אלינו. היה ערב נחמד ואיינה ואני זכינו להשלים פערים. את הערב סיימנו בהליכה לאורך החוף החשוך וסירות הדייג שבמים.
למחרת נאלצתי להתארגן במהרה יחסית. לקפל ולארגן את כל הציוד ולצאת אל טרמינל האוטובוסים. עליי להגיע במהרה לסלבדור מאחר שבערב הזמנתי כרטיס אוטובוס היוצא משם לרסיפה. דרך לא קצרה לסלבדור, שלצורך ההגעה לשם עליי לקחת אוטובוס מאיטה קרה לעיירה בום דיספאצ׳ו. הצלחתי להגיע לאוטובוס ממש בדקה ה-90 וגם זה לאחר שנהג מונית רימה אותי שוב. באוטובוס היה בלאגן, ישבו במקום שלי וחום אימים. אך לבסוף הכל הסתדר. יצאתי מאיטה קרה והתחלתי את המסע הארוך צפונה לרסיפה.

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